27 April 2016
I got a great night of sleep and got up around 5 am. I puttered around the cabin and then went out on the porch to watch the sunrise over the valley below.
I pitched the tent on the deck to let it dry out and then left for Warm Springs to see if there was someplace open for breakfast. Nothing! The town is very small with only a few buildings. Restaurants only opened for lunch or dinner.
On my way to Warm Springs, I drove to Dowdell’s Knob and took in the view. You can understand why Roosevelt liked the place. The statue of him looks over the valley.
I drove around until 9 am when the Little White House was supposed to open and accidentally discovered the original pool used by FDR and those treated for polio. As I drove into the lot, the park ranger arrived. He was in a wheel chair and it was nice to see the state hires the handicapped. David introduced himself and we talked for a while, about the CCC, the New Deal, and what Roosevelt meant to the country. You could tell he wasn’t a fan of the current administration, nor did he think Roosevelt got the US out of the depression, but he was a big Roosevelt fan.
It was pretty emotional for me to tour the pool and the attached museum. They had an iron lung. People forget the devastation of polio and David and I got to talking how no one in their right mind thought mother’s collecting dimes would lead to anything. The pool is now drained and hasn’t been used since the 60’s but they had water bubbling like a fountain so you could test the temperature.
Admission was $10 for a senior and also entitled you to visit the Little White House. David suggested a back way that took you through the Warm Springs/Roosevelt institute. The place is massive.
By the time I got to the Little White House, bus loads of school kids had beat me there. The staff routed me around them. I got to see the house pretty much by myself along with a tour guide getting ready for the kids. The house looks small but is deceptively large.
A really poignant moment was seeing the desk at which Roosevelt had his stroke.
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Another great moment was seeing the unfinished portrait that was being done the moment of the stroke. That is in a separate exhibition hall. In talking with one of the personnel, Georgia has a plan to make all parks self sufficient. The Little White House has done so but there is only one full time person. Everyone else is part time or volunteer and they receive no benefits.
I returned to the cabin, packed my day pack with about 30 lbs and headed to the Wolfden Loop trail. It’s 6.7 miles and traverses a variety of terrains including 3 major waterfalls. I started a little after noon and finished the trail by 4:45 pm. I was pleased I completed the trail as a warm up for my Smokies trip. It gave me confidence I could do the Deep Springs/Martin Gap/Indian Creek loop. That entire trail is a little over 12 miles and I’ll have three days for it.
The Wolfden Trail is part of the 23 miles Pine Mountain Trail which is superbly maintained by the Pine Mountain Trail Association. The trail was very well marked and foot bridges were provided when ford crossing was too dangerous.
Regardless, I logged some 7 fords of streams with my trusty walking stick (50 years old – the stick, not me) to balance my way across.
The Mountain Laurel was in full bloom and often provided arbors over the trail. It was spectacular. I always have loved this plant. The stamens are inserted into the floral tube and when an insect lands to pollinate, they pop out of their pockets and powder the insect with pollen.
There was a good bit of climbing trail but the PMTA was good about using switchbacks so no trail was too steep. The increase in altitude was not great but you started out at around 1300 feet elevation.
Wildflowers were in profusion and the trail was not heavily used. I met a total of seven people and two dogs.
The water falls were especially nice. Cascade is the main fall most people hike to but the other two were equally nice.
I admit I was dragging towards the end. I made it back to the cabin, took a hot shower and headed to Pine Mountain and the Aspen Mountain Restaurant for a beer and a hot meal. It’s been a good day. Tomorrow is a drive to Asheville, NC.
