Cross Country Tour – Day 23

20 September 2016

I’m not sure what happened to me yesterday but I was done in. Instead of hiking 4.6 miles into Glen camp at Point Reyes National Seashore, I camped at Tomales Bay Resort for the night. I splurged on the motel room, splurged on dinner at Saltwater Oyster Bar and didn’t get my $10 worth of camping site.

Whatever it was, I felt much better today and headed for Bear Valley Visitor Center where the trailhead for Glen camp begins. There were deer everywhere at the visitor center, totally unconcerned about us early morning hikers.

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Before I got to camp, I got up close and personal with a covey of quail. I’ll have to be wait until I get to my bird book to determine which species. They looked perfectly black with a cute top knot but they were in the shade and I may not have seen their markings.

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Another interesting discovery was a banana slug crawling across the trail. They are huge!

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Once I set up camp, I wanted to do a little more hiking so I set out for Wildcat camp 2.5 miles away and on the beach. In particular, I wanted to walk to Alamere falls just down the beach from Wildcat. I just about made it when the fog started rolling in and I decided there wouldn’t be much to see in pea soup fog so I started back.

On the way to Wildcat, I stopped to photograph some wildflower and got an intense burning sensation in my left leg, just below the knee. I had knelt on a stinging nettle. I had forgotten how intense the pain could be. As I write this, it still burns.

All in all, it was 7.19 miles but 4.6 was with a pack with an elevation gain of 1156 feet and a maximum elevation of 1270 feet. I’m a tired puppy.

So far, there is only a young couple in campsite 5. They walked back from Alamere falls and told me the fog was ok this morning but had begun to roll in during the afternoon.

I think dinner tonight will be beef stroganoff. I’ll pack out tomorrow morning and head to Whiskeytown/Mount Shasta National Recreational Area.

Later in the afternoon a single hiker came into site #3 and we’ve had some good conversation. He’s pretty hard core. He did 13 miles today and will do 20 tomorrow. Even later, a threesome came in and pitched camp next to me at site 10. At least the hard core guy is older. The threesome is two guys and a girl probably in their 20’s. They have a lot of energy. Hope they sleep some tonight.

Cross Country Tour – Day 22

19 September 2016

I must be getting old.  I was scheduled to hike into a campsite at Pt. Reyes National Seashore (4.7 miles) and camp two nights.  When I got the permit the ranger suggested now would be the time to see the Pt. Reyes lighthouse since it closed at 4:30 pm today and it would not be open Tuesday or Wednesday.  I agreed since it was on my agenda, and headed out.

Getting to Point Reyes National Seashore took me over the Golden Gate Bridge, by Muir Woods, and Stinson Beach over twisty, curvy, steep roads.  I managed to probably average 40 miles an hour.  Stay with me, I’m building up to something.

Lighthouse from atop the steps.
Lighthouse from atop the steps.

To get to the light house from Bear Valley Visitor Center where I registered took 45 minutes on the same curvy, twisty type roads.  Once you parked, it was 0.4 miles to the steps leading to the lighthouse.  They go down, down, down for about the depth of a 30 story building.  The view were amazing and you could hear the surf pounding the rocks.

Steps equivalent to a 30 story building.
Steps equivalent to a 30 story building.

Eventually, I had to climb the steps.  I did ok so I guess all that hiking paid off – that and I was not at 7,000 feet elevation.  There was another short hike to another point from the parking lot.

I had lunch overlooking the Pacidic Ocean and watched whales spouting in the distance.
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Look closely and you can see a whale spout.
Look closely and you can see a whale spout.

From there, I drove 2.2 miles (twisty, curvy) to the parking lot for Chimney Rock and Elephant Seal Overlook.  The hike out to Chimney Rock was 0.9 miles and you had great vistas of the Pacific and more whales spouting.

At Chimney Rock Overlook.
At Chimney Rock Overlook.

After I returned to the parking lot, I took the Elephant Seal Overlook trail but didn’t see any elephant seals, but I did hear their bellows.  There were plenty of otters playing in the water and a group had gathered to watch them and debate whether they were sea otters or river otters.  No consensus was reached.

Otters frolicking in Drakes Bay.
Otters frolicking in Drakes Bay.

As I got back in the jeep to head back to Bear Valley Visitor Center and the trail head for my campsite, I decided I just wasn’t up to a 4.7 mile hike with pack.  I figure I had already done over 3 miles this afternoon.  I’ve already concluded my limit is around 6 miles a day with pack.  So, having come up with enough excuses, I decided to camp in a motel room.

I checked into the Tomales Bay Resort for a room for the night.  I’m already thinking I may just head north tomorrow and perhaps put off camping for a while to spend an extra day at the Columbia River Gorge.  I’ll keep you posted, regardless.

Cross Country Tour- Day 21

18 September 2016

Dream of the Red Chamber was a bust. I left at intermission. I kept trying to doze off during the performance and I thought the first act would never end. It probably  didn’t help that San Francisco decided to get its first day of summer today. It’s been quite warm, more typical for this time of year. I may have to take the blanket off the bed tonight and use a fan.

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I’ve enjoyed the city but have a hankering to get away from the noise for a while. However, I hear they have particularly aggressive raccoons at Pt. Reyes who won’t take no for an answer.

Cross Country Tour – Day 20

17 September 2016

The day started out cold and foggy in San Franciso but by noon, the fog dissipated and it started to warm up. September in San Francisco is usually hot, but my friend Wade, who is a longtime resident of the city, said this has been a long, cold, foggy summer.

Usually, when I’m in town, I buy either a three day or week MUNI pass which allows me on all city transit, including the cable cars and transfers.  However, since my travels in the city will be mostly back and forth to the opera house, it was cheaper to buy a clipper card and put a few dollars on it.  That’s one of main things I like about San Francisco – excellent public transportation.

Around noon, I grabbed the J line near the Parker House and got off at the Powell Street Station for a quick walk to Neiman Marcus at Union Square for lunch at the Rotunda with my friend Wade.  I last saw him in Fort Lauderdale a few months ago and he kindly treated me to lunch at the Rotunda. We had a grand time talking old friends, trips, and such and before we knew it, we had spent about 2 1/2 hours at a prime window seat overlooking Union Square where they had a Korean Festival going on.  NM, to their credit, didn’t try to rush us.

I rode the MUNI back to the Parker House and relaxed a little, had some wine and munchies at their wine social and then headed to the War Memorial for the night’s opera, André Chénier which was excellent! The opera is by Umberto Giordano and is not often performed anywhere.  It was first performed in San Francisco in 1923 and has only been on the stage here 11 times in the entire history of the opera house.  Four performers stood out: George Gagnidze as Carlo Gérard, Anna Pirozzi as Maddalena di Coigny, Yanghoon Lee as André Chénier, and J’Nai Bridges as Bersi.  Gagnidze is from Tbilsi, Georgia; Pirrozi from Naples; Italy, Lee from Seoul, Korea; and Bridges from Lakewood, Washington so it was quite the international, star-studded cast. 
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War Memorial Opera House, San Francisco.
War Memorial Opera House, San Francisco.

The opera is based on a real person (Chénier) during the French Revolution. The stage design was over the top along with period costuming. It was four acts with one intermission.  The opera has its detractors but I thoroughly enjoyed it.

Today, I intend to do a little prepacking for tomorrow’s trip to Pt. Reyes National Seashore and then I have a 2 pm opera, Dream of the Red Chamber, based on a classic of Chinese literature and co-created by the San Francisco Opera for its world premier.

After leaving San Francisco, I have five nights of tent camping: two at Point Reyes where I have to backpack in to the site, one enroute to Crater Lake at Whiskeytown, CA and two at Crater Lake where the overnight temperature was 35F. Stay tuned!

Cross Country Tour- Day 19

16 September 2016

 

I opted to head straight to San Francisco instead of a side trip to Pinnacles National Park.  I needed a haircut and needed to wash clothes and needed a martini.  I can use the excuse of another trip out west to visit the Pinnacles.

It was a little over four hours to reach San Francisco and amazingly the traffic wasn’t too bad.  I usually get held up at the Oakland Bay Bridge because of toll lanes but I breezed through today.

I checked in at the Parker Guest House, my usual haunt while in San Francisco and immediately headed for a haircut.  I was so relieved to get the fuzz off, I stopped into Twin Peaks for my obligatory martini.

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Once I got back to the room, I gathered dirty clothes and headed to the laundromat. An hour later and I was good to go.  As I sit here writing this, I’m in the garden of the Parker House with a cup of coffee, sitting in the shade and contemplating dinner later tonight.

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Tomorrow, I have lunch with my good friend Wade at the Rotunda, Neiman Marcus downtown.  Later that night, I have the first of two operas, Andrea Chenier.

Wine social at the Parker begins at 5:30 pm!

Cross Country Tour – Day 18

15 September 2016
After going to bed last night a little after 8 pm, I woke at 4:30 am. I was dressed and ready to go by 6 am and walked to the jeep to find I had left the hatch open last night. Lights on, etc. No bears were interested in the dehydrated food. I think that tells me something.

I decided to start the day with Sequoia National Park, a beautiful, harrowing 27 mile drive up and down. Sequoia has more redwoods than King’s Canyon, at least to my eye, and they are the largest I’ve seen. I thought the ones in Yosemite were large, but these are gigantic. By the way, the temperature was 43F this morning at Grant Village but 32F in Sequoia.

My idea was to stop at the visitor center and then have breakfast. The center was open but not the “restaurant”. After a short talk with the ranger, I decided to start with General Sherman’s tree, the most massive tree in the U.S. and probably the world. Each year it adds enough growth for one mature oak tree. It was a downhill walk of 0.5 miles and you know the trouble with that. It was 0.5 miles back up hill. I’ve learned to rest frequently!

Me and the general.
Me and the general.

My next stop in Sequoia was Moro Rock, an impressive climb of stairs and steps (mostly in concrete) with an elevation of over 6,700 feet at the top with clear vistas of neighboring mountain ranges and the valley below. It was absolutely stunning. At least on this hike, it was downhill on the way back. The hike up and down is not for the faint hearted or for those afraid of heights.

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On the way to Moro Rock.
On the way to Moro Rock.

The 400 steps to the top of Moro Rock.
The 400 steps to the top of Moro Rock.
Atop Moro Rock.
Atop Moro Rock.

My last hike of Sequoia was a 1.3 mile loop to Crescent Meadow. It was mostly level with massive redwoods and plenty of shade. Like all of the hikes so far, including the two just mentioned, my GPS always reads a longer distance. Since this determined by satellite with numerous data points, I think the GPS is probably more accurate. I suspect the park service measured the trails years ago with the old wheel device.

I stopped for lunch at the so called restaurant at the Sequoia visitor center which was really just a grill. I had a hamburger and fries – that seems to be both parks’ specialties. Then came the 27 mile return trip to King’s Canyon and a short drive to Grant’s Grove to see the General Grant tree. It is supposedly the second largest tree, after the General Sherman. Since Sherman had the bigger tree named after him, I wonder if it was the politics of the time.

When I get up tomorrow, I need to decide whether or not to stop at Pinnacles National Park on the way to San Francisco. It would add a minimum of four hours to a four hour drive to San Francisco. I figure if I sleep late tomorrow, I’ll head straight to San Francisco. If I get up early, I’ll squeeze in the pinnacles.

Cross Country Tour – Day 17

14 September 2016

The morning dawned around 6 am with much cooler temperatures. The jeep recorded 43 F and I was glad I had put a jacket in the tent with me over night. I broke camp fairly quickly and was on the road again by 7:15 am. I packed camp with a cayote serenade.

Jumbo Rocks campsite has Joshua Trees, but as I drove through the park to exit the other side, I got a feel for how many are in the park. Some areas of the park it was the dominantly form of vegetation and several were absolutely huge. Like our palm trees in Florida, the Joshua Tree is a monocot – like grasses, just bigger and thicker. The Joshua Tree is related to the agave or closer to home, our yucca.

On the way out I saw a lone cayote near the side of the road foraging. I stopped the car but before I had gotten my camera out and focused, he had wandered away.

The jeep GPS guided me to I-10 and the outskirts of Los Angeles. The reason, I suspect, is it is currently coded for the quickest route. You can change it to scenic route but with these seven plus hour drives I opted for quickest. Well, the LA route was not the quickest. You were in stop and go traffic through most of the interstate by pass. Once clear of LA, it was much faster.

The scenery north of LA is pretty spectacular. Huge, rolling hills kept the transfer trucks at bay and you could pass them relatively easy. California has a law that if you are an auto towing a trailer, the maximum speed for you is 55 mph. No one does 55 in California so I couldn’t imagine trying to tow something on California freeways.

The road next led more inland and I passed through Bakersfield as I headed northeast. I was amazed by the number and size of feed lots in this flat area. It looks like your steaks come from the Bakersfield area.
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I soon left the flat area and started to climb. Again, the scenery was magnificent as I rose to 6,000 plus feet with nothing but “S” curves and hairpin curves with sheer drop offs on the sides with only an occasional guard rail.

I reached Grant Village around 3:00 pm and checked in at the Muir Lodge (main check in for the park no matter where you stay) and got my cabin. It’s a duplex cabin with my own bath. Tucked away are other cabins and tent cabins. I suspect the tent cabins have heat and they have shared showers but if they don’t have heat, I bet it got cold in them last night. I had to turn the heat on twice last night in the cabin. Unfortunately, the thermostat doesn’t work but at least I have off and on heat.

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Dinner last night was a hamburger with mac and cheese at their food truck. The restaurant that normally serves guests has been demolished and they are constructing a new one from scratch. In addition, I bought a few snacks at the park “market”.

I was asleep by 8:15 pm with plans to visit the General Sherman and General Grant sequoias tomorrow.

Cross Country Tour – Day 16

13 September 2016

I went to bed very early last night – 8:45 pm – and slept very well. I awoke at 4:30 am and made the dawn patrol at the rim, then decided to splurge with breakfast at the El Tovar. It was ok but nothing to blog about.

Interestingly, I was seated next to a couple from Meridian, Mississippi, my birthplace. They were nice but Mississippi State fans. We talked about Weidmann’s and a few other old landmarks in the city.

I was on the road by around 8:30 am and was surprised when I was routed off interstate 40 to old Route 66. Actually, I was very pleased. It was very poorly maintained and you wondered if the bridges over the washes would support you, but it lead me more or less into the park. I have to admit I was a little dubious of the GPS and the routing, but it got me to Joshua Tree National Park.

One interesting feature was on one side of the road where a bank was formed from construction of the road bed, people had written names, sayings, and provided memorials by spelling words with rocks. This went on for miles and miles and was quite fascinating. I passed several that looked like memorials to Vietnam vets and probably many were spelling out the name of some lost loved one. I was very tempted to stop and put Rocky in stones but decided to pass.

Route 66 dedication.
Route 66 dedication.

When I stopped at the Oasis Ranger Station, I asked about Black Rock (remember the movie with Spencer Tracy – Bad Day at Black Rock?) campground since I had read on their web site that was the only place for tent camping. It seems all of their sites accept tent camping and the ranger steered me to Jumbo Rocks campsite, a very good description, because the rocks are indeed jumbo. Apparently this was voted the number one place to see either sunrise or sunset by some magazine.

Now you see why it is called Jumbo Rocks!
Now you see why it is called Jumbo Rocks!

I found a space and since I get in the park free with my senior pass, the campsite only cost $7.50 instead of the $10 per night for tent camping. They have done an excellent job with the campsite. There are over 100 camping spots tucked away in the boulders with outdoor toilets every 50 yards or so. There is no water or electricity but plenty of RV space for those so inclined.

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Campsite at Jumbo Rocks.  Note the Joshua Tree in the background.
Campsite at Jumbo Rocks. Note the Joshua Tree in the background.

I noticed two Airstream trailers, one pulled by a jeep and one by a Range Rover. I’ve thought seriously about one of these once the house is paid off in two years.

There is a loop hike at Jumbo Rocks to Skull Rock, about 1.7 miles in length. With a few digressions, my walk was 2.6 miles in 1.4 hours. The total ascent on the hike was 307 feet at a maximum elevation of 4,487 feet. It was a neat trail, well maintained and marked and it did lead you to a massive rock that did indeed look like a skull.

Skull Rock.
Skull Rock.

After the sun set, I climbed to the top of one of the jumbo rocks to see if I could get some good star shots.  Unfortunately the moon was out and pretty much over shown the stars.

Moon Shadow.
Moon Shadow.

However, I did get one shot of the Big Dipper and I later noticed a meteor streaking across the shot.

The a Big Dipper with a meteor across the sky.
The a Big Dipper with a meteor across the sky.

Tomorrow is another 7 plus hour drive to King’s Canyon/Sequoia National Park. Redwoods, here I come.

Cross Country Tour – Day 15

12 September 2016

OK, I’m getting good at this. I did 9.73 miles today on the West Rim trail at Grand Canyon, South Rim.  Admittedly, it was a very easy trail and paved most of the way and the temperature stayed below 80 F and there was a great breeze.  Still, it was almost 10 miles at an elevation from 6,000 – 7,000 plus. I climbed to 1300 plus feet over the distance.

The night before had just gotten started when I woke at 10:45 pm and needed to pee. I used the second key card that was in the packet given. I had been warned not to put the key card near a credit card or electronic device.  This one had not been near either.  I completed my business and tried to re-enter the room.  No go.

I walked to the lodge office and had to wait while a man explained his problem. As near as I could make out, he had been hiking the Bright Angel Trail and had sprained his ankle.  Someone loaned him a pair of walking sticks and at 10:45 pm, he had just gotten to the rim.  He was leaving the walking sticks for the person who loaned them. He was exhausted.

He asked if there were any rooms available in the park.  The answer was one room but it was a 15 minute walk away with good ankles and the desk closed at 11 pm.  He then asked about a taxi to take him to the visitor’s center 5 miles away.  I started to tell them if he took the taxi, he could make the 11 pm desk closing and get a room but the desk clerk didn’t seem interested.  Apparently he parked his car at the visitor’s center and walked down the Bright Angel Trail without any gear!  The park website warns it is a dangerous hike and it has lead to several deaths.

In any case, I got my key card re-imaged and got back to my bed around 11:15 pm. I got up around 5:00am and was on the trail by 7:30 am.

Grand Canyon at dawn.
Grand Canyon at dawn.

For the most part, the west rim trail is paved. There is a section in the middle that is more typical of trails. It seemed every bend in the trail brought a more spectacular view.

Intrepid hiker on the precipice.
Intrepid hiker on the precipice.

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Near Powell Point I met an artist painting the scene, Dawn Sutherland. She’s part of this weeks art-in-the-park where artists from all over the U.S. Come to paint to raise money for the Grand Canyon Foundation.  We had an interesting conversation (I needed a rest) and we exchanged contact information.

Artist Dawn Sutherland.
Artist Dawn Sutherland.

The trail only had a few early birds at first and some regulars either passed me or I passed them along the way. One couple was taking the shuttle from overlook to overlook and I kept a running conversation with them.  Towards the end of the trail, a good many people were coming towards me, but I don’t think very many people hiked the entire trail. I rode the bus back from Hermit’s Rest and most got off and one off three stops back to the lodge, so they were using the shuttle on a regular basis.

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Hermit’s Rest is an interesting end-of-the-trail building designed by some famous architect with an amazingly large fireplace inside.  It has been converted into a gift shop and deli for the shuttle crowd but it still retains it’s charm.

Hermit's Rest at the end of the west rim trail.
Hermit’s Rest at the end of the west rim trail.
Fire place inside Hermit's Rest.
Fire place inside Hermit’s Rest.

This has been a very exciting day for me.  I did a long hike, saw beautiful country, met new people, and re-fell in love with the canyon.  Tomorrow I’m off to Joshua Tree National Park for one night en route to Kings’s Canyon/Sequoia National Parks.  Any one up for scheduling a white water rafting trip down the Colorado?

Cross Country Tour – Day 14

11 September 2016

No ghosts last night. I’m probably not creative enough. I awoke at 5 am and packed the jeep.  I then showered, shaved, looked around one more time for Bynner and then headed to breakfast.

The menu for today was:

– artichoke frittata

– apple chicken sausage

– tomato basil salad

– cheddar herb scones

– pear spinach ginger smoothie.

It was difficult but I forced myself to eat everything!

The trip to the Grand Canyon was uneventful except for the large number of transfer trucks on the road.  Fortunately it was four lane all the way except for two short construction sections.

Selfie on the rim.
Selfie on the rim.

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Sunset over the Grand Canyon, south rim.
Sunset over the Grand Canyon, south rim.

I foolishly thought that September might see fewer people at the south rim.  The place is packed.  I almost didn’t find a place to park and when I checked in, the desk suggested I not move the jeep or try for anything closer to the room. I’m staying in Bright Angel Lodge.

Bright Angel Lodge
Bright Angel Lodge

The room is 40’s primitive with a sink in the room with shared toilets and showers.  That doesn’t bother me since that’s how I grew up.  The room rate is the most reasonable in the park.

Tomorrow, I intend to do a day hike along the rim.  I can go as far as 8 miles along the rim in one direction and if I get tired, simply catch the park bus back to the room.

El Tovar Lodge, south rim.
El Tovar Lodge, south rim.
El Tovar Dining Room.
El Tovar Dining Room.

I’m really excited about dinner at El Tovar tonight at 6 pm.  I tried to get a room here but that’s virtually impossible.  Most tour groups rent en masse and there are few individual rooms available and they sell out the first week available.

El Tovar Bar.
El Tovar Bar.

Dinner was El Tovar salad and strip steak with beef from Arizona.  For desert I had a ten year old tawny port. I won’t tell you how much it cost.