Author: searcyf@mac.com

10 September 2016

Guess who is staying in the only haunted room of the guest house? The home, at one time, belonged to Witter Bynner, poet and writer, who at one time wrote under the penname Emanuel Morgan. The Shaman room, in which I am staying, was where he wrote and eventually died.

Dan, the co-owner just related two instances of people’s dreams in the room.  The first occurred when another published writer was staying in the room for two or three nights and on the last night dreamed there was a tall, dark figure that walked across the room when the ceiling opened up and the figure rose through the ceiling to the sky.  The published writer had been suffering from writer’s block for several years.  He got up and wrote for the next three hours. He related it to Dan and profusely thanked him for the dream freeing him of the block.

The second reporting was a middle aged daughter and elder mother who stayed three or four nights and on the last night the daughter was telling the mother of her dream of a tall, dark man walking across the room and sitting in a chair.  The mother, astounded, said she had the very same dream. The mother kept a journal and as they were packing up to leave, couldn’t find her journal.

They had previously bought a bottle of vodka and it was on the desk.  It begin to rock back and forth and bump into the wall behind the desk.  They originally thought earthquake but nothing else in the room was moving.  They checked the bottle and nothing appeared amiss.  They checked to see if the desk was level and there was the journal, directly under the vodka bottle.  Stay tuned!

For those of you who follow my itinerary, I had scheduled a massage through the inn with Steven Borges.  Somehow, we got our signals crossed and instead of a 10 am deep tissue massage yesterday, I had the massage today at 11:30 am.  I drove to his studio and he found I was a little tense.  After 75 minutes, as stated, I was putty. You do get a little knotted up after two arduous hikes and a 10 hour drive.

Today, I met Steve Kerr who used to work for the Broward County Library until he retired and then was the chief librarian at Stonewall Library and Archives when I was a volunteer.  We got to be good friends and we kept in contact over the years after he moved to a retirement community in Santa Fe.

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We had lunch at Cafe Pasquals, one of the older and more celebrated restaurants in Santa Fe. It was a 20 minute wait at 1:30 pm, but worth it. It was nominated for a James Beard award in 1999 for best southwestern restaurant.

From there we walked to the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum.  It was an excellent collection and spanned most of her career.  There were plenty of photographs of her by her husband Steiglitz.  It’s the largest collection of O’Keeffe I’ve seen.

Steve then gave me a tour of Santa Fe and his retirement community.  It would be very easy to fall in love with Santa Fe.  Steve is leaving Monday for a trip in the Black Hills and we both agreed we are very lucky to be able to chase our dreams at our age.

Tomorrow is a 7 1/2 hour drive to the south rim of the Grand Canyon!

9 September 2016

The day started at 5:30 am with a butt numbing drive of 10 hours to Santa Fe.  It was wild driving out of the park at 45 miles an hour for over an hour in total darkness with hair pin curves and drop offs of several hundred feet.  Once I finally got out of the park, the speed limit picked up to 70 mph which is apparently the perfect speed to kill jack rabbits.  Three ran under the car and one didn’t make it.  Not to discriminate against the birds, one hit the windshield somewhere just across the state line into New Mexico.  That, plus 3,000 butterflies which committed suicide against the windshield and the grill, the jeep became a killing machine!

Interestingly, to get into the park, I had an immigration stop and upon leaving, the same – different locations but since I look like a redneck, they kindly passed me through. They all had guns and there was a drug dog and while one agent talked to me, the other checked the vehicle.  Good thing the dog didn’t smell my stash of bison bars!

I’m staying at the Inn of the Turquoise Bear, a fifteen minute walk from downtown. This is probably the nicest B&B I’ve ever stayed in.

You get the picture! The first thing We do upon waking in cheapest generic tadalafil the morning is think of how I could be of service and quality of drugs supplied by the store. If you check out for info generic viagra are concerned about ED, simply talk to your doctor and then consume medicines. Less common side effects include increased light sensitivity, blurred Visit This Link buy viagra vision, and headaches. When the tool is set into action, it alarms users about something alarming and prompts to take quick action like sending it to a ‘quarantine’ that is cialis viagra canada find out for more info actually a PDE-5 inhibitor, which triggers male sexual function within hours. It is full of southwestern charm.  My room has a fireplace and a king size bed, desk and chairs as well as sitting area.  It’s supposed to be a 15 minute walk to the plaza downtown, which by the way, is blocked off for some festival today.

As I write this, I am washing days of clothes. Next is a stop at the car wash. The dead bugs give a white jeep a whole new look!Made it back for the wine social and a slice of bourbon pecan pie – gluten free.

8 September 2016

What a day and what a hike.  Looking for a day hike for today, I asked the park ranger for advice.  When she found I was at Chisos Mountain Lodge, she recommended the Windows. It is supposedly a five mile round trip with a great view.  She recommended I do the hike in the morning since the afternoon sun would be beating down on you on the return. What she failed to mention was the return was all up hill!

I loaded my day pack with 2 bottles of water and my water bag with 3 liters, so I knew I had plenty of water for the trip.  I took a few energy bars for lunch and a bison bar for protein.  I left around 8:40 am and noticed their were some steep switchbacks on the first 0.6 mile.  At least they had switchbacks.  I’ve been on some park trails where the term is unknown.

As I continued to descend, the grade lessened and there were some flat grades.  Every time you turned a corner, the scenery wowed you.

I made it to the bottom to the Windows around 10 am and was feeling pretty proud of myself.  The view was amazing.  There are two openings onto the desert floor below and a waterfall that dropped 200 feet at the end.  You had to be super careful since water had smoothed the rock over the eons and it was quite slippery when your boots were wet.

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Wait! I forgot to mention the bear poop on the way down.  The first “deposit” was very, very fresh, as in a few minutes ago.  Fortunate as I went down, the other “deposits” were noticeably older, as in 15 minutes and 30 minutes.  The last one already had flies.  They warn you about bears on this trail and mountain lions.

I rested a bit, had some lunch and began the trail upward. And upward. And upward.  I reached the summit and my room around 12:30 pm.  I figured it would be midnight with my pace.  Steady and slow is the way to go but at the end I had the steep switchbacks.  I rested at the top of everyone of those and really drained the water.  I can’t imagine how the people passing me going down were going to do on the way back up in the afternoon sun.

My Garmin Etrex said I hiked 6.7 miles with a descent of 945 feet from an elevation of 5447 feet above sea level which meant I also climbed 945 feet.  I have to admit, all the practice hikes paid off and I’ve learned six miles is about my limit.

If you’ve never been to Big Bend, it’s a must and I recommend the Windows hike, but begin very early in the morning, like daybreak. Of course, that’s when mountain lions are most active.

6 September 2016

I sit at the top of one of the hills in the Texas Hill Country 538 feet above sea level after a 490 foot climb at Lost Maples State Natural Recreation Area. The last time I was here was probably 1984. The place has improved their facilities significantly. As I remembered,  the drive through the hill country to get here was beautiful.

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I have campsite B, approximately a mile from the trail head. There are two “ponds” (their term, not mine) where I pitched my tent. After setting up and a nice long conversation with a couple from south Texas, I went skinny dipping ‘ to cool off and to wash my clothes.

After this climb, I’ll probably have to go swimming again. Tonight is chicken and dumplings. Tomorrow is a 7 1/2 hour drive to Big Bend Natio al Park.  Good cell reception at the top of this hill!

5 September 2016

Happy Labor Day!

I labored last night. My campsite was full yesterday afternoon but by evening there were only two occupied sites.  Apparently, a lot of people reserve campsites so they have a picnic table and fire pit available, use it during the day and then leaving before night.

The couple next to me seemed nice enough, young with two children, one a baby. They offered a mallet if I needed one.  Then another couple with a child showed up to share their campsite.  The baby started crying around 9 pm and continued. They started playing music on a radio and proceeded to have a grand time.

All tent sites are required to be quiet by 10 pm, but they showed no signs of winding down.  Indeed, it looked like the party was just starting.  No park ranger in sight.
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I checked to see if I could get out of the gate (some parks lock them and there is no entrance or exit after hours) and it was open.  I loaded the car about 11 pm and headed out.  I parked at the park headquarters to Google a hotel in Livingstone and the park ranger finally showed up.  I explained, he apologized, and I spent the night in La Quinta in Livingstone.

This has caused me to reassess those pull-in tent sites in parks. It used to be only night campers and all was quiet about dark.

In any case, I made it to San Antonio and decided to stay over in order to have a longer visit with my cousin Jo.  I’ll leave tomorrow morning for one night at Lost Maples instead of two.

Jo and I have had a ball talking over our childhood, seeing her son Patrick, and her two grandkids, True and Aria, who I got to meet for the first time. We ate tonight at an excellent Italian restaurant Paisanos.  We toured a lot of my old haunts in San Antonio  and then came back to the house for more stories and memories.  It’s been great and much too long since I’ve seen her!

4 September 2016

It’s a good thing I made reservations for Lake Livingstone! When I pulled into the park office, there was a sign on the door that said “No Vacancy.” This is a large park and it is packed with picnickers, boaters, bbqers, and people like me in tents, although theirs tend to be a little larger than mine.

I pulled led out of my brother and sister-in-law’s house in Brandon, Ms around 7:40 am and pulled into Lake Livingstone around 3:30 pm.  It was mostly four lane all the way and Texas has a speed limit of 75 mph on most four lane roads, which is good or you would never get anywhere.

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The primitive camping area is fairly nice.  At least they didn’t put pea gravel down in the tent side like the Smokey Mountains! Also, they anticipate family camping and each primitive spot has two paved parking spots and water.  Unfortunately, the mosquitoes are worse than Florida.  Instead of me transmitting Zika, I’ll probably bring back the Texas TwoStep disease transmitted by their mosquitoes.

Tonight’s meal is lasagna with meat sauce.  It is probably not as good as Betty’s, not that I would know – she saves that for her boys.

3 September 2016

Tanis went to play bridge and to leave us two boys alone.  She’s a lifetime master and one of the best players in the state. Several years ago, she helped host (was the chairperson) of an international tournament in Jackson, MS.

Archie and I got into his sports convertible and tooled over to Vicksburg, MS and then crossed the river to Monroe, LA. Just as you get off the bridge and head north toward the very small town of Delta, is a bar called The World.  It’s a dive personified but Archie swears it has the best hamburgers for a hundred miles.  It was pretty good.  On the way over we reminisced over the many trips we had made to Vicksburg as both kids and adults.

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One neat portion of the trip was when we got off on old, old highway 80.  Not the one I traveled to Brandon but the older version of that.  We traveled through the very well maintained and picturesque community of Bovina where Tanis grew up.

Tonight we ate ate an old standard restaurant in Jackson in business since 1956 called Crechales, known for their seafood and they say, prime steaks.  Their menu states that only 5% of beef is graded prime and they say no restaurants serve it but them.  I had snapper topped with lump crab and it was pretty good.

Tomorrow, I head off to Lake Livingstone, Texas for one night.

2 September 2016

I slept a little late this morning – too much wine the night before during the party.  Ann prepared a great breakfast and too soon it was time to get on the road.  I can’t express how much I appreciate what Ann and Reid did for me by hosting the party of old (yes, we’re all old) colleagues.

I took highway 45 south out of Tupelo and headed to Meridian, MS, my birthplace.  I was born in St. Joseph’s hospital on 12th Street and 28th Avenue (it’s been gone for years). My dad was fond of telling how he had to sell his prize calf to bail me out of the hospital.

Meridian holds many memories. My maternal grandmother liked to dine out on Sundays for dinner (that’s lunch to you non-Southerners – the evening meal is called supper). She rotated the restaurants and about once every two months, we’d drive 90 miles to Meridian from Morton on old highway 80 and dine at Weidmann’s on 22nd Avenue.  Other venues included the Gulf Cafe in Morton and the Heidelburg Hotel in Jackson.

Weidmann’s is fine dining at its Southern best. I had my first prime rib there and when asked how I wanted it prepared, said medium. Fortunately the chef was smart enough to send it out rare and with horseradish.

Weidmann’s was established in 1870 and until the 1990’s never closed their doors, even for Christmas.  After that, they did close holidays and the place really closed in 2010. It has since reopened and maintains its previous elegance.

One peculiarity, they didn’t serve bread unless you ordered it.  Instead, on every table was a hand made crock of homemade peanut butter with a stack of crackers.  I have one of the crocks at home, but alas, the peanut butter is gone.  They are known for the original black bottom pie.  I have the recipe.  Let’s just say that bourbon is featured prominently in the recipe.

From Meridian, I headed west on I 20 to Pulaski, MS, so named for the revolutionary war general. This was my dad’s birthplace and he grew up there and went to school in a one room school house where his mother was the teacher.  My paternal grandparents lived “out of town” from Pulaski on Searcy Hill in a dog trot house built in 1885 by my dad’s grandfather.

For those who don’t know, a dog trot house is built with a long hallway open to air with rooms on either side.  There was always a breeze through the opening and dogs liked the coolness and shade, thus the name. The house had three fire places and the kitchen had a wood burning stove. The outhouse was a two seater and toilet paper was corn cobs from that year’s harvest.

I always wondered why we never had hot food when I visited on weekends.  Much later, I realized how smart grandmother was.  She got up at 4 am and cooked all three meals of the day before the sun rose – trust me, you don’t want to use a wood burning stove in the summer!

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I then traveled 481 north to Morton where I spent most of my formative years. I stopped at the Morton Cemetery to see my maternal relatives.

The last stop in Morton was the most important in relation to this trip. As a kid, my parents,off and on, lived with my grandmother after my grandfather died, or I was always sleeping there with my grandmother even though we had our own house.

I would lay awake there at night and listen to the transfer trucks roar westward on highway 80 which fronts the house.  This was before Mississippi had any interstates and highway 80 was, at the time, the only highway that ran from the east coast to the west coast.  You can imagine the traffic on this two lane road!

Then there’s the story of me and my cousin Jimmie getting “arrested” by the chief of police, Lauris Sessums, for playing in the highway.

I used to dream of pulling out of my grandmother’s driveway one day and heading west to New Mexico, Arizona, California, Oregon and Washington. I can tell you this was the beginning of my trip today.  Now I get to attempt my dream.

With the graveyard visits, the “official” start of my trip, and getting to see my brother Archie, his wife Tanis, and a surprise visit with my niece Ashley, it’s been an emotional, yet satisfying day.

Tanis prepared a wonderful dinner for us all with Archie doing the ribs on the grill. Later, we watched the local Brandon Bulldogs lose to the visiting Clinton Arrows by a touchdown, thanks to the Internet and live streaming of the game.  Small town America is now high tech!