Franklin D. Roosevelt State Park

Linville Falls Trip – FDR State Park – Day 9

24 June 2017

This morning I cooked bacon and eggs in the cabin. Usually, they provide some type of frying pan for the cabin – they certainly had pots – but no frying pan. However, they did have an electric pan. I can’t remember the last time I cooked on one of those. In any case, the eggs turned out great and the bacon OK. I think it was more the brand of bacon than the cooking of it.

By 10:30 am Tom and I were at the entrance to the Little White House. There were not many people but there was one group of young kids, remarkably well behaved. You first enter a museum that does an excellent job of exploring the life of FDR. They have an we’ll done video narrated by Walter Cronkite (it’ll be a little hard to update).

While we were in the museum, it began to sprinkle outside so I suggested we beat the group of kids to the actual Little White House since the house itself is so small, moving around in a large group is difficult. I know Tom was surprised at how small the house really is and how much simpler life was back in that time.

Chair where FDR had his cerebral hemorrhage

From the Little White House, we did the Avenue of the States where every state sent in their signature stone. Florida’s was “fossiliferous limestone.

Next, we headed to where the unfinished portrait of FDR is housed. Roosevelt was sitting in the living room while Elizabeth Shoumatoff was painting his portrait when he began rubbing his temple and complained of a headache. He then collapsed and after being taken to his bed, he died. Both the unfinished portrait is housed here as well as the finished one she did later from memory and photos.

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From the Little White House, we drove to the historic pools. Our admission at the Little White House allowed us entrance to the pool museum. The ranger suggested that the pools, which are drained because of structural problems, may one day be renovated for use again. In any case, you can feel the temperature of the water which is consistently near 88F.

Tom found out the water that would normally go to fill the pools is collected on site, treated and then used at the Institute on the hill above the pools, so it is not wasted.

At the historic pools, it again started pouring rain. In killing time talking to the ranger, we found out there was a winery just a little ways down the road. We detoured there, toured the Warm Springs Winery (about 30 square feet) and did a wine tasting. Their wine comes from their own muscadine vineyard plus a red wine from north Georgia which is mixed with some of the muscadine wines.

I bought a case, got a 15% discount, and loaded it into the jeep. I Ike to use it as gifts and I find if you chill muscadine wine, it works well on a hot summer afternoon on the patio. Summer is on it’s way so….

Lunch was at the Lightning Bug Cafe, a little hole in the wall section of the Firefly gift store. There seems to be a theme here. Lunch was excellent but the highlight for me (other than Tom paying for lunch) was their caramel cake with whipped cream. My great aunt used to make me a caramel cake every year for my birthday and the first taste was pure nostalgia. I finally got tired of caramel cakes as a kid and she then started making me German chocolate cakes for my birthdays. My great aunt Buleah was an outstanding cook, but she made the very best cakes I’ve ever eaten. Tie that slice of nostalgia with the Little White House primitive structural elements constructed of pine, ice box that worked with ice as a cooler, tube radio, etc. and you have my childhood.

Upon arriving at the cabin, I opened the back door to take the wine inside when the entire box of 12 fell on the ground on top of some rocks. Amazingly, only one bottle of the 12 broke. Can we say wine shock?

Tomorrow I travel to Silver Springs, FL.

Linville Falls Trip -FDR State Park – Day 8

23 June 2017

Another great night of sleep! It helps when you are not on an air mattress within the confines of a back packing tent. After coffee and a doughnut, I headed out to visit Calloway Gardens, just outside of Pine Mountain, GA.

I’ve heard a lot about Calloway Gardens and I have to admit I was disappointed for some reason that I cannot put my finger on. I knew the azaleas were not in bloom but it seemed as if nothing else was either. I don’t think they have figured out whether they want to be a horticultural garden or a wild, natural area, or an amusement park. I’m sure it suits them with a golf course, bike and hiking paths, flower walks, cafes, etc., but it just didn’t resonate with me. However, it serves as a great job market for high school kids working the summer.

I rented a bike, even though I brought mine on this trip, I didn’t think they would allow me to use mine, so I left it at the cabin. I should have brought it. The one they gave me had a front wheel that was out of round and needed the spokes adjusted. It had only three gears for some fairly steep inclines. Even though I rented it for half a day, I returned it within the hour.

I finished touring the garden by jeep and continued to be underwhelmed. I decided to head back to FDR and do laundry in the campground. I was running out of clean clothes and Tom Green was to show up today and I didn’t want to stink him out of the cabin.

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Later, I gave him the tour of Warm Springs. If you’ve ever been to the town you know the entire downtown area can be walked in 10 minutes, and that’s stopping in some businesses along the way. It does have a little seedy charm to it, however.

We then drove past the historic pool where FDR received his therapy (we’ll tour that tomorrow as well as the Warm Springs White House) and then drove through the Institute for Rehabilitation, an out growth of the original polio institute. The institute has grown into a massive campus.

While in Warm Springs, Tom purchased some boiled peanuts, so we sat on the patio upon our return to the cabin and ate “goober peas” and drank wine.

Dinner was at the Meriwether Steak Company restaurant outside of Warm Springs. It’s a huge restaurant literally in the middle of nowhere. The steak was good and the service excellent. We were a little reluctant after reading one bad review but persevered and were pleasantly surprised. Tom treated me to my dinner.

We returned to the cabin patio and stargazed until rain drove us inside. Tomorrow we hit the pool and little White House and eat more boiled peanuts.

Linville Falls Trip – FDR State Park – Day 7

22 June 2017

It did not rain and I didn’t have to pack a wet tent. I’ll need to air it out upon my return home, but I lucked out. I woke up around 5:30 am and after coffee, was packed and ready to go by 7:15. My GPS routed me along NC 221 and then interstate to Asheville. I finally got a cellular signal about 45 minutes outside Asheville and was able to call Joyce and Alfred Hiller to let them know I was coming.

The last time I saw Joyce and Alfred was when they were in Fort Lauderdale, I think for a cruise. That was many years ago and it was a treat to see them again. We all commiserated with each other about health issues and caught up with each other’s lives.

When I met Joyce, I was stationed at USCG Communications Station in New Orleans. I wanted to volunteer in the Boy Scouts and met her then husband Fred through a troop led by Glen Buck. Fred insisted I come over for dinner one night where I met Joyce and their son Reed. Joyce and Fred pretty much adopted me while I was stationed there . I was constantly eating at their place. The friendship lasted. Fred died after I came to Broward and Joyce married Alfred. I got to know him the first time when they came to Fort Lauderdale. He’s a very interesting guy and devoted to Joyce, Reed, and Reed’s family.

It was so good to visit. Unfortunately, I was on a tight schedule to get to FDR State Park at Pine Mountain, GA and had to leave after a couple of hours. Although it has been years since I saw Alfred and Joyce, we picked up like it was only a few days instead of years. Good friends are like that.

I wasn’t able to visit with Reed, Sandra and the twins. I thought they were out of town and didn’t notify them and they had plans for today.

Just as I was approaching the park, Sirius went crazy with a tornado warning. Twice. Then one time, the radio just started beeping. I kept looking around for funnel clouds but thankfully none showed.

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The cabin is great. They modernized an old CCC cabin, refinished the floors, redid the bathroom and still kept the quaint features. I have two fireplaces. I’m tempted to drop the air conditioner just to have a fire a la Nixon but will not.

Considering I haven’t had a shower in three days, I lingered a little tonight in the hot water. I enjoyed my stay at Linville Falls and will miss the nightly firefly show. Maybe FDR will provide them here.

Little White House and Wolfden Loop Trail

27 April 2016

I got a great night of sleep and got up around 5 am. I puttered around the cabin and then went out on the porch to watch the sunrise over the valley below.

I pitched the tent on the deck to let it dry out and then left for Warm Springs to see if there was someplace open for breakfast. Nothing! The town is very small with only a few buildings. Restaurants only opened for lunch or dinner.

On my way to Warm Springs, I drove to Dowdell’s Knob and took in the view. You can understand why Roosevelt liked the place. The statue of him looks over the valley.

FDR statue at Dowdell's Knob. — FDR statue at Dowdell’s Knob.

I drove around until 9 am when the Little White House was supposed to open and accidentally discovered the original pool used by FDR and those treated for polio. As I drove into the lot, the park ranger arrived. He was in a wheel chair and it was nice to see the state hires the handicapped. David introduced himself and we talked for a while, about the CCC, the New Deal, and what Roosevelt meant to the country. You could tell he wasn’t a fan of the current administration, nor did he think Roosevelt got the US out of the depression, but he was a big Roosevelt fan.

It was pretty emotional for me to tour the pool and the attached museum. They had an iron lung. People forget the devastation of polio and David and I got to talking how no one in their right mind thought mother’s collecting dimes would lead to anything. The pool is now drained and hasn’t been used since the 60’s but they had water bubbling like a fountain so you could test the temperature.

Admission was $10 for a senior and also entitled you to visit the Little White House. David suggested a back way that took you through the Warm Springs/Roosevelt institute. The place is massive.

By the time I got to the Little White House, bus loads of school kids had beat me there. The staff routed me around them. I got to see the house pretty much by myself along with a tour guide getting ready for the kids. The house looks small but is deceptively large.

Little White House, Warm Springs, Georgia.

A really poignant moment was seeing the desk at which Roosevelt had his stroke.

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Another great moment was seeing the unfinished portrait that was being done the moment of the stroke. That is in a separate exhibition hall. In talking with one of the personnel, Georgia has a plan to make all parks self sufficient. The Little White House has done so but there is only one full time person. Everyone else is part time or volunteer and they receive no benefits.

I returned to the cabin, packed my day pack with about 30 lbs and headed to the Wolfden Loop trail. It’s 6.7 miles and traverses a variety of terrains including 3 major waterfalls. I started a little after noon and finished the trail by 4:45 pm. I was pleased I completed the trail as a warm up for my Smokies trip. It gave me confidence I could do the Deep Springs/Martin Gap/Indian Creek loop. That entire trail is a little over 12 miles and I’ll have three days for it.

The Wolfden Trail is part of the 23 miles Pine Mountain Trail which is superbly maintained by the Pine Mountain Trail Association. The trail was very well marked and foot bridges were provided when ford crossing was too dangerous.

Regardless, I logged some 7 fords of streams with my trusty walking stick (50 years old – the stick, not me) to balance my way across.

The Mountain Laurel was in full bloom and often provided arbors over the trail. It was spectacular. I always have loved this plant. The stamens are inserted into the floral tube and when an insect lands to pollinate, they pop out of their pockets and powder the insect with pollen.

Mountain Laurel - Kalmia latifolia. It was everywhere! — Mountain Laurel – Kalmia latifolia. It was everywhere!

There was a good bit of climbing trail but the PMTA was good about using switchbacks so no trail was too steep. The increase in altitude was not great but you started out at around 1300 feet elevation.

Wildflowers were in profusion and the trail was not heavily used. I met a total of seven people and two dogs.

The water falls were especially nice. Cascade is the main fall most people hike to but the other two were equally nice.

I admit I was dragging towards the end. I made it back to the cabin, took a hot shower and headed to Pine Mountain and the Aspen Mountain Restaurant for a beer and a hot meal. It’s been a good day. Tomorrow is a drive to Asheville, NC.

Franklin D. Roosevelt State Park – Pine Mountain, GA

26 April 2016

The dawned cold! It was 59 F when I got out of the sleeping bag this morning. My bag is rated to 50 F as a comfort temperature but during the night I put on a pair of socks and a jacket. I dozed a little here and there between a visiting raccoon and the erudition of a few teenagers who saw the raccoon which then followed them for a handout. It’s good to know teenagers have mastered the use of the f**k word since they used it about 60 times in 60 minutes. The raccoon obviously has a pattern of visiting all the campsites looking for food. Eventually he and the teenagers went to bed and I got some sleep.

It was approximately a 7 1/2 hour drive with stops to Franklin D. Roosevelt State Park near Pine Mountain, GA. I phoned ahead in case the office was closed but made it around 4:15 pm. I checked in and went to the cabin.

Main office and welcome center of Franklin D. Roosevelt State Park.

The cabin is magnificent! It was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the 1930’s and has been restored. I have a massive stone fireplace in the bedroom and the kitchen.

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My porch overlooks the valley below. After this posting, I plan to have a glass of wine and watch the sun set.

My Dad was in the CCC and got the word he had been selected when as he was plowing 30 acres of bottomland in Pulaski, Ms. He said it saved him. They trained him as a cook until they realized he could play basketball and then put him on a team that traveled throughout the southeastern U.S.

Dad, second row, far right on the steps of the Parthenon in Nashville during basketball CCC days.

Tomorrow, I intend to do the Little White House tour in Warm Springs and then a day hike along some of the trails. FDR’s favorite place was Dowdell Knob and the trail is a 4.3 mile loop so I may do that. Supposedly the grill he used is at the site and there’s a statue of him at the overlook.