Cross Country Trip – Day 71

29 May 2018

Damn birds!  They roused me at 4:30 am.  I was on the road by 6:30 and in Bar Harbor by 4:30 pm.  I can tell you that upstate New York, Vermont and New Hampshire need to spend some money on their roads.

I programmed the gps to omit toll roads and it took me the back roads through back country, small towns, hamlets, and villages.  I didn’t know they still called places hamlets and villages but it’s in their name.  

Norman Rockwell country is very much alive and well.  Sometimes I think I could see myself in one of these little hamlets but then again, I think I would go more stir crazy than I already am in Fort Lauderdale.

I’m staying at the Yellow House B&B about 300 feet from the harbor in Bar Harbor.  Why it’s called the Yellow House, I have no idea.  

Yellow House Bed & Breakfast – Bar Harbor, Maine

I’m on the ground floor with my own little private porch.  The bedroom is huge – I think it must have been the dinning room at one time and the bath is equally large.

Jack’s Room at Yellow House. Haven’t found Jack yet.

Chris was sitting on the front porch and greeted me as I drove up.  After a brief introduction to the inn, and a brief survey of the town, places to eat, and trolleys to take, I decided to do a walk-about.  That’s basically Main Street.  

I found a Chris recommended restaurant called Galyn’s and had their carrot-ginger soup and a $20 lobster roll.  To be honest, Kelly’s Landing in Fort Lauderdale is better and much cheaper.  However, I was seated on the glass enclosed patio and had a perfect view of the harbor.

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Galyn’s on Main Street, Bar Harbor, Maine

I then decided to walk the 1/2 mile shore path that traces the shoreline of the harbor.  All the rich muckity mucks  who own property on the shore agreed to allow the path to be made for tourisms’ sake.  

Bar Harbor from the Shore Path

I confess to walking down to the rocks below and looking for rockweed – the genus Fucus about which I taught for 34 years.  I loved this particular alga and got off on talking about how it reproduced based on the tides of the harbor.  I also had students come back from trips to Maine and tell me how it was indeed very slippery when wet.  It secretes a slime coat over the surface to protect it from the sun’s rays and desiccation at low tide. For the first time in my life I got to see it in its natural habitat.  I take my joys where I can get them.  

The darker material is rockweed attached to the rocks at low tide.
Rockweed – the genus Fucus. It has air bladders that hold it up in the water during high tide. At low tide, it collapses on the rocks and the reproductive structures are extruded. When the tide comes in, the sperm are released and swim in the water to fertilize the eggs.

I’m debating whether to take the Chris recommended 2 1/2 hour trolley trip of Acadia for $40.  I probably will.  I’m not sure I want to do a lot of hiking in this park but I do have my eye on one or two short hikes.  I figure the trolley trip may be a good way to get an overview for the first day and then hike the second day.  Then again, I may just chuck the trolley tour and do the hiking the first day.  

Bar Harbor harbor

Apparently the weekend was a massive tourist splurge.  Most people have now left the island and it is much quieter now.  I think I passed have the Memorial Day tourist trade as I was coming in and they were on their way out.  

Early to bed tonight because of the damn birds!

Cross Country Trip – Day 70

28 May 2018

First, a salute to all us veterans!  

OK, I lied, they have WiFi.  I didn’t ask earlier and after I returned from dinner, I found out they do have it.  

Today was a banner day.  I checked two bucket list items off: Niagara Falls and the Adirondacks.  

I was directed by gps to shuffle off to Buffalo.  I had no intention to go to Niagara Falls but it is only 20 miles out of Buffalo and I decided it was too close not to go.  The same thing happened the first time I visited the Grand Canyon.  I had no intention of visiting the Grand Canyon  but at a conference in Scotsdale, I determined it was stupid not to go.

There’s a pot of gold at the end – the only problem is you have to go by barrel.

When you get to the city of Niagara Falls, you are guided to the state park.  Appearances can be deceiving.  Finding a parking space is tough.  Once you are close enough to the falls, you are directed towards a money making garage at $20 a car.  I found street parking for $3.  

Niagara Falls (American falls) and Maid of the Mist

Everything is well done.  It no longer looks like the movie version Niagara with Marylin Monroe, Jean Peters and Joseph Cotten. I love that old movie.  Instead, everything is up to date and ready to take your money.  

Maid of the Mist

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To be honest, I expected them to be a little higher than they were.  Still, I wouldn’t want to go over them in a barrel. 

The drive up to and through the Adirondacks was great.  I passed places that looked like they could have been the set for Mr. Blandings Builds His Dream House with Cary Grand and Myrna Loy.  I also saw places that looked like they could have filmed Dirty Dancing.

The Adirondacks have fascinated me since my days as a Boy Scout at Camp Kickapoo outside Clinton, Mississippi.  They had a secluded area in the camp for special occasions called the Adirondack shack.  It was a simple three sided shed for camping.  

Then, there was The Last of the Mohicans by James Fenimore Cooper. 

Later, I was introduced to Adirondack chairs.  Much of the area does remind me of parts of the Smokeys as well as areas of Camp Kickapoo.  Let’s just say I am an avid “tree eater.”  

I pulled in to the Alpine Homestead around 5:15 pm and met Barry and Peggy, the owners.  I’m in the Tannery room with a king bed.  My private bath is down the hall.  There is no breakfast with the B&B but that’s OK since I need an early start tomorrow for Bar Harbor.  It’s a 9 hour drive.  

Alpine Homstead B&B – owners Peggy and Barry
Tannery Room at Alpine Homstead B&B – private bath down the hall.

Again, I’m amazed at the accuracy of the gps.  It’s self corrects along the way, but eerily, it seems to provide an accurate estimate as you begin even though it cannot predict the stops.  Perhaps it has learned my bathroom breaks.

Cross Country Trip – Day 69

27 May 2018

This has to be the quietest motel I’ve ever stayed in.  I’m not sure if it is because I am on the top floor (3rd) or if there aren’t that many people on the top floor, or if it is extremely well insulated.  In any case, I am much appreciative.  I’ve gotten two solids nights of sleep because of it.

The day started out foggy and it progressed to looking like it would rain any minute.  By the time I made it to the park and started to load my pack, the sun had come out and it was a beautiful day for hiking. 

Ledges Loop Trail

I think I mentioned in a previous post I wanted to hike the Ledges.  This is an area of the park that overlooks the valley floor and it has a loop of a trail that meanders along overlooks.  

Ledges Loop Trail

It is an easy trail to hike (the loop is around 2.2 miles, depending upon who you believe or which sign you believe) and you can veer off the loop like I did and hike the 2.2 mile loop called Pine Grove.  

Ledges Loop Trail

The trail starts from a parking lot next to the Ledges Shelter.  From there, it descends onto the forest floor and then goes back up to the overlook.  Neither the descent nor ascent is terribly steep.  This is a very walkable trail.  

Ledges Loop Trail

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Ledges Loop Trail

I particularly wanted to walk this trail as it was recommended for wildflowers.  It was not to disappoint.  I suppose the average person would not think a lot in bloom, but if you know what to look for, there was plenty of stuff to photograph in bloom.

Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum (L.) Schott)

As I progressed through the hike, I kept hearing feet behind me.  This seems to be a very popular running trail.  I probably had about 20 runners either pass me or meet me on the trail, and some I met or passed twice.  

It’s also a popular dog walking trail.  Thankfully, everyone had their pets on leash.  

Black Fox Squirrel. Both the Eastern Squirrel and Fox Squirrel have black varieties.

I finished up both trails and was done by 12:30 pm.  I debated whether to hike some more but my ankle suggested it was time to call it a day.  

I was back at the motel by 1:30 pm after a quick lunch at McDonald’s.  I hoped into the shower and removed some trail grime.  For some reason, the trail was muddy and I got more than a little on my pants and me.  

Tomorrow, I head for Olmsteadville, New York for a one night stay at bed and breakfast called Alpine Homestead.  From there, I head to Acadia National Park.  The drive to Olmsteadville is around 9 hours with about the same drive into Bar Harbor.

Cross Country Trip – Day 68

26 May 2018

I have very mixed feelings about Cuyahoga Valley National Park.  On the one hand, when you actually get to a trail and walk it, it’s quite. beautiful, tranquil, and much like the area in and around Tishomingo State Park in northeast Mississippi where I did my graduate work.

The air was perfumed with the scent of Black Locust.  It’s the largest stand of these trees I’ve seen and they were all in bloom at once.

Black Locus (Robinia pseudoacacia L.)

Then there is the mishmash of towns and private land intersecting and interweaving the park.  There’s Garfield Heights, Sagamore Hills, Bedford, Macedonia, Northfield Center, Cuyahoga Falls, and Richfield.  I think I passed through every one of these communities while trying to find bits and pieces of the park scattered among them.

Add to that the very touristy train through the park (a fake engine pulls Pullman’s through the park albeit pushed by diesels) and you have ready made traffic jams along a major artery of the park.  

When I did get to get on a trail, it was great.  I got some great wildflower shots and got to see some interesting waterfalls.  

My first stop was the visitor center.  Or I tried to stop at the visitor center.  The website says it is open – it is not – it is under renovation.  I did find a temporary visitor center (not labeled so as you could tell – just a building sitting off the side of the road.  I picked up a map and The Valley Guide (each park names their guide).  

There was a parking lot for the train and it was almost filled.  I would suspect this is one of the busiest parks in the National Park Service.  There were park personnel, police, and volunteers all directing traffic and there was a huge concession area for while you waited for the train. 

My first hiking stop was Brandywine Falls.  I did the short 0.5 mile hike down to the falls which was a mostly boardwalk and steps down.  After that, I decided to do the 1.4 mile loop called Brandywine Gorge which takes you by the falls again.  It was a great trail and I enjoyed it tremendously.
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Brandywine Falls

Steps to Brandywine Falls

Next up was Blue Hen Falls.  The sign points you to a parking lot (already full by mid-morning) which is actually the overflow for the falls parking lot across the road (and unmarked).  I found a place down the hill from the falls to park the jeep, walked back to the parking lot and walked a short section of trail (unmarked) that turned out to not be the trail to the falls.  

Blue Hen Falls

Backtracking along the road, I finally noticed the across-the-road drive that led to the falls.  It was a 0.5 mile roundtrip to a very attractive little falls.  I’m not sure why it is called Blue Hen, but there were more people there and on the trail than could have possibly parked in one of four locations near the falls.  I have no idea from where those people came.

Lastly, I decided to head to Bridal Veil Falls – listed as a falls within the park but is actually a Cleveland MetroPark.  The park suggests the best time to visit is after a rain storm but I didn’t have time to wait for one, so I headed to see it anyway.  Once you park, you again wonder where is the trail?  It is across the road from the parking lot.  These were not spectacular falls but were attractive enough for the short 0.5 mile round trip hike.  

Bridal Veil Falls

With the loop, the falls, and incidental walking, I think I must have made 3 1/2 miles today.  I noticed my ankle warning me so I called it quits and headed back to the comfort of the Comfort Inn in Independence.  

There is a trail I would like to hike tomorrow (2.2 miles) called The Ledges with some spectacular overlooks of the valley below.  It is also supposed to be excellent for wildflowers.  

Cross Country Trip – Day 67

25 May 2018

Although the trip distance was short, major portions of the interstate 480 was “under construction” (albeit without any workers) and the speed limit was 50 mph.  People really hated me on that drive since I drove the speed limit.  I had the last laugh since OHP was pulling people over right and left.  Still it only took me about 5 1/2 hours to make it to Independence, Ohio.  I was originally scheduled for a Choice hotel in Akron but they contacted me and said the hotel was no longer participating in the Choice program.  The next closest to Cuyahoga Valley National Park was a Comfort Inn in Independence.  

I checked in around 2:45 pm and even though check in was at 4 pm, they gave me a room on the third floor for the next three nights.  

From there, it was wash clothes (again) and the desk clerk gave me directions to the nearest Laundromat, some 1.5 miles down the road I drove in on.  I got the laundry done and then looked up the nearest pressure car wash.  It was just down the road from the laundromat and so I spent the next hour trying to get the dried, dead bugs off the front of the jeep and the cargo box.  

The problem was the pressure wash was $2.50 for 4 minutes.  Four minutes is barely enough time to soap the vehicle much less scrub any bugs.  Believe me, it took some scrubbing.  I think I had to renew five times to get the bugs off.  It seems that Michigan has a particularly nasty little bug that glues itself even more tightly than our beloved Florida lovebugs.  
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I ran out of quarters, then ran out of dollar bills and then had to go around begging for change for a $20.  Even though there was a person on site, they couldn’t give change since they didn’t have access to the computer.  

Alls well that ends well.  The jeep looks semi-sparkling and I feel better that I don’t have a layer of dead bugs all over the place.  Of course, NPR news announced a Chrysler recall that includes the Jeep Grand Cherokee for my year for the cruise control – the single feature I use most on the jeep.  It apparently will stick on some vehicles and gives the feeling of a run-away jeep.  Mine has worked perfectly.  Even though they recommend not to use it, I’ll continue to do so until I can get it in for the recall. It’s a software update, so I may be able to do it through UConnect.  

The last two days have been good for my ankle.  I’ll probably only do short hikes tomorrow to continue to allow it to recuperate.  

To my Florida family, what gives?  I leave you alone for a couple of months and you go and have the first named storm of the season before the season starts.  That’s not good.  What are you trying to do – welcome me back with a hurricane?

Cross Country Trip – Day 66

24 May 2018

I have landed smack dab in the middle of middle America.  Saugatauck is what the rest of America would like to be: manicured lawns, picket fences, well maintained roads, a waterfront, plenty of business.  I can certainly understand the attraction of the place.  I’ve heard Chinese and German today along with midwest and southern. 

The only problem is it is a little too, too.  It’s a great place to visit but I’m sure the tourist trade would get very, very old, very very quick.  I will admit I took the entire day to myself and pampered myself.  I was physically tired.  Not tired of the trip, just tired.  I needed it.

I started the day with the breakfast provided by the B&B which was a fresh fruit medley of pineapple, grapes, blueberries, and strawberries.  In addition, they had freshly made cheese and jam with crackers. This came with coffee, orange juice and milk if you wanted cereal.  There was also pumpkin bread. muffins.  I pigged out.  

Next up was a 90 minute massage by Steve of Steve’s Massage.  I asked for a deep tissue and it was almost a deep tissue but it certainly was relaxing.  He came to the cottage and set up right in front of the fire place.  Several times I almost dozed off.  Steve was very good at finding the individual muscles and working them.  

For lunch, I took a page from Michel and Nancy and had yellow perch at Wally’s.  They are considered famous for their perch and I have to agree it was pretty damn good.  It came with French fries and some unpronounceable beer.  

Wally’s famous yellow perch!

I walked around downtown (old town) and the shops are very upscale.  They, of course, sell t-shirts but there are a lot of high end goods also on the shelves.  For what I’m paying for the cottage ($277/night) you can tell they have the more well-to-do in their sights.  Unfortunately, I’m not well-to-do so the only sale made to me today was ice cream.
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I do admit to wanting to spend the rest of my retirement money on a couple of shirts in a store right next to the B&B but managed to stay out of it today.  They are Italian made and beautiful and would fit right in in South Florida.

Dinner was recommended by Jonathan at the B&B – The Southerner.  He says he eats there most nights when he dines out.  They are famous for their fried chicken – it won second place in the “Best of the West” contest.  I thought it pretty good -much better than most, but I still prefer my own recipe from Mom: flour, salt, pepper, and Crisco.  Slow cook with a lid until almost done and then remove the lid and up the temperature to brown it off.  

The Southerner – famous for their fried chicken

Last night, I took advantage of the whirlpool in the room.  It took a little while to figure out how to turn it on, but the hot water and circulation helped my ankle.  Tonight, it’ll just be a regular shower – I hate wasting water – you have to cover the jets before you turn it on and that’s a lot of water for one person.

The weather has been perfect.  Low 70’s in the day and upper 50’s at night.  You would hardly know this place gets cold in the winter.  

For some reason, I didn’t sleep well.  There is a little musty smell in the cottage and that and my tiredness caught up with me.  I went to bed around 11 pm and waked at 4 am.  I read a little and went back to sleep at 5 am and finally got up around 7am.  I’ll probably sleep well tonight.

It’s a short drive (4 1/2 hours) to Cuyahoga National Park near Akron, Ohio tomorrow.  It’s a step down in accommodations – the Comfort Inn in Akron.  

Cross Country Trip – Day 65

23 May 2018

For the first time on this trip, I don’t have to be anywhere tomorrow.  There are no scheduled hikes, no unscheduled hikes, just plain ole relax.  I happen to be in a place that might be ideal – Saugatuck.

Downtown Saugatuck

This town has been recommended to me many times by many people, but especially by Michel and Nancy, who, like me, came down from Isle Royale for a visit.  It’s a charming town just on the verge of being too touristy but not quite.  It reminds me a little bit of a clean Key West before the box stores came in.  

Saugatuck Village Hall
Harbor at Saugatuck – Lake Michigan

I pulled into town at 4:30 pm after a 10 hour drive from Hancock, Michigan.  The most exciting thing about the trip was to cross the Mackinac Bridge from the upper peninsula to the lower peninsula.  It opened in 1957 and I remember reading about it in Time and Life when I was in college at Ole Miss.  It’s fascinated me ever since.  It is currently the fifth longest suspension bridge in the world at 8, 614 feet. 

Crossing the Mackinac Bridge

I was a little worried as I approached the bridge as fog was coming off Lake Michigan.  However, when I got to the span, things cleared up quickly.  The toll is $4 for a car with extra for extra axles.  That’s cheap enough.  
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I checked into the Hidden Garden Bed & Breakfast which is about three blocks from the lakeshore.  It’s a beautiful B&B with a fireplace, king bed, and kitchen with breakfast already in the frig for tomorrow morning.  Jonathan met me at the registration and gave me a quick run down on the town and things to see.  

Tuscany Cottage at Hidden Gardens B&B
Sleep tight!
Living room and fireplace at Tuscany Cottage/Hidden Gardens

Actually, my plan is to do as little as possible for the next two nights.  I had dinner at Phil’s about 4 doors down from the B&B and had a so-so gumbo but an outstanding appetizer of scallops.  Actually, they compare very favorably to those I’ve had in some of the best restaurants in Key West.  Again, the Key West comparison.

Phil’s Bar & Grille – I recommend the scallops appetizer!

I kind of need the down time here.  Even though the Isle Royale trip did not turn out to be the difficult experience I anticipated, it did take its toll emotionally getting there and getting back.  

I’ll try to post a few photos tomorrow of what very little I intend to do in Saugatuck.  There are lots of ice cream and chocolatiers so you may be looking at several of those type photos.

Cross Country Trip – Day 64

22 May 2018

It was cold last night but with my 20F bag, long johns, air mattress and foam pad, I stayed pretty toasty. I was up by 6 am and decided to hike a ways on the Huginin Trail. It’s a 9.4 mile loop and I knew I wouldn’t do the whole loop.  

Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense L.)

This is a very pretty trail where you cross over Washington Creek and walk through a fir forest. After about a mile, my ankle started to ache and I decided to turn back.  I was carrying the big pack with the water full in the hydration system plus two Nalgene bottles, also full.  Water weighs a ton!

Skunk Cabbage (Symlocarpus foetidus (L.) Nutt.)

The result of turning back around 9 am was I had plenty of time to kill before our 5 pm flight back to Hancock.  I rewalked part of the nature trail after my ankle quit throbbing, dozed a little on the picnic table, had lunch (more Pringles, another Pepsi and another Snickers bar.  Always eat healthy, I say.  

Around 1:30 pm, two guys appeared at the picnic shelter where you are supposed to wait on the plane.  They were Joe and Tim who had just spent 5 nights in the backcountry hiking from the northeast end of the island to the southwest end of the island – according to their account 72 miles.  

Mergansers on Washington Harbor

Both could hardly walk.  They even spent one day covering  a20 mile stretch.  They are graduate students in business at the University of Michigan and are apparently best buddies.  After talking a while, they settled into an intense game of cribbage (portable board and all).  Tim was the expert and Joe was the learner.  

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Like a duck (Merganser) out of water!

During the game we talked hikes, national parks, gear, and any other thing that backpackers do.  I admire their ability to do 72 miles in five days.  Just before I left to go to the sea plane dock, they asked me to take a photo of them by the Windigo sign.  I was happy to since upon my arrival, the three ladies asked the same and then took a photo for me.

Welcome to Windigo – closest I came to a moose are their antlers at the base of the sign.

Tomás flew in right at 4:30 pm for a 5 pm departure.  We all four talked trips, experiences, and what not for the return flight.

As I mentioned in a previous post, this was the one about which I had the greatest anxiety.  It ended up being totally anxiety free.  I was able to find a camping space and the sea plane took off and landed right on time.  Isle Royale Sea Plane is a great company that serves this area and the Naples, Florida area.  I highly recommend them. 

This also signals the end of my camping experiences for the remainder of the trip.  Saugatuck is 2 nights at a bed and breakfast, Cuyahoga is a Comfort Inn, en route to Acadia is a B&B, Acadia is a B&B, en route to Shenandoah is Quality Suites, Shenandoah is a lodge, then two nights with my cousin Jimmie and Stephen, and then a B&B en route to home. 

I would have preferred camping more – not to mention the cost savings – but when some national parks don’t let you make reservations, you pay the price of a motel when the campground is full.  

The one thing I would do differently would be to ask for state park lists, Bureau of Land Management lists and U.S. Forest Service lists as a plan for when national parks don’t accept reservations.  Of course, there is no state park, BLM or USFS on Isle Royale so I had to take my chances anyway.

Hopefully, a good night of sleep before a 10 1/2 hour drive to Saugatuck!

Cross Country Trip – Day 63

21 May 2018

I set the alarm for 5:30 am but, of course, I was up before it went off. I needed to be at Isle Royale Seaplane base which was about a mile down the road from the Ramada Inn by 7:30 am. The first person to greet me was Ken, the pilot I talked to on Saturday. He was not flying (twisted ankle – seems to be a pattern here).  Instead, it was Tomás who actually lives in Naples. The company flies out of Naples in the winter and they’ve only been operational here for a week. Apparently there was ice at the landing site at Windigo last week. 

There were 3 other passengers, all female.  There were two significant other guys following them on the noon flight. One of the women is a high school teacher of special ed. All five are hiking the 30 mile  Feldtmann Lake Trail loop and camping out along the way. They were extremely nice and we all had great conversations. Their hike is the one I would have done except for scheduling problems and ankle problems. 

The take off and landing were perfectly smooth and Tomás was very informative along the way. He told us he started flying in 2012 so it’s surprising he’s flying commercial so quickly. He did an excellent job. The flight time was about 35 minutes. 

Tomás (on the right) at the dock at Isle Royale.

You check in with the ranger who was Valerie. Interestingly, the park service says their visitor center is not open until 25 May. Instead Valerie greeted us with a smile. I also found out you could have your propane gas shipped ahead.  That means I could be eating a hot meal tonight instead of granola.  

Valerie did a quick orientation and then we were off. I’m staying in shelter number 7. I was going to stay in shelter 3 and two hikers were just vacating it for me when I found I liked 7 better. 

Cabin Number 7 – Washington Creek Campground – Windigo, Isle Royale

The shelter is a three sided lean-to like structure with the fourth side screened in. My biggest worry was finding either a shelter or tent space at Washington Creek campsite. I didn’t need to worry. Valerie suggested to pitch the tent inside the shelter because of cold temperatures. It dropped below freezing last night and her biggest complaint from campers was the cold.  

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Tent inside the cabin – worked out great!

Once settled in, I decided to hike the Grace Creek Overlook Trail. The map sets it as 1.9 miles one way. At the overlook you get a nice view of Grace Creek below and Lake Superior on the horizon.  My gps clocked it at 4.2 and with hiking into and out of the campsite, I managed 5.2 miles. My ankle decided that was enough. 

Trail to Grace Creek Overlook – 4.2 miles round trip.
Grace Creek from Grace Creek Overlook – elevation 750 feet.
Lake Superior from Grace Creek Overlook – 750 feet above Superior.

The general store is semi-open. They have most anything you need food wise, but again, the park service said it wouldn’t be open until the 25th. 

I recovered enough by 3 pm to hike to the general store and purchase a can of  Pringles, a Snickers bar and a Pepsi. That invigorated me enough to hike the 1 mile nature trail. Exhaustingly, it’s 0.3 miles to the campsite, so every time you leave and comeback, you chalk up another 0.6 miles.  That adds up after a while. All total today was 7.4 miles. 

Nature Trail – 1.2 mile loop

On the hikes, and in the campsite is plenty of moose poop. I even saw young saplings where they had stripped the bark for food but no moose sightings. It’s calving time. It seems they all valve within a week or two of each other. Since the wolf population has nosedived on the island, the moose population has exploded. Last count was 2,400 meece. 

Cross Country Trip – Day 62

20 May 2018

Yesterday, after I checked into the Quality Inn in Ashland, Wisconsin, I thought I might better check with Isle Royale Seaplanes about Monday’s flight and my staying at their cabin on Sunday nite and Tuesday nite.  

It’s a good thing I did.  Ken, the pilot, answered the phone.  He couldn’t find the reservation software but we had a long talk about camping on the island and such.  Then he found I was indeed scheduled for a Monday morning flight at 8 am and a return flight on Tuesday at 5 pm.  I had it as a 4 pm flight but that could simply be the time zone change and how Apple’s calendar doesn’t seem to convert those times.  

He stated he had no idea about the cabin and would have Jon, the owner, contact me.  Jon emailed me that the cabin was no longer an option due to a sewerage problem.  He directed me to the Ramada Inn Waterfront in Hancock, 1.1 miles from the seaplane base.  He said they had a special rate of $89 for people using the seaplane. 

I went online and checked the place out.  The $89 isn’t special – it’s their normal rate.  In any case, the person at the desk reserved a room for me on Sunday night and Tuesday night.  I’m glad I decided to check!

By the way, the Quality Inn serves a real breakfast.  You can even get eggs to order.  Strangely, they did not serve or have available any meat on the menu.  Waffles, Pancakes, French Toast, eggs any style – just no bacon, sausage or ham.

The drive from Ashland to Hancock was short – 3 hours.  Along the way, I kept seeing something white blooming along side the road.  Finally, I stopped and looked.  It was the white trillium blooming in profusion along the hillsides that got afternoon sun.  I took a few quick shots with the camera and then noticed something growing among the trillium.  I was thrilled to see the dog-tooth violet.  I’ve always read about them but never seen them.  

Dogtoothed Violet (Erythronium americanum) shown as it naturally hangs the flower downward.
Dogtoothed Violet (Erythronium americanum) The flowers hang down so to get an image of the tepals and stamens, I had to hold the flower upside down.

After checking into the Ramada Inn, I went to the jeep and began packing for my overnight at Isle Royale.  My hope is to get a space at the Washington Creek Campground which is next to the Visitor Center.  Ken (the pilot) thought I should be able to get space, especially since the seaplane will beat the boats to the island.  

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There’s water at the campground but it may not be turned on as yet.  The park opens in April but they don’t announce their schedule for the summer on their web site.  They say there are limited services available.  We’ll see.  

After the packing, I decided to tour Hancock.  It didn’t take long.  It’s an old mining town on the Portage Ship Canal to Lake Superior.  I like the old buildings and it looks fairly prosperous although downtown is mostly restaurants.  

Bridge over the Portage Canal which separates Houghton (shown in the background) and Hancock, Michigan. The Portage Canal leads to Lake Superior.

Across the canal is the city of Houghton, Michigan.  It seems there may be a little rivalry between the two towns.  Houghton claims the title of birthplace of organized professional hockey.  Hancock has a city sign saying their youth groups won state championships in hockey – a little dig, I think.  

It goes a little further than that.  Once you cross the bridge from one town to the other, the bridge automatically routes into each others’ downtown area.  It’s like they insist you visit the town before you can go anywhere else on their road system.  

Even finding the Ramada Inn was difficult because of the way they route you from the bridge, into town.  Once in town, unless you know the cutoff, you are immediately routed back to the bridge.  It’s very confusing!

Tomorrow there will be no post unless there is a phone signal at Windigo Visitor Center, which I doubt. 

Here’s a sign I thought was cut in the Ramada Inn Lounge. In case you can’t read it, it says “Martinis! Helping People Lower Their Standards Since 1927!”

Sign in the lounge of the Ramada Inn Waterfront, Hancock, Michigan