Fort Wilderness – Day 1

22 April 2019

The color green is everywhere in the Smokies.  Back in Fort Lauderdale, we have a tremendous amount of green of every hue.  Our greens do tend toward the blue end of the green spectrum.  Here in the Smokies, it is more toward the yellow end of the spectrum.  The drive into north Georgia and then into North Carolina was spectacular.

Green, green, everywhere!

Fort Wilderness is one of those RV parks that has seen better days.  However, the person in charge was super nice and allowed me to choose any tent spot I desired.  In addition, since they were not full, she allowed me to park in the spot next to mine.  She gave me her cell number to let her know which site I chose and I noticed it was a 954 prefix.  She has a condo on Fort Lauderdale on the beach and intends to return in May for the Air/Sea show.

The Great Smoky Mountains, Cherokee and Gatlinburg have a special place in my memories.  I think the first time I came to the Smokies was when Mom and Dad were returning to Morton, Mississippi from Havre de Grace, Maryland where Dad was stationed at Aberdeen Proving Ground.  

More green!

My next real memory the area was Gatlinburg was with my grandmother (on my Mother’s side) to visit a religious attraction.  I don’t remember the name of it then but it has now been changed to Christ in the Smokies.  I never knew he visited here.  In any case, I was less impressed with the wax figures of the Bible and more impressed with the making of salt water taffy on main street in Gatlinburg.  They had a machine that pulled it right in front of you.  I’ve been buying the stuff ever since.  I.purchased a pound box of the vanilla (my favorite) and will dole it out to special friends who are taffy connoisseurs.  

For some reason back then, we entered Gatlinburg from the Pigeon Forge area and not Cherokee.  Pigeon Forge was, of course, BDP (before Dolly Parton).  

One year, my Uncle Ray and Aunt Minrose were driving me from Havre de Grace to Morton to visit my grandparents when we stopped at a restaurant in Cherokee.  I was very small back then but I remembered the wax teeth you could get for Halloween.  There in the display cabinet were what I thought were waxed teeth.  It turns out it was the owners real set of false teeth.  Don’t ask me why they were on display with the pies and cakes.  

Ever since those first two visits, I’ve returned numerous times and hopefully will return numerous more.  

My favorite hike in the Smokies is Chimney Tops.  I think I’ve climbed that four times.  It was always a thrill.  I’ve climbed it in winter when the trail was iced and in the heat of summer, and in the spring and in the fall.  It never fails to impress.  Don’t tell anyone but I actually climbed down one of the chimneys years ago.  That was a hair raising event and one I will never, ever repeat.

Chimney Tops – recovering after the fire.
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Two years ago, Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge were almost incinerated.  The forest fire that came close to wiping the two towns (and Dollywood) off the map started at Chimney Tops.  The trail was closed my last visit but it has since reopened and it’s as popular as ever if the number of cars parked there is any indication.

The Smokies were not smoking today. No cloud cover to speak of – clear blue skies that hurt your eyes.

On my way to Gatlinburg, I stopped at Newfound Gap.  There were five hikers about to head north on the Appalachian Trail.  I don’t know how far they were going but I don’t like their chances.  There was one person mansplaining to both sexes what to expect.  Either he was doing a poor job or he really was trying to bluff his way with the group.

On the south side of the gap was a solitary hiker.  I asked him which direction he was headed.  He said north also.  He was quiet, confident, and admitted he was not hiking the entire length.  I figured he really knew what he was doing.  

Gatlinburg has become the epitome of garish.  It was always touristy but now it’s just gross.  I bought my taffy, had a hamburger at Shoney’s and left town.

For many years, Cherokee was the poor sister city.  It was mostly run down with cigar store Indians, and every souvenir shop in the world.  Today, Cherokee is looking much better.  The Cherokee have made the city name things in English and Cherokee.  I didn’t know Cherokee was a written language but you now see signage to that effect on all the major streets and buildings.  It has become more what Gatlinburg was at one time – rustic and endearing.

My one real experience with Cherokee was to see the performance of “Unto These Hills”.  Again, my grandmother on Mom’s side.  She was a traveler and needed me to chaperone.  At least, I called it that.  I did get to see more of the world than I would have because of her love of travel.

I remember the play to this day.  I thought it was great but what does a six year old know?

Tomorrow I hope to hike the 6 miles Smokemont Loop Trail.  It’s supposed to be wildflower heaven.  Six miles uphill is about my limit so hopefully, I can handle 3 miles up and 3 miles down.  The web site AllTrails.com suggest anywhere from 2.5 to 3.5 hours round trip.  I expect it will take me longer.  

The drive from Cherokee to Gatlinburg is still, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful drives you can make.

Author: searcyf@mac.com

After 34 years in the classroom and lab teaching biology, I'm ready to get back to traveling and camping and hiking. It's been too long of a break. I miss the outdoors and you can follow my wanderings on this blog.

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