Author: searcyf@mac.com

29 September 2016

I woke before sunrise to a herd of deer in front of my cabin. It seems they know a great grazing ground when they see one. They could care less about the guests and only move out of your way when you walk past.

Since my room was so late yesterday, they comped me for breakfast and I splurged on a short stack of buttermilk pancakes. I then fired up the jeep and headed to Hoh Rain Forest, some 40 miles away but almost two hours travel time.

You are constantly entering and leaving the Olympic National Park and you go from 60 mph outside the park to 45 mph within the park, to 35 mph when you enter the Hoh Rain Forest.

I remember reading about a temperate rain forest as a kid and always wondered what it would look like. My imagination was stimulated by an old movie staring Jan Michael Vincent and Chief Dan George called Shadow Hawk that took place in the rain forest will all the ferns and mosses.

I have to admit I was at first disappointed. It lacked the wow factor of the past few days and then I realized it was a more sedate, sensuous, quiet beauty and I got into it. The air was amazingly fresh smelling, almost to the point of what the ozone you smell after a lightening discharge.

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Roosevelt Elk are supposedly found grazing within the park but none were seen today. I suspect there were too many people on the trail.

I hiked a couple of trails, ran into some people that wanted to converse, and then had lunch on a picnic table at the park. Sol Duc Hot Springs will provide a “hiker” lunch and that’s what I had. I didn’t eat it all, so as I was getting ready to trash the Saran Wrap, a raven opened the bag and stole a potato chip.

I decided to continue south along highway 101 and stopped at Ruby Beach and got some great shots of the massive rocks out in the ocean that everyone sees when the Pacific Northwest is portrayed. You could walk right down to the beach, crawl over deadfall, and get up close and personal to the “islands.” It was scene right out of a Chevy commercial!

The drive back took two hours and by then I was ready for dinner. It seems Sol Duc Hot Springs has as a visiting chef, the chef at Bryce Canyon National Park. This guy is great. Last night I had their special, Dungeness crab cakes and cream of broccoli soup. It was outstanding.

Tonight I had to explain to the young lady who was bartending how to make a vodka martini. She thought extra dry meant extra vermouth – ugh! I also had to explain how to make a simple syrup and two people were constantly referring to the bartender’s guide for the drinks. My martini per my instructions was pretty good. The hamburger the chef did for me was great and I would come back here just for his French fries, they were that good.

Tomorrow is a nine plus hour drive to Spokane. I really wanted to do highway 20 and pass through North Cascades National Park and see Grand Coulee dam, but that would put me in excess of 11 hours. I’ll simply have to come back to Washington for those!

28 September 2016

Damn! Jim Wilson is right again.  He threatened to have Governor Scott deny me re-entry into Florida if I didn’t go to Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park.  He also said something about extradition to Mississippi, so with that hanging over my head, I reluctantly headed to Hurricane Ridge.

As it turns out, the road was a straight shot from the Port Angeles Ferry.  It’s a beautiful drive along a curvy road that took you into sunlight and into shadows.  At one time, the outside temperature dropped 7 F on one curve alone.

I arrived after a 45 minute drive from the ferry and immediately started on a loop trail. I started the Cirque Rim Trail which is 0.75 miles, got to the overlook and doubl d back on the High Rim Trail (0.5 mile segment) and the hiked to Sunrise Point (0.1 mile).

From Sunrise Point, you could not only we the Olympic Mountain Range but also Port Angeles and, across the Strait of Juan Fuca, Victoria.  Spectacular!  You could see at least 4 glaciers on the mountain tops.

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I stopped and had lunch on an overlook at an elevation of around 5400 feet.  Lunch was cheese and crackers and water.  I sat next to a lady and her teenage son who lived 2 1/2 hours away and her son had never seen the park.

Wilson considers this the ultimate in views and I reluctantly agree, but I do want to come home some day.

I think the GPS in the jeep is even getting into the trip.  I programmed both Hurricane Ridge and Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort into the GPS and when I left Hurricane Ridge, the system took me along back roads to Sol Duc.  One road was even a washboard dirt road.  I can’t even remember the last time I drove a washboard road and it brought back fond memories.

I arrived at Sol Doc around 4:30 pm and my room was still not ready.  The resort apparently had some kind of inspection and they were behind.  Sol Doc Hot Springs is noted for, wait for this, hot springs.  There are four areas: one normal temperature 60F, and then three others of increasing temperatures.  I’ll try it once I get settled in the cabin.

Tomorrow I intend to travel to the Hoh rainforest, another bucket list item. I remember learning about this temperate rainforest in high school and have always wanted to see it.  I hope to bring home some good photos!

27 September 2016

I have mixed feelings about Victoria.  It’s a pretty, clean, historic town but the people leave me cold.  Maybe it’s because the climate is so consistent, but there seems to be no emotion to them.  The nicest people I have met so far are the gardeners at Butchart Gardens (I’ve been spelling it wrong all this time) and the cook at the Mexican restaurant down the street from the guest house.

I woke up Florida time, 5:30 am here, and had coffee, checked out who everyone thought won the debate, then showered and shaved for breakfast.

That’s another thing.  Breakfast started at 8:15 am, not 8:00.  Everything in this guest house is very precise.  There’s a note on the door that it locks automatically, a note with glasses there is ice in the dining room, a note in the bathroom not to use the “good” towels to remove make up or you’ll be charged.  I get the feeling that one of the owners is a little bit of a control freak.  Those are just some of the notes in the room.  They are all over the place.

Breakfast was a pleasant surprise (perhaps because the owners subcontract it out).  I had soft scrambled eggs which really were soft scrambled, bacon, toast, fruit, fruit juice, and a complimentary fruit tart along with coffee.

I left after breakfast for Butchart Gardens.  It’s several miles out of town on some back roads and when I drove into the place, I was a little worried about the commercial atmosphere and the ordinariness of the initial view.

My first wow moment was the sunken gardens, produced on the site of an original cement quarry.  It was pretty stunning.

The next part that I really liked was the Japanese garden. I’ve seen many Japanese gardens: San Antonio, San Francisco, Morikami, etc., but this has to be the best and best maintained.

I was pleases to see my birth flower, the Chrysamthemum, in bloom.

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When I used to work in Montana years ago, I was introduced to Fuchsia and they had two types blooming all over the place.

I drove back to town (decided not to do lunch or tea at the garden) and drove downtown to see the Empress Hotel.  I walked through the lobby to the sound of the fire alarm which everyone was ignoring and then walked through the dining room and tea room.

After that, I took a quick walk around the block and headed back towards the guest house.

Before I pulled in, I decided to follow Dallas St. For a ways to see the shoreline.  It’s classified as a scenic way, but I confess the view of the mainland leaves me a little cold.  It looks a little plain and a little rundown.  Perhaps I just don’t like cities.

I returned once more to the guest house and then walked a half mile down Cook Street to have lunch at a Mexican restaurant.  It was some of the best Mexican I’ve had in a while.  Most Florida restaurants can’t decide whether they are Mexican or Cuban and try to do both – poorly.

I have to be at the ferry terminal tomorrow by 9 am, so no breakfast for me.  I’ll spend the night in Olympic National Park at the Sol duc Hot Springs Resort.  I can’t wait to see the rainforest!

26 September 2016

It was interesting traveling out of Oregon into Washington.  Even though the scenery is similar, you can still differentiate between the states, if nothing else, by the road quality and speed limits.  The speed limits are slower in Washington and the roads are better in Oregon.

My main concern today and biggest worry of the trip was to make the 1 pm deadline to be in line at the ferry at Port Angeles, Washington to travel to Victoria, British Columbia.  I wanted to build in a little extra time for unforeseen circumstances, so I awoke at 4:30 am this morning and was on the road by 6 am. I pulled into the ferry terminal at 12:30 pm, paid the $126 remainder of my fee for my round trip passage,  had my passport checked, and filled out the passenger card.  I then killed time by walking around Port Angeles a little and catching up on some phone calls.

At exactly 1:30 pm, they started loading cars and I was positioned in such a way I was the first off the ferry.  The trip is billed as an hour and a half, but part of that time frame is off loading the cars once in Victoria.  When the customs agent found out I was from Florida, he paid particular attention to my answer I was carrying no firearms.  He then asked if I normally carried guns in my car.  Guess he had been reading about all the gun legislation in Florida.

I made it to the guest house, Dashwood Manor, so named from one of the previous owners.  The “beach” is across the street but it isn’t a real beach. Instead it is riprap to stave off erosion from storms they get from Hawaii. The guest house owner called the storm the Pineapple Express.  Strangely, from 1 pm-4 pm, no one is on staff.  They put a sign on the door they have gone shopping (apparently an everyday thing – or at least an excuse not to deal with guests).

My room overlooks the beach.  The owner seemed a little reserved but once I paid the charge, he seemed to warm up.   Perhaps it’s just the Victoria way.  Most Canadians are very friendly and outgoing, but I noticed that when I walked to a restaurant for dinner, very few made eye contact with me much less provide any sort of greeting or acknowledgment to my greeting.

Tomorrow I intend to tour Buchart Gardens, the main reason for my visit to Victoria.  I may try to have tea at the gardens.  Several have recommended I have tea at the Empress Hotel, the oldest and most famed, but the price of their tea is $125 Canadian. Even with the exchange rate, that’s $94 American. Besides, it’s too much food for one person.  I understand the Buchart tea is similar and $35 Canadian and a lot less food.

I may, if I have time, also visit the Abkhazi gardens.  It’s supposedly a short distance from the guest house. Now for some sleep.

25 September 2016

For some reason I woke at 5:30 am and was raring to go. However, I had to wait until my room service breakfast was delivered at 7 am.  In any case, I was one the road at 8 am and headed towards Troutdale/Portland on I-84 west.  My idea was to travel old, historic highway 30 as far as possible and see what “old” Oregon looked like.  I exited at Troutdale and started back east on Oregon 30.  If you are ever in this area, I recommend it.  There are a lot of twists and turns and narrow lanes and bridges, but it takes you back to the 40’s and 50’s.  There were a lot of mom and pop inns and restaurants along the way.

My first stop was at the Portland Women’s Forum State Scenic Viewpoint. I’m not sure why the name other than the obvious but it has some of the best vistas of the Columbia River Gorge along with a view of the Vista House.  To the west of you, Portland, and to the east of you the mighty Columbia River.

Next up was Vista House at Crown Point. This is a basalt promitory on the gorge and the building that occupies the site was designed by Edgar M. Lazarus. His detractors referred to it as the world’s most expensive bathroom. Samuel Lancaster supervised the Columbia River Highway project in 1913 and the idea of the Vista House was to promote travel on the highway.  Construction on the house was completed in 1918. It is, of course, much more than bathrooms.  It has an observation deck, a small cafe, gift shop, and exhibits.

Heading east on 30, the next stop was Latourell Fall.  The hike to see the fall was all downhill and fairly short (0.2) miles.  It’s a spectacular waterfall of approximately 249 feet in height. It’s a straight shot down for the fall whereas most of the falls in the area are tumblers in they have steps down.

Bridal Veil Fall was next.  Most states have a waterfall named bridal veil and they are all fairly broad in appearance.  This was a little further in hiking distance (0.6 miles) but worth the downhill part – which meant all uphill on the return.  Also at Bridal Veil was an interpretive trail with overlooks of the Columbia River Gorge.

I missed the last two falls on the scenic leg: Oneonta Fall and Horsetail Fall.  I could have seen Oneonta as I stopped at the Oneonta Gorge to view the tunnel carved into the Rock for old highway 30, but did not know the fall was there,  further up the gorge (1.5 mile hike).

Horsetail Fall was so busy, I couldn’t get a parking space anywhere near the place. I opted to head to Bonneville Dam for a tour of the visitor center.

Bonneville is a large dam and one of the first on the Columbia River. It also has locks to allow ship traffic and barges through.  Since the dam stopped the natural flow when completed in 1938 (F.D.R. Dedicated it in 1937) they installed salmon ladders to allow migration further upstream.  In the visitor center, you can see salmon swimming upstream through specially designed portals in the salmon ladder.

Next, I crossed the Bridge of the Gods into Washingon.  It was built in 1926 and is a 1,856 foot cantilevered bridge across the Columbia River connecting the two states.  There is a toll of $2 in both directions and I assume it goes for the upkeep of the bridge since it was in pretty good shape.  It’s very narrow and as I was returning to Oregon, a transfer truck was beginning to cross, so it is still used commercially.

My last attempted stop was the picturesque town of Hood River.  I say attempted because the downtown area was like the traffic at Multnomah Fall.  I think I found two parking spaces in the entire town and they were far away from the main drag.  With amount Hood close by, it’s a popular stopover for campers, hikers, bikers, and what not.  It looked a lot like parts of Tallahassee to me with a collegiate atmosphere.

Tomorrow, I have to be at the Coho Ferryboat in Port Angeles, Washington by 1 pm for my trip to Victoria, British Columbia.  I have reservations ( not that I knew I needed them, but Keith, who has been to Victoria many times clued me in). It’s about a six hour drive, so I need to be on the road around 6 am to allow me a little leaway in case I hit a traffic jam or something.

24 September 2016

OK, I’m officially in a state of nirvana. The ultimate goal of this trip was to see Multnomah Falls in the Columbia River Gorge and I did it.

Many years ago, I saw a photo of this waterfall and decided I wanted to see this.  The photograph was stunning and I did have an idea it could not be as beautiful as portrayed in the photo, but worth the effort to see it in any case.  Boy, is this thing beautiful! More on this later.

I started out a little late this morning.  I woke at 6 am and was on the road by 8 am.  Wouldn’t you know it, it was a blue sky day with perfect temps in the low 30’s. As I drove past The Watchman on my way out of Crater Lake, I had a tremendous urge to stop and do the hike, but I was on a schedule and had already done the hike two years ago.

As I traveled, I kept seeing this snow covered peak.  It finally dawned on me it was Mount Hood.  As I got closer, it got more spectacular.

In any case, I headed to Columbia River gorge in Hood River, Oregon and checked into the historic Columbia River George Hotel.  What a great place!  My room was not ready (2 pm) so I decided to drive to Multonmah Falls to see what it would be like for tomorrow.

The place was a zoo.  Cars were parked on the sides of the road and there was a back up of traffic forever.  I tried to find a parking place to no avail, so I headed up the road and turned around, thinking of an early start the next day when a parking space opened up.

I did not realize how the falls were so close to the road and there is a restaurant and gift shop as well as a ranger station on the site.  You can walk right up to the scene in everyone’s photos and the sight of the falls was everything I expected.

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I decided while there, to walk to the bridge in the photo which was 0.2 miles away and when there decided what-the-hell, climb to the top.  It was a mile in distance, straight up with 11 switchbacks.  I can tell you it was a bit of a climb but I made it surprisingly well.  The traffic on the trail was like Grand Central Station at rush hour.  You needed traffic cops to sort it out.

What they didn’t tell you was the last switch back was downhill quite a ways, which meant a steep climb to the next to the last switchback on the return.  It was worth the effort, worth the trip.  Everything before and since has been icing on the cake.

I met a couple from Albuquerque and we got into a friendly banter about the trail, our itinerary, and retirement – he’s wanting to.  Everyone on the trail was super friendly and realized how difficult the climb to the summit was and encouraged everyone along the way.

I returned to the hotel and had dinner there at Simon’s.  This is a great old hotel with an elevator that must be operated by someone at the desk, like I remember as a kid – “3rd floor, men’s”.  I had an outstanding halibut and I’m sorry to admit, 2 martinis – well, not really sorry.

The hotel sits on the banks of the Columbia River, impressive in it’s own right, and my window overlooks the river.  On the wall of the rooms and in the hallways are the prints that I remembered as a kid from my grandparents of the golden age with lovers in swings, languid images of women staring into space, etc.  To me, this was the art of the 1910’s and 1920’s before Art Deco.

My intention is to get up early-ish tomorrow and head back to that area of Multnomah Falls and see other waterfalls along historic highway 30.

23 September 2016

There was ice on the jeep when I got up.  I headed to Annie’s Creek Restaurant for breakfast and then, with good intentions, headed to Watchman Peak to hike the 1.6 mile up and back trail. They were repaving the west rim road and I had to be escorted via 1 lane to the pull off.  When I got out of the car, it was 32F with a stiff wind, light rain and you could barely see the summit.  I decided to wait for better weather.

I had to wait again to get back on the west rim road and traveled it until I started the return trip on the east rim road.  There are several great overlooks on the east rim road and I took advantage of Cloudcap Overlook, Phantom Ship Overlook, Sun Notch, and a few unnamed ones.

My first “hike” of the day, if you can call it that, was a 0.5 mile loop at Sun Notch to get a great view of Phantom Ship Island.

Most people know the large island in Crater Lake is Wizard Island, but Phantom Ship (supposedly the pinnacles look like ship masts) is often overlooked.

There are several additional potential islands in the lake if the water level drops which is entirely possible because Crater Lake is formed from rainfall – it is not fed by any springs or rivers.
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One additional stop was Vidae Falls.  All you have to do is pull off the road and it’s there in front of you.  It is a fairly tall fall but not with a tremendous amount of water flow.

I returned to the cabin for lunch and then tried one more time for The Watchman – a spectacular hike.  Again the road wait but when I got to the pull out, the weather was actually worse.  You couldn’t see the top at all.  I don’t know how the road crews do it but they were laying asphalt in that weather when visibility was about 15 feet.

I decided it was a good day to curl up in bed so I started back to the cabin when Godfrey Glen Trail caught my eye.  It’s found near Mazama Vikkage and it is a 1.0 mile “easy” loop along Munson Creek Canyon. You can hear Duwee Falls as you walk the trail but the canyon is too steep to see the falls.

Tomorrow I set out for Columbia River Gorge to eventually see Multnomah Falls, the prime reason for this trip.  Everything I’ve done so far has been planned around this stop.  I hope for good weather the next day so I can get some good shots.  Then I intend to view numerous other falls and overlooks along the gorge.

22 September 2016

I’m at the half way point of the trip and boy, does a night in a bed with a shower make a difference.  I woke around 6:30 am, late for me, and got on the road by 8 am.

The drive from Redding to Crater Lake was really nice.  It had some wide open spaces that reminded me of my days in Montana.

Confession time.  I’m over backpacking in to sites and pitching a tent.  The hike into and out of Glen camp pretty much did me in.  It’s day hikes from here on out with hotels and lodges for the sleeping accommodations.

I lucked out at Crater Lake.  I had wanted to stay in the Mazama Village cabins but they were completely booked a year ago.  Last night in the Super 8 in Redding, I checked again and they had a vacancy!  It’s cabin C-4 for me for the next two nights.  I was too late to cancel the tent reservation but let them know when I checked in in case someone wanted  my tent space.  Not likely.  I talked to a young couple while washing clothes this afternoon and it snowed on them last night.

For the remainder of the trip, I have hotels/motels for Yellowstone; Caprock Canyons, TX; and Mineral Wells, TX.  In Yellowstone, the closest I could get was the town of West Yellowstone, but I know that place and it is very close to Old Faithful and my center of operations there.

I arrived at Crater Lake around 1 pm to snow flurries.  I quickly drove to the rim and got a few shots of the lake at the Crater Lake Lodge as snow began to obscure Wizard Island.

I then started to drive to a hike I wanted to do called the Watchtower, but the snow really started coming down with such intensity it obscured the road.  I decided to come back down off the rim and do it tomorrow.  I needed to wash clothes anyway.

To be honest, it was thrilling to drive through the snow on the twists and turns of the rim road.  The jeep does everything automatically.  The seat warmed up, the steering wheel warmed up and the windshield wipers kept time to the music I was playing.  The only thing I had to do was turn on the window defroster.

I have a special relationship with snow.  I love watching it fall and I love the acoustical silence it provides.  I love walking in it, feeling the individual flakes pelting your skin.  I suspect the young couple will get more snow tonight!

I stopped for a brief 0.4 mile loop called Castle Crest which I loved in June two years ago for the wildflowers.  I didn’t expect much this time of year but did get to see some Monk’s Hood still in bloom.

I finally got the washing done and met the young couple I mentioned who were on a 30 day circuit of national parks.  We compared notes on various parks and made suggestions to each other on ones we intended to visit.

I ate dinner at Annie’s Creek Restaurant in Mazama Village – fixed chicken which was surprisingly good.  It was certainly better than the fancy restaurant at the Crater Lake Lodge that I dined at two years ago – and cheaper.

Tomorrow is some day hikes around the rim.

21 September 2016

OK, I’m officially beat.  With yesterday’s hike in and today’s hike out, I’m wiped.  Instead of camping out at Whiskeytown/Trinty/Shasta, I’m checked in to a Super 8 in Redding, CA, near the campground.  I needed a shower in the worst way, the stinging nettle is still a little sensitive and I am exhausted.  I’ll drive to Crater Lake tomorrow and assess my physical state then.  I’m scheduled for two nights of camping there.

I remembered the hike into the campsite as all up hill but I was mistaken, as I found out this morning on my return.  I just didn’t remember the downhill parts yesterday.  It took me about 3 1/2 hours to hike out this morning and that was with plenty of rest stops, so the pace wasn’t too bad.
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As I started the drive to Whiskeytown, I realized how tired I was and I had to force myself to stay awake.  I got plenty of good sleep last night, it just must have been the physical effort.  It didn’t help my ego that three joggers ran past me on my way back to the jeep.

Probably not service at Crater Lake so you may not hear from me for a few days.

20 September 2016

I’m not sure what happened to me yesterday but I was done in. Instead of hiking 4.6 miles into Glen camp at Point Reyes National Seashore, I camped at Tomales Bay Resort for the night. I splurged on the motel room, splurged on dinner at Saltwater Oyster Bar and didn’t get my $10 worth of camping site.

Whatever it was, I felt much better today and headed for Bear Valley Visitor Center where the trailhead for Glen camp begins. There were deer everywhere at the visitor center, totally unconcerned about us early morning hikers.

Before I got to camp, I got up close and personal with a covey of quail. I’ll have to be wait until I get to my bird book to determine which species. They looked perfectly black with a cute top knot but they were in the shade and I may not have seen their markings.

Another interesting discovery was a banana slug crawling across the trail. They are huge!

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Once I set up camp, I wanted to do a little more hiking so I set out for Wildcat camp 2.5 miles away and on the beach. In particular, I wanted to walk to Alamere falls just down the beach from Wildcat. I just about made it when the fog started rolling in and I decided there wouldn’t be much to see in pea soup fog so I started back.

On the way to Wildcat, I stopped to photograph some wildflower and got an intense burning sensation in my left leg, just below the knee. I had knelt on a stinging nettle. I had forgotten how intense the pain could be. As I write this, it still burns.

All in all, it was 7.19 miles but 4.6 was with a pack with an elevation gain of 1156 feet and a maximum elevation of 1270 feet. I’m a tired puppy.

So far, there is only a young couple in campsite 5. They walked back from Alamere falls and told me the fog was ok this morning but had begun to roll in during the afternoon.

I think dinner tonight will be beef stroganoff. I’ll pack out tomorrow morning and head to Whiskeytown/Mount Shasta National Recreational Area.

Later in the afternoon a single hiker came into site #3 and we’ve had some good conversation. He’s pretty hard core. He did 13 miles today and will do 20 tomorrow. Even later, a threesome came in and pitched camp next to me at site 10. At least the hard core guy is older. The threesome is two guys and a girl probably in their 20’s. They have a lot of energy. Hope they sleep some tonight.