19 July 2021
We had intended a drive through of Guadalupe Mountains National Park this morning but Siri steered us southeast and away. It turned out for the best because it would have given us less time in Big Bend today.
I was last at Carlsbad Caverns 50 years ago. I was last as Big Bend in 2016. In 2016, I approached Big Bend from the south end via the Cottonwood Visitors Center and stayed at Chisos Mountain Lodge. I hiked the Windows trail that visit.
Today, Jo and I entered via Persimmon Gap entrance in the North and drove to the Panther Junction visitors center. The Border Patrol was in place just before you entered the park but they didn’t stop us and were not doing any inspections. It’s 29 miles from the entrance in the north to Panther Junction and that’s at the speed of 45 mph, so it takes a while to get into Big Bend. However, it is worth it.
What really stood out to me was the difference in the southern approach and the northern approach. The southern approach is more spectacular and you drive up into the mountains to get to Chisos Mountain Lodge.
The northern approach takes you through a valley where you are literally surrounded by mountains. It’s only when you reach Panther Junction that you begin your climb.
What also stood out were the giant puffy clouds over the entire valley. It was great to watch the clouds cast shadows on the mountains.
There are several significant things about Big Bend. It is comprised of 1,252 square miles of Chihuahuan Desert. It’s the 14th largest park in the national park system. The Chisos mountain range is contained entirely within the park, the only mountain range in the U.S. to be contained within a national park. There are three major ecosystems: Rio Grande River, Chihuahuan Desert and the Chisos Mountains.
One geological formation stood out at Panther Junction. It reminded me of Zabrinski Point in Death Valley.
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Once we reached Panther Junction, we had the opportunity to drive nine miles to Chisos Mountain Lodge or turn around and head back to Alpine, Texas for our rooms for the two nights. We turned around and I managed to get a load of laundry in.
I made reservations with Open Table for a restaurant in Alpine called Reata. We showed up at the correct time but the place was closed. That’s unusual for Open Table to have that type of misinformation.
Instead, we walked to the place next door called the Old Gringo Hotel Bar and Grill. This place is a gem!
It advertises itself as a biker hotel. The inside decor was great with wood carved seats and sculptures.
Before we even sat down, the bar keep and one of the owners, who served as a waiter, came by to welcome us. Later, the chef came out and introduced herself and we all got to talking. One of the owners of the bar is from Mississippi.
The menu was eclectic with a little leaning towards Tex-Mex and Cajun. They even had red beans and rice, Texas style.
Tomorrow we will do some very short day hikes in the morning and then drive to Chisos Mountains Lodge with additional stops along the way.
Stay tuned!