Category: Cross Country Tour

16 October 2016

I hate goodbyes and especially to good friends.  I tried to get Joe to go with me but he wasn’t having any of it.  Smart dog to stay with Stephanie.

The trip from Greenville, Florida was about 7 1/2 hours drive time, first via I-10, then I-75, then the turnpike.  Later, around Jupiter, Florida, the GPS shuttled me off to I-95 and I and I appreciated it.  The turnpike was getting some rain and people were stopping dead in the rain and blocking traffic.  You would think Floridians would know how to drive in the rain since we get 50 inches a year.

I stopped at the local Publix to get milk and other things for breakfast the next day and then pulled into the driveway with the trip odometer reading 11, 090 miles for the entire trip.  I’ll certainly need my next 10,000 mile checkup on Wednesday (assuming I don’t get picked for a jury on Tuesday).

Below is a summary of my hikes.  I did over 64 miles of trails and cumulatively climbed 8, 896 feet (and it felt like it).  Thanks to Robert Buford, I found out I was not 66 years old but 67, so I’m even more impressed since I’m older than I thought.

I’ve learned that 6 miles is pretty much my limit with a full size pack.  I’ve also learned that every time you think the rest of the trail is downhill, it isn’t.  I don’t like public campgrounds (national or state) because the people generally are there to party, not camp.  You are not necessarily any better off if you go primitive and have to hike into the campsite because some people just don’t get it.

Even with the above complaints, this was a wonder trip.  I will eventually post some albums of the trip on my personal website (see the link at the top right of the page) along with some videos.

Thanks for following my blog.  I hope I wasn’t too boring.

DATE	Park	Hike	Distance	Max Elev	Elev Gain
Aug 29	Allen David Broussard Catfish Creek State Park	Campsite 1	4.6	59	30
Aug 30	Torreya State Park, Bristol, FL	Rock Bluff Primitive Camping	2.0	150	30
September 6	Lost Maples State Natural Area	Campsite A	3.26	538	490
Sep 8	Big Bend National Park	The Windows	6.7	5447	945
September 12	Grand Canyon	South Rim from Angel Falls Lodge to Hermits Rest	9.73	6820	1300
Sep 13	Joshua Tree Narional Park	Skull Rock	1.7	4360	121
September 15	Sequoia/Kings Canyon	Moro Rock	0.3	6725	150
Sep 15	Sequoia/Kings Canyon	General Grant	0.5	6350	9
September 15	Sequoia/Kings Canyon	General Sherman Tree	0.8	7000	154
Sep 19	Point Reyes National Seashore	Point Reyes Light	1.3	535	314
Sep 20	Point Reyes National Seashore	Glen Camp	7.19	1270	1156
Sep 23	Crater Lake	Sun Notch	0.5	7054	82
September 22	Crater Lake	Castle Crest	0.4	6434	276
September 23	Crater Lake	Godfrey Glen Loop	1.0	6102	102
Sep 24	Columbia River George	Multnomah Fall	2.0	420	784
Sep 25	Columbia River Gorge	Wahkeena Fall	0.2
Sep 25	Columbia River Gorge	Latourell Fall	2.1		659
September 25	Columbia River Gorge	Bridal Veil Fall	1.0		127
September 27	Butchart Gardens, Victoria, BC		0.5
Sep 29	Olympic National Park	Ruby Beach	0.5	68	68
Sep 29	Olympic National Park	Spuce Nature Trail	1.2	2493	135
Sep 29	Olympic National Park	Hoh Rainforest Hall of Moss	1.0	2493	75
Oct 2	Glacier National Park	Avalanche Lake	5.8	3905	715
Oct 5	Yellowstone National Park	Observation Point	2.3	7555	200
	Yellowstone National Park	Mystic Fall at Biscuit Basin	3.5	7600	315
October 7	Rocky Mountain National Park	Bear Lake	0.7	9450	39
October 7	Rocky Mountain National Park	Emerald Lake	3.6	10110	620
Total			64.38		8896

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14 October 2016

My first trip to Birmingham was as a kid.  My grandfather owned and ran Agnew Hardware in Morton, Mississippi and I went with him and my grandmother to a hardware convention in Birmingham. My grandmother won first prize for some contest where you had to make something unusual and she mad a pair of ear rings out of fish hooks.

It was also at this convention that they picked up an advertisement for some paint company that was given away by the company – an electric clock. That thing lasted over 40 years.  I finally lost track where it ended up but it may yet still be keeping time somewhere.

My next trip was still as a kid.  My grandmother took me to Bessemer, on the outskirts of Birmingham, to see my great Aunt Ernestine and great Uncle Bivin Johnston and their son Terry and daughter Amanda.  Terry was all grown up and in the military, so I didn’t see him but I fell in love with my cousin Amanda.  She was an absolutely beautiful girl and although I was much too young for her, I never missed a chance afterward to see her. It was like she got a hefty dose of beautiful genes in the family.

Aunt Ernestine doted on me and made a very shy little boy feel welcome.  I remember her playing the piano and singing me the song “Monkey, monkey, bottle of beer, how many monkeys are there here? One can read, one can write, one can smoke his pawpaw’s poopoo pipe.” I know, I know.  Totally silly, but those were the words to the song and she played it with great relish over and over to entertain just me – to heck with the others in the room. Come to think of it, I remember my great Aunt Deliah singing that song, so it must have been something in their childhood.

Since  then, I’ve been to and driven through the city many times and it has always been a place of good memories.

You can’t drive through Birmingham (at least you couldn’t) without noticing Vulcan, the largest cast iron statue in the world, and the steel mills.  When I was young, many were still in operation belching smoke and making steel.  Later, after they closed, you saw the rusting hulks of the mills and saw how it devastated the city of Birmingham.  For many years, the city was dirty and decaying.

After a great breakfast with Lynn and Robert at a newly discovered place, Robert and I headed for a tour of the town.  I have to admit, the city has come back a long way from the last time I drove through the city streets.  Robert showed me where he went to high school, several of the significant civil rights landmarks and several of the places he and Lynn frequented as kids, teenagers, and adults.  Some were still there and some weren’t.

We then drove to Tannehill State Park, the site of the original foundry for iron in the region.

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To make iron, you need the red iron ore abundant in the hills of northern Alabama, charcoal (also abundantly made from the trees in the area) and limestone (abundant throughout the South). Not far from the original foundary, three blast furnaces were eventually constructed with the aid of the Confederate government on site and which supplied a major part of the pig iron used to make steel for armaments during the War of the Rebellion.

Wilson’s raiders, a mostly Iowa regiment of some 14,000 soldiers, destroyed the foundries in 1865, just before the end of the war.  However, after the war, Birmingham became a major center of steel and iron production, particularly for World War II.

Robert took me to the museum in the park and one exhibit was very poignant. It listed every steel and iron mill every in operation in Birmingham (I think I counted at least 12) and sadly, their closing dates.  Robert says there is one mill still in operation.  These were companies that ran company towns with company script good only in company stores.  Eventually the companies recognized the importance of insuring the health and well being of their workers and began schools, housing, and social services for their workers.

Birmingham has a fascinating history. Robert took me to Ensley, the original “Birmingham” and showed how it spread out from this tiny community into the city it is today.  It was also the city of Bull Connor, the bombing and death of three little girls at the 16th St Baptist Church, and the KKK.  It is also the city of culture and arts in the South and a city in renaissance.

After we returned home, Lynn and Robert cooked us a steak dinner with salad, potatoes and all the accompaniments.

This has been a great visit.  Robert and Lynn have been steadfast friends over many years and we have laughed, joked, relived good and bad times.  And Lynn, I promise never to bring up the word “camper” again!  Thanks for everything!

13 October 2016

Well, that was a luxurious stay at the Capital Hotel! Strangely, there was something wrong with their shower. It would run hot, then cold, then lukewarm, then cold again.  It took a lot of running around in it to get the right temperature.  Not only that, they placed a soap dish in the shower about head high and I was constantly hitting my head on it as I showered.

It took me 2 1/2 hours to drive to Memphis to meet Sturart Sineath.  I haven’t seen him in 3 years and it was good to catch up.  We had lunch, talked old times and new times and too soon, it was time to get on the road again.

My next stop was Hoover, Alabama to see Lynn and Robert Buford.  Highway 78/I-22 pretty much takes you direct to their place.  I have to admit that this section of Mississippi and Alabama are really attractive.
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I made it to their door by 6 pm and we immediately fell into conversation as old friends do.  I’ve known them for over 35 years through the college and we picked up right where we left off.  I did tell them that I was upset they had retired before I did, but now that I’m retired, it’s OK.

They treated me to dinner at a really nice Mexican restaurant and I had my favorite, steak fajitas.  I really like the house they have.  I’m particularly jealous of Robert’s fully finished basement.

Tomorrow we plan to tour some sites in and around the area.

12 October 2016

Today has pretty much been a travel day of six and a half hours, most of it along I-30. I have come to the conclusion that drivers in Dallas/Fort Worth are actually worse than south Florida.  I’ve never been cut off so many times in so short of a time.

The consolation was pulling into  Capital Hotel in Little Rock.  This is really nice.  The room isn’t terribly large but everything is first rate.

After relaxing a moment, I called Shawn Leary to see about meeting up with him tomorrow in Memphis.  I’ve known Shawn since I first taught at Itawamba Junior College in the early 80’s. Unfortunately, Shawn thought as was arriving in Memphis today and his schedule is full tomorrow.  We had a nice long talk and I got to speak with his partner Greg. We promised to stay a little better in touch than we have in the past.
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Next I called Stuart Sineath who I’ve known since the late 80’s from BCC.  We plan to meet in Memphis tomorrow around noon. It’ll be good to se Stuart again. Unfortunately, I’ll have to meet him at work and miss seeing his wife Nikki and their kids.

Later tomorrow, I plan to head to Hoover, AL to see Lynn and Robert Buford for a couple of days.

I finally added up my hikes and found that I hiked 68.3 miles and climbed 8,896 feet with a range of elevations of 59 feet in Florida’s Broussard State Park to 10,110 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park.

As I contemplate this, I wonder where I got the determination to hike the miles and climb the elevation.  I think it comes from my maternal grandmother, Ruby Agnew.  She had stamina.  I remember one time she was late for church but arrived late and took her place in the church choir. Later we found out she had wrecked her car on the way to church, found out she was OK and the car was driveable and came to the church service anyway.  Only later did the wreck affect her.

I don’t anticipate any more hikes, so this is probably my final total.  Once  I get home, I’ll produce a spreadsheet of the hikes and the data associated with them.

11 October 2016

I must have been very tired.  I slept 10 hours last night. I was a little late in starting for Mineral Wells but got off around 9 am.  It was a little over 4 hours driving time and it went by pretty quickly.

I checked in with the Days Inn just outside of town and found I could get into the room around 2:30pm so I had time to get gas, visit an ATM, and get a haircut.

The haircut was compliments of Coy’s Barber Shop downtown for $13.  I no longer look so shaggy. I told him about my desire to see some of the old hotels associated with Mineral Wells and he gave me some directions.

The first I found was Crazy Water Hotel, about 2 blocks from his shop.

It’s called Crazy Water because the hotel was built at the site of one of the (then) mineral wells and a crazy woman often sat at the well asking visitors to draw her some water from the well. They soon determined her “condition” was getting better and people began to flock to the site.  The first two hotels burned but the one in the photo was completed in 1927.

There’s something to her getting better.  The mineral water has high concentrations of lithium, the major ingredient in Valium.

Mineral Wells had one of the highest concentrations of mineral springs in the U.S.  Unfortunately, they have pretty much run dry.  There’s only one left in town.

The most decorative and ornate hotel is the famous Baker, named for the hotelier, opened in 1929 at a cost of 1.2 million dollars. The architect was Wyatt C. Hedrick who modeled the hotel after the famous Hot Springs Hotel (I knew I had seen something similar). It’s 14 stories and had over 450 rooms with an Olympic size pool in front of the hotel filled with mineral water.

Guests had all kinds of amenities like circulating ice water in each room and a laundry deposit that could be emptied by staff without entering the room.

Some of the famous people who have stayed include Glen Miller, Clark Gable, Judy Garland, Lawrence Welch and Lyndon Johnson.

It is considered one of the more haunted hotels since people were generally ill when they came here and many died in the rooms.
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Unfortuantely, the springs dried up, penicillin was introduced and Mineral Wells was no longer popular – until a military base opened just outside of town.  That helped for years until WWII ended and it finally closed for good in 1963.

Currently, there are plans to renovate the hotel.  All it needs is financing and they have been working on that since 2010.  I really hope they do renovate.  I love these old classic structures.

I enjoyed my walk around town.  It’s like a time capsule.  I did a double take when I saw an auto dealership in the middle of town.  In my home town, we had a Ford and Chevrolet and they looked exactly like this one.

When was the last time you saw a dry goods store? Do you know what dry goods are? We had several in my home town but the largest was Gaddis’ Dry Goods. I even worked there one Christmas rush.  They had an old cash register that was big as a wardrobe which individual teller drawers. I liked this one since it had a bar next to it.

I then headed to Lake Mineral Wells State Park where I was going to camp but changed my mind.  It’s a small lake mostly used by fishermen but there is a extensive trail system and neat picnicking grounds.

Some of the original structures were made by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930’s.

Tomorrow, I’m off to Little Rock for one night.

 

10 October 2016

Originally, I was to camp out at Caprock Canyons State Park at Quitaque, Texas, but as you may have read previously, I’ve given up on camping out for a multitude of reasons and am now ensconced in the Best Western Plus (whatever that means) in Clarendon, Texas, about an hour’s drive from the park.

That hour was enough to discourage my visiting the park even though I have been told by a Texas couple when I was at Lost Maples that Caprock is second only to the Grand Canyon in the size of its canyons.

I did check what maps I could find and it didn’t have any scenic drives shown even though the park says it has them. In any case, I called it a day.

The day started out at 4:30 am (I’m still on EDT) and I read until it was time to go to breakfast at Hacienda del Sol.  Mark, who checked me in at 6 pm was already up and preparing breakfast.  He did an excellent New Mexican omelet, perfectly cooked, with a green chili salsa.

After breakfast, I hit the road for a 6 1/2 hour drive to Clarendon. Strangely, GPS started me south and then southwest before I finally hit I-40 east.  I didn’t make great time since large stretches were through mountainous roads with a 40 mph speed limit.

Those of you who know me know I pretty much follow the speed limit anyway but especially so on trips since police and highway patrol sometime feel out-of-staters are fair game.

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Another upside is that I am in the Central Time Zone and I should be getting more adapted to the time change and may sleep a little later. Or not.

Tomorrow is a short trip to Mineral Wells, Texas, just outside of Dallas/Fort Worth.  Mineral Wells used to be  the “in” spot in Texas for their curative mineral waters, but like a lot of those places, now out of favor.

 

9 October 2016

Today started with a breakfast buffet at the lodge restaurant.  You are always taking you life in your hands when doing the buffet, but this was a good one. The eggs were not rubbery and the view from the window overlooked the valley below.

About 7:45am, our tour director Holley started ushering us to the bus where we met the driver Leonard.  Both were extremely competent and well versed in the culture of the area.  Leonard was especially good at spotting wildlife which included a buck mule deer, turkeys, and an elk.

We first stopped at one of the earliest Pit houses, so named since they were in essence a pit dug into the ground with a roof. This was on the top of the Cuesta (Mesa Verde is misnamed, it should technically be Cuesta Verde because the whole thing slants southward).

From there we bussed to an overlook of Oak House and Mummy House.  Oak because of the presence of an oak tree at the site and Mummy House because a mummified corpse was found inside the house.

We also had a pretty good view of Sun Temple from the overview and later got an up close and personal view of the place.

Next was Balcony House which we would get to tour.  Drew, the temp park ranger who is in actuality an archeologist, led the tour.  He was very enthusiastic about this particular tour.

First, he asked if we were up to a three story climb on a wooden ladder, then a 12 foot crawl on hands and knees through a tunnel, and then two more ladder climbs and a series of steps carved into the rock to get back to the starting point.

We all enthusiastically (some more than others) agreed we were.  We were to regret the enthusiasm.

We first left the Mesa and went down by a series of concrete steps constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps to an overhang were Drew introduced us to Balcony House.

Next, was the three story ladder climb to the Balcony House itself, home to about 40 people when it was occupied.

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Immediately noticeable were two large kivas or ceremonial chambers.  These normally had a roof over them and the roof would be covered and plastered so you could walk on the roof of the kiva.

Drew did an excellent job of eliciting answers from the 49 hardy souls (and one 7 week old baby) who ventured this far (one person took one look at the ladder and went back up the stairs).

We contined to explore Balcony House and then came the tunnel.  It was apparently built for defense after the house was constructed and you could see it would have been very effective since any enemy would have to crawl through the tunnel one at a time.

Next came another ladder.

Then came the steps carved into stone.

Lastly, there was a third ladder.  Remember the native Pubelos didn’t use the ladders.  It was all hand and foot climbing in the rock.  The only ladders were down into the kivas through the roofs.

We all managed to make the climb and then return to the bus.  The next part of the trip was the main reason for my detouring to Mesa Verde: the Cliff Palace, the largest of the cliff dwellings in Mesa Verde and the one I had studied in college.

Unfortunately, it was closed to the public but we accessed two overlooks that gave you a great bird’s eye views of Cliff Palace.  It goes 90 feet back into the cliff and has 217 rooms and 23 kivas and housed perhaps over 400 men, women and children.

After bidding Holley and Leonard farewell, I started a six hour drive to Taos through some beautiful country.

I arrived at Hacienda del Sol about 6 pm and found I had chosen the Escondida room with a fireplace, heated floor tiles, and a massive bed.

Upon the recommendation of the B&B, I had dinner at Lambert’s in Taos. It was excellent.

Tomorrow, I head for Caprock Canyons in Texas.

8 October 2016

These eight plus hour drives would be getting old except for the scenery you are driving through.  I normally don’t stop for photographs but one place was just too nice to pass up.

I also passed through a really neat little town called Pagosa Springs at the juncture of highway 160 and 84.  It was quaint and not too touristy and in the center of a national forest so there are plenty of opportunities for hiking.

In any case, I made it to Mesa Verde around 4:00 pm, did the visitor center and then headed out for my lodging for the night, Far View Lodge which really is in the middle of the park, so I had another 15 minute drive along the curvy curvy.
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The lodge is really the registration desk with restaurant, and bar but it overlooks the valley below.  The rooms are motel-like, each with their own view and they are quite modern with all the amenities except television which I have probably watched all of 2 hours the entire trip with most of that being Hurricane Matthew coverage.

I’m only here for the night.  Tomorrow I have the “700 Years Tour” from 8 am until noon of the park and I’m hoping that will take me to all the major sites, particularly the Long House.  If not, I have a little leeway in time to go to any site I miss before I head to Taos tomorrow.

7 October 2016

This past March, Nancy, Michel and I snowshoed Bear Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park.  You drive to the lake and the fasten your snowshoes and follow the guide to the lake up a small incline which nearly killed us.  Bear Lake is at an elevation of 9,450 feet.  Most hikers tell you elevation begins to affect you at 6,000 feet.

The walk around the lake is a little over 1/2 mile, but two years ago, we climbed up to Nymph Lake, a 255 foot increase in elevation to 9,705 feet.  We got to walk on the surface of both lakes which had frozen solid.

I wanted to revisit Bear and Nymph Lakes on this trip. Remember, I’ve been hiking at 7,000-8,000 plus feet of elevation on this trip, so I figured I would be up for it.

In getting to Bear Lake this morning, I ran into a traffic jam of elk.  Twice.  I parked in the Bear Lake parking lot with about 10 cars already there. I laced up my boots and was immediately out of breath.

I made the loop around Bear Lake and took in the spectacular scenery and then headed up the trail to Nymph Lake.

The trail is heavily used and as a consequence, the snow had been pounded into mush and then frozen over.  The trail was like an ice rink.  You had to be exceptionally careful in taking a single step.

After making it up the ice trail, I felt The lake looked smaller this time because it was not covered in snow.

From Nymph, you can continue upward to Dream Lake which many consider to be the most beautiful.  Again the ice trail.  I wasn’t too worried walking up but I had a bad feeling about walking down the same ice path.
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Dream Lake is at an elevation of 9,775 feet and even though I was hiking well, taking short breaks; it felt like someone was sitting on my chest.  I couldn’t get enough oxygen into my lungs.

From Dream Lake, a trail led ever upward to Emerald Lake at, for me, a record busting elevation of 10,110 feet above sea level.

It was windy at Dream Lake.  At Emerald, it was like being in a wind tunnel.  All us hikers took a couple of quick photos and then retreated to some shelter to defrost.

The walk down was tricky, tricky, tricky.  I think it took me more time to hike down than it did to hike up. I immediately decided my first task upon getting down off the mountain would be to purchase ice cleats for the boots.  I did later today.

I kept meeting more and more people on the trail and by the time I got to the parking lot, the lot was full and rangers were directing traffic.

The hike up to Emerald Lake was 1.8 miles, so round trip it was 3.6. Add to that 0.5 miles for Bear Lake and I did 4.1 miles at over 9,000 feet.  I feel pretty good about that.

I decided to head to the visitor center at the entrance and the traffic was backed up to get into the park all the way to Estes Park.  I purchased the ice cleats at Estes Park Mountain Shop where we rented snowshoes in March and they were 20% off! I decided to call it a day for hiking and headed to get some lunch.

Tomorrow is an 8 hour drive to Mesa Verde, Colorado.

6 October 2016

For some reason, I couldn’t get to sleep last night.  It must have been the drive I was facing the next day.  I got up around 5 am and after defrosting the jeep which had a coat of ice and snow on it, I was on the road by 7:40 am.

The clock in the jeep was reading 7:01 and then 7:02 and back and forth between the two.  I chalked it down to the cold weather (25F). The GPS routed me through Yellowstone and the Grand Teton which I thought correct.  Just as I hit the road to West Yellowstone Lake, the GPS went haywire.  It had me driving across Yellowstone Lake, cutting across country, and constantly recalculating the route.  It must have really been colder than the 25F reading of outside temperature.  Eventually, I pulled over and cut off the engine and restarted the jeep and everything was OK.

As I climbed to the Continental Divide in Yellowstone, I ran into snow and then a sign that said snow tires required.  I kept going.  Although I don’t have snow tires, they are rated all-weather.  I simply put the jeep in “snow” drive and kept going.

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The drive ended up being 10 1/2 hours and it’s the longest drive I’ve attempted on the trip, yet the jeep kept me very comfortable.  Whenever I got too tired, I pulled off and got out and walked around.

I hit snow in the passes all through Wyoming and then I started highway 34 to Estes Park through  Big Thompson Canyon.  This is a very impressive canyon!  I couldn’t stop since traffic was backed behind me and in front and there was construction on the road.

Tomorrow, I want to head to a bear Lake and rehike that.  The last time I did it was in the dead of winter with snow shoes!