I’ve been coming to the Smokies since I was a little kid. Dad took a photo of my mother, my brother Archie and me (in pajamas) somewhere in the park. I figure I was around 4 or 5.
Mom, Archie, and me in pajamas. I remember I got got car sick from the curves.
I remember the tunnels, especially because back then if you stopped in a tunnel and honked your horn, it would sound like it was raining in the tunnel. Of course, you cannot do that today. You would be rammed from behind by a car following you. The Smokies are far and way the most visited park in the U.S.
I’ve been to quite a few national parks and each has its own beauty and charm, but to me, the Smokies are special. The Appalachian chain is much older geologically than anything out west and it has a mature beauty – a comfortable feel when you travel through the park. I honestly think it the most beautiful drive anywhere in the world.
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Archie clowning for the camera.
The trip out of Gatlinburg gave emphasis to the name of the place. There were several patches of fog hanging around and plenty of the “smoke” from the killer trees Reagan spoke about. There were a couple of times when I rounded a bend or curve and the fog cleared and the horizon opened up for a spectacular view of the rolling, rounded peaks and it simply took your breath away.
Archie and Mom playing around for the camera.
I will never tire of the Smokies. It’s been a part of my life as long as I can remember and will always return. It nourishes the soul in a way nothing can.
Hammock sleeping is interesting. You keep slipping down where your feet are higher than your head. It could be the slickness of the fabric. How the fabric withstands the pressures amazes me. The hammock and fly is 2 lbs lighter than my tent but yet seems as strong. I also realized the sleeping bag in the hammock was not enough. There’s the old rule of camping of having more under you than on top of you. The temperature dipped into the 50’s and my back got cold because I compressed the down. Next time, I’ll use the air mattress with the sleeping bag to give a little more insulation. However, I got a good nights sleep.
Around 4:30 am, it started lightning and thundering. I counted the time between lightning and thunder and divided by 5 (gives you the distance in miles) and fortunately, it was moving away. I got up around 6:30 am and packed up, had a breakfast bar, did my ablutions, and hit the trail. I had planned to go back to the Deeplow Trail junction (0.4 miles) and got a little confused with the trail signs. I needed to hike another mile to get to the trail to Martin’s Gap where I would rejoin the Deep Creek Trail for a camp at site 58. The total distance would be another 4.3 miles. I got to the trail head and whimped out.
Unnamed falls along Indian Creek Trail.
The day before had drained me. Eight miles for this old body, all uphill, is too tough. I can give a lot of excuses: rain forecast, poor trail signage, an all uphill day, running out of water, etc. but the reality is 6 miles a day is about my limit. I hiked back down the Indian Creek Trail. That was approximately four miles downhill, and I could tell I was dragging even with the downhill. It was a good decision. Later in the day, it probably got a huge downpour, even though I was prepared for rain.
I got to the jeep, loaded up and headed to Gatlinburg. When I go to the Smokies, I like to stop at Clingman’s Dome (highest point) then Newfound Gap, and then Gatlinburg. The way is via Cherokee, NC and the last time I was through Cherokee, it was very run down. Gambling seems to have made a difference. It looks better, and even the old tourist stops have improved their look. The play Unto These Hills is still playing I think I saw it when I was 8 years old.
I have backpacked with Charlie Cooper out of Clingman’s Dome, so it’s always a little nostalgic. We hiked a ridge from there that was a sheer drop on either side and would get your blood pressure elevated.
Newfound Gap sign.
Whenever I took students to the Smokies, we would always stop at Newfound Gap for a photo op, particularly at the memorial for the Civilian Conservation Corps.
Honoring the CCC’s contribution to the park at Newfound Gap.
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Hikers at the AT trailhead.
The one place I didn’t stop was at Chimney Tops, my favorite hike in the Smokies. Cars were parked all along the road to the trail and the parking lot was full. There must have been 50 people on that trail.
Crag Knox and I hiked it one winter where we took two steps forward and slipped one back because of the iced trail. Two young teenagers passed us and we asked them if they had hiked the trail before. They said they were Chimney Tops virgins but grandma, just down the trail, hikes it several times a year. We were much chagrined with our slipping and sliding.
Another year, Charlie Cooper and I did something really stupid. The Chimney tops are called chimneys because they form two perfect chimneys or flues. We decided to repel down using just our hands and legs to brace us against the sides. Unfortunately, they widen as you go down and if you drop, it’s about a 100 foot fall. We made it, but we’re lucky. It’s also illegal which we found out later. About halfway down I dropped my walking stick and it fell the 100 feet and I thought it was gone forever. Amazingly, I found it at the bottom.
Gatlinburg looks a lot like it used to. It’s a little more touristy, but it always has been. It is still that way but is still neat. I always think of taffy here. As a kid, my parents always bought salt water taffy. The store is still in business!
I found a decent rate at the Park Vista, a DoubleTree by Hilton. It’s at the top of a mountain and I’m on the tenth floor with a mountain view. The hotel is old and not particularly well run, but the view is to die for.
View from my hotel room in Gatlinburg.
I head out for home tomorrow with a stop in Tifton, GA for the night.
What I’ve learned on this trip is that I’m best with day hikes and two nights in a tent or hammock is my limit. Personal hygiene suffers, particularly when there are no showers at Deep Creek. This was ok in my 20’s but less so in my 60’s. Six miles is a long day, not to mention 8.3. I drink water like a salt water fish. I almost emptied a three liter water source in one day and had a sparse amount to last two more days. I could always boil the stream water and I did have a filter, but that was for emergencies. After all that water, I peed constantly after setting up camp. The deer was happy.
The morning started with a peal of thunder. It was around 5 am and I decided to get everything packed and in the car before it rained. I was at the Deep Creek Trail head by 7:23 am and on the trail by 7:30. I decided to hike to Juney Whank Falls ( yea, I know, what a name) before starting the trail. It was a steep climb and a good test for what was to come. The falls are only 0.3 miles but it is all up hill. Then it’s 0.3 down again.
Juney Whank Falls.
After viewing the falls, I decided to do the Juney Whank loop trail which ties into Indian Creek, my main destination today. It was a mile loop. One half was quite a climb. I met some park workers clearing the trail and doing upkeep. Their day stated at 7 am and ends at 5 pm and everything needed for trail maintenance had to be packed in. Let’s just say they were physically fit. All spoke and when questioned, loved their job.
Juney Whank Loop.
Once on the Indian Creek Trail (a rocky road in reality) I began a steady climb. Interestingly, two joggers passed me. It’s a popular jogging trail.
I break off to Indian Creek Trail.
Indian Creek joins the Deeplow Trail (a misnomer if ever there was one) which carries me to campsite 51. Again all up hill. I made it to the campsite by 12:30 so I had been hiking for five hours. It ensures continued flow of blood and help to enjoy rock hard erection for deeper penetration into her. viagra levitra online The fruit is also a more natural form of caffeine that gives you an energy boost but unlike, say coffee for example, you dont get the cialis sale jitters just more energy and for longer periods of time. All of this could take some time to think about the type of card that would sum buying tadalafil tablets up your baby shower party. Unfortunately it did not display sildenafil tablets 50mg remarkable efficiency versus angina pectoris and hypertension.
I’ve learned not to be in a hurry uphill. Small steps and frequent rest stops and water breaks. As it happens, I hiked 8.3 miles today. Still it was a tough day. I didn’t have a dry stitch on me. I also haven’t bathed in two days and I smell a little rank. No even the bugs want me.
I found two suitable trees and hung the hammock. Dinner tonight is Cana Masala!
Campsite 51 with my hammock.
I decided to rest a little in the hammock and after a while I needed to find a bush. As I got out of the hammock, there was a doe not ten feet from me, calmly eating. She didn’t bolt but kept on eating and then calmly walked away.
Doe at campsite 51.
Later, I realized the deer was as the spot I had chosen to relieve myself. Apparently, it was the salt in my urine she was after. TMI!
The campsite had bear protection for your food. It was really neat. A metal cable about 15 feet above ground had pulleys with wires and hooks to lift your food away to protect from roaming bears. It’s the best system I’ve seen. I simply raised my entire pack.
I never can sleep well the first night. I think I got around 4 hours. The biggest problem was I couldn’t find my inflatable pillow (yes, it’s luxurious camping) and I had to make do without it. Good news! I found it just in time for tonight.
It’s interesting what you forget. I meant to bring a towel, wash cloth and soap for the campground. I stopped in Tifton, GA and found most of what I needed at the Walmart market and the rest at Fred’s Dollar Store. Didn’t know they were still around. Deep Creek has no shower. Oh well, at least I have it for the next time.
The welcome center on the outside of Bryson City is the nicest I’ve seen. It’s what they all should be. They had rhododendron and dogwood blooming in profusion all around the place with a very nice gift shop inside.
Welcome Center near Bryson City, NC.
I took SR 28 into Bryson City. This is a very fun road to drive with twists, turns, “S” curves, and sheer drop offs all the way in to town. I put on the “Will the Circle Be Unbroken” album by the Nitty Gritty Dirt Band and cruised in with mountain music.
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Deep Creek Campground.
Now, the campground is much expanded to include group camps, picnic area, bathrooms (nonexistent then) and a ranger cabin. All the roads are paved. It took me a while to find the trail head. Fortunately, they did not pave that.
Deep Creek.
The forecast tonight, tomorrow and Thursday is 57F with possibility of rain and thunderstorms all three days. I wouldn’t have it any other way.
No posts for the next two nights. Nonexistent signals.
