Torreya State Park – Day 4

20 September 2016

So much for gentle raindrops on the tent lulling you to sleep.  Around 9 pm the bottom fell out.  I doubt Noah was subjected to this amount of rainfall in so short of time.  It was deafening inside the tent.  It finally tapered off around 4 am.

I was more worried about the wind.  You could really hear it roar in the tree tops but for some reason, it never reached ground level.  I had staked the tent and fly fairly securely but the one complaint given about the tent on the REI website was the lack of stability in wind of over 50 mph.  Everything was ship-shape when I checked the tie downs this morning.

The good news was the rain had stopped by the time I got up.  I had to pack a wet tent but at least I didn’t have to do it in the rain.  Tomorrow will be dry out day for the tent – if it doesn’t rain here.

The great news is the tent never leaked!  I’ve been in downpours in tents many times and all of them leak.  This one didn’t let a single drop in.  I even kept the screens open for ventilation and I still didn’t get any rain inside. More importantly, there was no condensation inside.  I’ve never seen the inside of a tent after a rainstorm that didn’t have some inside condensation.  This tent was dry to the touch.

I always learn something new on each trip.  The one thing I should have packed was door mats for the tent.  It got really dirty and gritty inside with all the rain and foot traffic.  I thought to bring rugs for the inside but not for the outside.

The table I purchased from REI was great.  I may even purchase a second so one will hold cooking gear and the other will serve as a reading table (for the lantern) and to hold my wine glass.

I’m afraid I was a bad camper.  Twice this trip I accidentally bumped my electronic key in my pocket and set off the car alarm – at 7 am each time.  Good thing quiet hours are supposed to be over then, but I hate I disturbed some people sleeping in both days.

On the way in to the park the first day, I saw a single whitetail doe along the side of the park road.  The same occurred the second day.  On the way out this morning, a herd of whitetails crossed the road in front of me.

Although this is bear territory in Florida, I never saw one but did see several trees that had been clawed to get grubs.  I assume it was a bear since the trees were rotten and pretty much shredded.

The trip back was uneventful except for the area around Palm Beach.  It seems everyone on I-95 is trying to get to the Florida Turnpike and everyone on the Turnpike is trying to get to I-95.  My GPS wanted to route me to I-95 at Jupiter, Florida (you can see I-95 from the Turnpike there) but decided there were traffic jams on 95. It then kept me on the Turnpike until there were traffic jams on that.  I opted for bumper-to-bumper 6 lanes of traffic from Palm Beach to home on 95 rather than bumper-to-bumper traffic on 2 lanes of the Turnpike.  I’ll never know if I made the right decision.

Added to the traffic problem was five cars were in a race south on the Turnpike and really put everyones’ lives at risk.  They were even trying to pass each other on the right of the traffic lane just to get ahead of the other car.  The speed limit on the Turnpike is 70 mph and I figure they were weaving in and out at 90 mph.

I thoroughly enjoyed this trip.  The hike was great, albeit a little long, and the camping part was a lot of fun.  Even dishwashing was not too onerous of a chore. I actually learned to relax, sitting in my REI folding chair, chilling with a glass of wine and listening to the wind in the trees, the owls calling out to one another, and getting to see constellations forever occluded in south Florida.

 

Torreya State Park – Day 3

19 January 2016

…or I should say Falling Waters State Park and Florida Caverns State Park. I copped out of hiking Torreya today and did these state parks.

I first headed to Falling Waters.  I wanted to see the tallest waterfall in Florida (67′) into a sink hole.  No water pools at the bottom – it simply goes underground thanks to our Karst topography. It is impressive as it tumbles into the sink hole.

Falling Waters

The path to the falls is all newly done walkway and steps to the fall for optimum viewing. There are numerous sink holes along the way, prepping you for the falls.

You can then walk through a wire grass/long leaf pine community (again, all on boardwalk) and see the first oil drilling in Florida (they struck gas, not oil, and sealed it). Wiregrass is interesting in that it must have fire to produce seed. There is a close association with longleaf pine which also needs fire to reproduce successfully.

Wire grass (Aristide stricta)

From there, I drove through their campsite to see what the sites looked like in case I wanted to come back and camp.  This park seems relatively up-to-date with new facilities everywhere.  Other than the falls and a few nature trails and a lake for swimming, there’s not much to it as far as entertainment. Just quiet and solitude.  My kind of place.

From there I traveled back east along I-10 to Mariana, Florida and Florida Caverns State Park.  I used to exit I-10 at Mariana when I would return to Mississippi and pass the park every time.  I’d always wanted to see the place but was in too big of a hurry to stop.  I’m glad I did this trip.  I had an hour to wait for the tour and so quickly walked a trail near the cave.

Caverns Lodge and Visitor Center

Apparently, wildflowers did not receive the memo on global warming.  Carolina jasmine was blooming.  This is a Fall plant. You could always see it after the trees lost their leaves.

Carolina jasmine (Gelsemium sempervirens)

Trillium and rue anemone, both Spring flowers, were either in bloom or about to do so.

Wakerobbin (Trillium sp.)
Rue anemone (Thalictrum thalictroides)
Atamasco lily (Zephyranthes atamasco)

I added to my “never seen but heard of” plant list with Allegheny Spurge.  My major professor thought this plant should be within my collection area and I knew he would be disappointed if I did not collect it in Tishomingo State Park where I did my thesis work.  I never did.  The damn stuff was growing like a weed in Caverns State Park!

Allegheny Spurge (Pachysandra procumbens)

Most of the caverns were prepared for public viewing by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) back in the 30’s. I was told it is the only cavern system in Florida you can tour. The others are mostly under water and even this one flood periodically.

Down into the cave
Our guide

I was surprised at the myriad of formations and the pristine condition of the cave. We had a guide and guide-in-training, so we got some interesting perspectives from each.

Stalgtites
Guides said this was where the floor sank and created breaks that eventually resealed.
“Bacon” formation
These were called sweet potatoes because of their shape. Apparently the CCC was always hungry and most of the formations are named after foods.
Floor of cave where water has etched the pattern
The guide said newer formations were white in color with calcite.

We did see one inhabitant of the cave.

Cave bat

Both of these parks are well worth a visit so put them on your Florida bucket list.

One other aside. There was a guy on the tour that looked exactly like my friend Chris – in height, hair color (and amount) and even the way he stood and the mannerisms. I spoke to him briefly and he and his wife were from Canada (Chris originally from England). A true Doppleganger.

For the past two mornings, we’ve been socked in by fog. One of the park volunteers told me he had been working here six months and had never seen it like it has been.  I have to admit, the fog has been nice.  It kept the temperature down and it would condense on the tree branches and drip softly on the tent all night long. It was very soothing and peaceful.

It is predicted to rain all night and all day tomorrow, so I’ll be packing up a wet tent for the trip back.  I don’t mind since I need to clean the inside anyway and will need to air it out when I return.

From the dripping of fog condensate to rain on the tent, it has made for excellent sleeping weather!

Cross Country Tour – Day 48

15 October 2016

I left Birmingham around 8:45 am after bidding Lynn and a Robert goodbye. They stoked me full of fresh fruit, yogurt and coffee before I left and I admit to reluctance to leave such good friends.

The drive southward was uneventful.  The road took me down via Montgomery and Dothan, Alabama.  Dothan is where Fort Rucker is located and where my father was stationed for a period in our U. S.Army nomadic existence. I remember Dad driving my brother and me around the base  roads when soldiers were on maneuvers and the soldiers would run across diamond back rattle snakes. After they killed them, they would drape them across the base road signs.  It was not unusual to see three or four snakes draped across the signs and I’m not talking about small snakes. These almost reached to the ground and they were often as big around as a man’s forearm.  At least it seemed so to my eyes.

From Dothan it is a short drive to I-10, the state of Florida and the eastern time zone.  I made it to Stephanie’s by 4 pm.

I’ve know Stephanie for many years now.  We met through her husband’s cousin Ed. George and Stephanie were wonderful hosts when they lived in Fort Lauderdale and I admit to eating many meals in their home.  One year I won an award at the college and George and Stephanie threw a surprise party for me.

George and I were both faculty at Broward College.  He was on Central Campus teaching criminal justice and I was on South teaching biology. Both Stephanie and George  retired to Monticello in the panhandle and after too few years, George died.  My friend Joel and I came up for the funeral and were with Stephanie and her extended family when she spread George’s ashes at the local airfield.  We’ve kept in touch over the years and I admit it being too long since I’ve last seen her.

Stephanie is amazing.  She just recently won her age group in a 20 kilometer marathon.  What she does puts my exploits to shame.  I don’t know that I would have the discipline to do what she does (nor the knees).

She welcomed me in and I got to meet Joe, her boxer.  I’ve seen photos of Joe on Facebook but  his pictures don’t do him justice.  This is one cute dog.

Stephanie and I caught up on each other’s lives while Joe was figuring me out.  We had a great dinner that Stephanie prepared and by my bed time, Joe and I had become friends.  I also like to think I brought Stephanie some rain. While we were eating dinner, it poured.

Since you are reading this a day late, you’ll know I have no phone reception in the wilds of the panhandle.  By the time you read this, I’ll be getting ready for jury duty on Tuesday.

Cross Country Tour – Day 38

5 October 2016

There is no accounting for the stupidity of humans – especially me.  I knew I had not explored Biscuit Basin, so on the way to hike Observation Point at Old Faithful, I stopped in at Biscuit Basin.  It looked no more than a boardwalk, but as I got about halfway around, it said Mystic Fall.  Well, you know me and water falls!  It was only 0.5 miles! Then as I got to the path, it said Overlook 0.7 miles. I stupidly started off without water, without the pack, and most importantly, without the bear spray.

Fortunately, there were two hikers in front of me and I figured they would greet the bear first.  All in all, I met 6 hikers on the trail and only one had water and it wasn’t me and none had bear spray. It was like we were out for a Sunday stroll.

In any case, in spite of my stupidity, I’m glad I made the hike which was a little over 3.8 miles round trip at an elevation of around 8,000 feet.  From the observation point, you could see the entire lower geyser basin, including Old Faithful.  It was a pretty awesome vista.

View from Overlook at Biscuit Basin of the entire Upper Geyser Basin.
View from Overlook at Biscuit Basin of the entire Upper Geyser Basin.

It was also a steep climb of over 500 feet vertical to get here.  Thank goodness for switchbacks!

Trail up to overlook at Biscuit Basin.
Trail up to overlook at Biscuit Basin.

I left the observation point and followed the trail upward thinking this was an overlook to the fall.   Wrong! It was a loop trail to the fall with various view points of the fall as you hiked ever downward. Mystic Fall is spectacular with a drop of 70 feet into the creek below.  Every switchback had a better and better view.

Mystic Fall.
Mystic Fall.

Previous to the Biscuit Basin hike, I walked Fountain Paintpots.  It’s a total boardwalk hike and we had a surprise visitor at the paint pots.

A visitor to Fountain Paintpots.
A visitor to Fountain Paintpots.

Eventually, I made my way to the Old Faithful Inn, had a quick lunch and started out for Observation Point, this time with pack, water, and bear spray!

I was in luck, Old Faithful was to erupt in about 20 minutes after reaching the summit.  I needed a rest anyway and so waited with a Chinese family and a mother and daughter from a Indiana.  This time, Old Faithful was about 15 minutes late with numerous false eruptions which usually means a pretty powerful “real” eruption.  It proved to be true; this eruption was the tallest I’ve ever seen.

Old Faithful erupting as seen from Observation Point.
Old Faithful erupting as seen from Observation Point.

A bonus to the hike was a few minutes after Old Faithful blew, Beehive erupted.  It is my favorite geyser in the park and the force of the eruption reminds me of a firehouse under great pressure.  You could also hear the eruption from Observation Point.

Beehive Geyser erupting as seen from Observation Point.
Beehive Geyser erupting as seen from Observation Point.

I then decided to call it a day and head back to West Yellowstone.  The trip was interrupted several times for bison crossing the road.

Guess who has the right of way?
Guess who has the right of way?

I made it back around 4 pm and hurried to launder clothes.  This makes the third time I’ve washed clothes this trip and unless I get really messy, it’ll probably be my last.

Tomorrow is a 12 plus hour drive to Estes Park, Colorado and Rocky amountain National Park.

 

 

 

Cross country Tour – Day 10

7 September 2016

Only one photo this go around.  Wifi in Big Bend is slower than dial up. The best reception is in the bathroom.  Guess where I’m sitting as I write this?

I think they need to rename Lost Maples to Enchanted Maples. It has a magical quality to it. After the hike to the summit, I sat at the campsite for probably and hour just observing. I did go skinny dipping one last time to cool off before I got into the tent for the night.

The weather was moderate in temperature – cooler than any night camping yet – but very windy. It came in gusts all night and I got a few rain showers. The wind dried the tent by morning and I hiked out. At the parking area, I saw a deer on the run and during my drive to Big Bend I saw two bald eagles.

I crossed the Pecos River and was surprised at the width and the amount of water in it.  I’ve seen the Rio Grande and for much of the year it isn’t grand, but the Pecos was running deep.  I also passed Langtry, Texas, home of Judge Roy Bean, but didn’t stop because I don’t favor the hangman’s noose.

Upon pulling into the visitors’s center at Big Bend, I checked with the ranger about day hikes for tomorrow and on my way out heard someone comment to another “This is the most boring national park I’ve been to.”  I think it is one of the most exciting! There are unbelievable rock formations that beat any I’ve seen so far on any of my trips and the wildflowers are on steroids.  I guess there weren’t enough amusement rides.

View behind Chisos Mountain Lodge
View behind Chisos Mountain Lodge

The park is huge!  It would take a week just to see the basics.  If you’ve never been, put this on your bucket list.  It’s a long way from anywhere but the drive is very scenic and worth it.

The rooms are ok at the Chisos Mountain Lodge.  It’s run by Xanterra and I would call it rustic.  Of course, my definition of rustic is no martinis, just wine and beer.  The “lodge” is really like motel rooms and they could use a renovation.  However, the AV works extra well and I intend to get a good night’s sleep and do a few day hikes in the morning.

There are bear, puma, and javelina in the area.  I’ll take my bear spray!

 

Cross Country Tour -Day 4

1 September 2016

What a day!  We started with Ann’s breakfast of hash browns, bacon, green pepper, and egg pie with biscuits and home made jelly of honey and Chianti.  It was delish.

Reid and I left Tupelo and headed to Fulton for a visit at Itawmaba Community College (formerly IJC) to meet up with a few friends from bygone days when I taught there.  We walked into the administration building and sitting there to greet us was Mike Eaton, President of the college and Billy Todd.  Mike was the football coach while I was there and he and I used to jog together. Billy was a guidance counselor and later board member. Mike gave all three of us ICC baseball caps and we sat their and remenanced over old times.

The college had grown from about 1200 students in my day to 5800 on 3 campuses.  Virtually all of the old buildings I taught in were gone and new buildings and dorms were all over the place.  ICC has the largest online curriculum of any community college in the state and is now one of the fastest growing.  It was great to see the success of the college.

I got to visit with Steve Miller, director of food services for ICC and two other community colleges in north Mississippi.  I knew his dad when he had Steve’s position over 30 years ago with only ICC as his charge. Steve was more my age then and we hit it off immediately and we have been life long friends since. His dad, when in charge, never charged me for a meal in the cafeteria when I taught there because he knew how little I made in salary as a beginning faculty member.

Steve and I used to hike and camp and we hung out together when I managed the men’s dorm.  We also did some decided illegal things during those times which, in retrospect, seem tame but were not at that time.  We had a great visit.  Steve and I even went to Europe later when I first hired in at Broward College.  He’s been a loyal, true friend.

Later, Reid and I dropped in on his daughter Carol who was baby sitting her grandchild and we relived old times.  Carol was closer to me in age of this three daughters and one son.  She now lives south of Fulton in Smithville which was pretty much wiped out by a tornado a few years ago.

From there, we returned to Tupelo and visited the ICC campus which will probably overtake the Fulton campus in years to come.  I didn’t recognize that campus either – it had grown so much.

We returned to Reid and Ann’s place to get ready for the party. Reid’s second daughter Terry came by and we got to relive old times.

We had no idea how many people would show up for the party but Ann had everything planned to a fault. I know you are not interested in the people who came but administrators and faculty from my era showed up.  At the time, we were like family and even though all but one had retired, it was like we were at the old faculty lounge again rehashing the same topics. It was gratifying for them, me, and Reid and Ann. We had all aged a little, gained a little weight, and all of us had our medical issues, but in reality, we had not changed much.  This was one of the greatest group of people I’ve ever worked with.

Mississipi State and Ole Miss sent students who they wanted to succeed but were challenged academically to ICC to be taught by our physics professor and our chemistry professor because they knew if the students could learn under Jim and Herb, they would succeed at their institutions. They were that good.

All total, 11 administrators and faulty showed up along with Reid’s son Mark. It was nostalgic, touching, and very much fun. These were the people that molded me as a community college professor and to whom I will always be indebted. I can’t thank Reid and Ann enough for all their work and effort to make this a success.

Tomorrow I leave for a visit with my brother in Brandon, MS.

Cross Country Tour – Day 3

31 August 2016

It’s amazing how a hot shower revives the soul. I slept very soundly and awoke refreshed and ready to hit the road.  The Fairfield breakfast was pretty standard and lasted me until 9:30 am when the McDonald’s craving kicked in. I wanted a coffee and cinnamon roll.  Alas, the McDonalds in Dothan, AL no longer served cinnamon rolls so I opted for the much healthier egg McMuffin.

image

image

Time to Tupelo was a little over six hours via Montgomery and Birmingham.  My first surprise was there is an entirely new interstate from Birmingham to Memphis through Tupelo – I 22 that was not in existence 31 years ago when I taught at Itawmaba Junior College (now ICC). I missed the old highway 78 with its quirky little towns and scenery, but I have to admit I 22 scenery was pretty spectacular.  This part of Alabama and Mississippi is referred to as the foothills of the Appalachians and the new interstate showed it off to perfection – beautiful rolling hills (or what what we refer to as mountains in South Florida).

I pulled into Ann and Reid’s driveway a little after 3 pm and immediately fell into the catch-up mode of our lives.  I’ve know Reid for over 40 years and he’s been retired for 31 of those years.  He was my best friend when I taught at IJC and has remained steadfast over the years.  I met Ann four years ago when she and Reid came to Fort Lauderdale for a visit and I helped Ann spend Reid’s money on Las Olas.

We headed to The Grille in Tupelo for dinner and drinks.  Tupelo is I unrecognizable to me which is so strange since I spent so much time here when I taught in Fulton at IJC all those years ago.  (You could buy alcohol in Lee county but not Itawamba).  It’s a big city now with new construction everywhere.  The restaurant was at the site of the old fair grounds which was on the outskirts of the town way back when.  It’s now wall-to-wall shops and a new arena for large venues of entertainment.

Some of you may know Tupelo was Elvis’ birthplace.  When I was here from 1979-1984, it was just one little shack with one little sign.  Elvis still had iffy morals back then with all that hip action when he sang.  Today, it’s a massive area where tourists (especially British – don’t ask me, the French fever Jerry Lewis) flock en masse.  Tupelo milks it for all it is worth.

Tomorrow Reid and I will visit Fulton and ICC and some old friends there. Later that afternoon, Reid and Ann are hosting a party of faculty and students during my years at the college at their place. The memories wash over me.  Reid used the old college annuals of my years at IJC (5 years) and invited everyone he thought I would remember.  Sadly, the list of deceased was pretty long but it will be really good to see compatriots and former students during those years.  I suspect a little booze will also be imbibed during the reunion.

Day 2 Follow Up to the Follow Up

No rain, no stormy weather, no nothing. Looks like Dark Skies (and I ) over reacted. I didn’t dream the National Weather Service warning or the effective dates of the notice. Too bad, I would have liked to have spent the night at the site.  Instead, air conditioned room in Mariana.

Day 2 Follow Up

I should have know better.  My brother called wanting to know where I was.  He was worried about the tropical storm.  The park ranger cautioned me about the weather.  Carol texted me about the weather.

Dark Skies and the Apple Weather App both said everything was fine for Bristol, Fl where Torreya is.  Slight chance of rain, low of 72F, clear in the morning.

I was just about to turn in when I checked Dark Skies one more time.  Their forecast was the same but there was a statement in red about a tropical storm for Bristol, Fl!  I read the National Weather Service alert several times.  They were predicting 2-4 inches of rain and up to 57 mile an hour winds.  Possibility of tornados.  All in effect until 8pm tonight until 4 pm tomorrow.



Tonight! I was stunned to say the least.

The rain was no worry but the wind definitely was.  My tent is rated to 50 mph and then it begins to shred.  I agonized over the decision but I decided to hike out. I  broke camp in record time and hiked out in the dark. I made it to the jeep by 8:40 EDT.  even though the park is in CDT, the jeep had not switched over.

I made it to a Fairfield Inn in Mariana, Fl and immediately took a shower.  Let’s just say they will have to throw away the wash cloth tomorrow when I check out.  I was a little grimy.

So far, no rain, no wind, no tornados.

Cross Country Tour – Day 2

30 August 2016

I awoke around 6:30 am and had a quick cold breakfast of granola and blue berries with milk (just add water). I was packed (wet tent and all) and out of the campsite by 7:50 am.  Whoever said this is the toughest hike in Florida was right. Not a dry stitch on me by the end of the hike – and this was all before 9 am.  You climbed the ridge four different times in loose sand.

I did have a start during breakfast. A wild hog appeared behind the campsite and didn’t notice me until I made a noise. Fortunately for me, the hog went the other way. I couldn’t get a picture but it was pure black.

I waited until I got back to the jeep for my morning constitutional since the parking lot has a port-a-potty. Just as an aside, I panicked for a minute when I was in camp. I thought I had left the TP in the jeep but found it in the Bear Barrel. In any case, I shed the wet clothes in the port-a-potty and put on dry for the trip to Torreya State Park

The drive from Broussard to Torreya State Park was was about 6 hours with pit stops and lunch. I checked in with the ranger at the historic Gregory House, paid my fees, and the took at look at the Apalachicola River that the house overlooks.

Gregory House
Gregory House

Apalachicola River from Gregory House
Apalachicola River from Gregory House


Just as you exit the entrance to the grounds of the house, they have 4 or 5 Torreya trees growing, the purpose of my visit. These trees are found nowhere else in the world and are probably the most primitive native living tree in the US. They are gymnosperms and people used to use them as Christmas trees.  There population has dwindled to 200 and the park is instrumental in propagating the species so it won’t die out.

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The hike to the campsite was much nicer than yesterday. The trails are exceptionally well marked and part of the system is roadbed. I’m in campsite 1 of Rock Bluff Overlook and I look out over a length of the Apalachicola River. It was worth the hike over a little over a mile.

Dinner tonight is chicken with noodles. I’ll probably turn in early and set out for Tupelo as soon as I pack out and maybe sneak a shower in the non-primitive campground. I’m a little rank right now – so much so the mosquitoes don’t want anything to do with me.

Campsite 1 on Rock Bluff
Campsite 1 on Rock Bluff

According to the local forecast, there is a slight chance of rain tonight. Conditions deteriorate by tomorrow afternoon but I hope to be in Tupelo, MS by then.