Aurora Borealis – Day 2 – 12 Mar 2016

Main Street Whitehorse, YT
Main Street Whitehorse, YT

After about 4 hours sleep, the day ahead looked rough. However, Whitehorse was ready for us. The girls debated whether to wear their parkas out for our breakfast excursion and one head outside the door sent them scurrying back to the room for them.

Breakfast was at a gem of a place called the 506 (for the address on main) run by a very small staff but one that turns out great eggs Benedict.

It doesn’t take much to walk around downtown. We did some shopping and I purchase a baklava for my head and a new wallet.  With the favorable exchange rate it was worth it.

Whitehorse has its homeless population. Within a two block location we were panhandled twice.  Only very reluctantly did one ask for money. Again, Canadians are so polite.  Little did they know we’re experts with Florida panhandlers.

We returned to the hotel and had a very light lunch and we all agreed we desperately needed sleep.  It was to no avail.  None of us could sleep.

Best Western Gold Rush Inn
Best Western Gold Rush Inn

Dinner was down the street at G&P Steakhouse and Pizza. We didn’t have reservations so we sat at the bar.  It was great.  All three ordered the 8 oz filet and it was absolutely delicious.

The reason for the trip is to view the Aurora. We met in the lobby and Toshi, Tom, and Khoon met us and loaded us onto a yellow school bus.  There were 32 of us with about 8 virgins. The rest were either on their second excursion or their final night of viewing.

One couple from Toronto had seen the lights last night and everyone rates their nights.  They were told the night before their first viewing was outstanding.  You’ll notice a trend here in a minute.

We were driven out of town approximately 30 km and deposited on a lakeside.  We were divided into two groups and each group had their own set of “cabins” –  in reality framed tents – and an outdoor privy and fire ring.  Inside the tent was a wood burning stove, hot coffee, tea and cocoa and snacks. You could roast marshmallows by the fire.
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After a brief introduction we were taken out on the lake.  Khoon suggested we use an ISO of 800-1600 with 20 second exposures if the Aurora is dim.  He said we may be looking at the Aurora now but only the camera would be able to pick it up as dim as it was. We all wondered if this was as good as it would get!

Around 11 pm I spotted some activity a little northeast of where Khoon suggested. Success! The camera picked it up.  It steadily built in intensity until you could see it pretty well with your eyes.  Later, it spread across the sky.

Our first good activity around 11pm
Our first good activity around 11pm

This was getting exciting! I kept clicking away.  For those who are interested, you set your camera to the “bulb” function which is the timed exposure. My wide angle lens only stops down to 4.0.  Most web sites on Aurora photography suggest f-stop of 2.0 but I had practiced at home and found my camera capable of night photography.  My wide angle is great with ISO so it worked well. You also need a tripod (a must) and an intervoltometer which is a fancy way to say remote shutter release. Actually, it’s a little more sophisticated in that you can also do time lapse photography over a period of programmed exposures and intervals.  My goal was to take 99 exposures of 20 seconds each every 10 seconds. Later, at home, I’ll try to use the exposures to produce a time lapse movie.  Here’s one of those exposures.

Activity around 1 am.
Activity around 1 am.

It quieted down activity-wise around 1:30 am.  In conversation with others, we found tonight’s activity not as good as last night’s (see the pattern) but tonight was more regular.  Looks like we’ll tell the same story to tomorrow’s virgins.

The temperature settled down to 24F and by the end of the viewing, my foot warmers were cooling off and my rosy cheeks were about to fall off. Not those cheeks, the ones on my face.

At 2 am the clocks shifted to DST so instead of departing at 2 am we departed at 3 am which means less sleep.  The good news was by 3 am, the band in the saloon was gone, the saloon was closed, the dog next door was asleep and the couple in the next room who played their tv all night had checked out! I slept like a baby for four hours and promptly awoke Fort Lauderdale time.

Today is a tour of Whitehorse, a trip to a nature preserve, a dip in the hot springs and a 10 pm departure for Aurora viewing!

 

Aurora Borealis via Whitehorse, Yukon Territory

This is another bucket list item and I found two friends willing to share the trip to Whitehorse to view the northern lights.  After reading up on the best places for viewing, Iceland and the Scandinavian countries kept coming up, but I have friends who went  those routes and were disappointed.

Alaska was OK but iffy with the consensus that Canada offered the best bet. Tops on the Canadian lists were Whitehorse and Yellowknife, both in the Yukon Territory.  Whitehorse guaranteed, if a clear night, 100% success so I recommended Whitehorse.

The tour I selected was with Brewster, a reputable company in western Canada and with whom I had experience last August.  A visit with AAA ironed out all the kinks and Michele, Nancy and I were ready to go.

Our flight departed Fort Lauderdale International at 6:30 am so I was up at 2:30 am to do my usual morning routine.  I used the Yellow Cab app to schedule a cab and it worked like a charm. The driver was actually a little early.

I had my passport and my newely in hand Global Entry Card which also pre-clears you with TSA, so security was a breeze.

Our connections were with Air Canada. We first flew to Montreal  (3 1/2 hours) where we cleared customs.  From there it was a long haul to Vancouver (6 hours) and then to Whitehorse (2 hours). Add on about 4 hours in terminals and my early morning wake up and you have my 19 hour day.

We touched down in Whitehorse at 8:25pm PT and the hotel had our ride awaiting. We had reservations at the Best Western hotel in downtown Whitehorse.

Well, it happens only with couples who are less familiar with the development online viagra of medical science or available treating alternative. The solutions are to be consumed depending on the severity of your dry eyes and the cause, there is a solution that is made for combating your impotence. viagra vs generic High blood pressure is also known as Indian Winter Cherry has the the price cialis Botanical name Withania Somnifera -It is a shrub belonging to Solanace family. As a result, hemospermia caused by seminal vesiculitis do has certain harm to men’s viagra side effects heath. It started out promising. The person who picked us up was Toshi from Northern Tales travel services, apparently subcontracted by Brewster. She had pre checked us into the hotel and had our key cards.  We parked out front and my first misgiving arose. The entrance to the lobby was also the entrance to the saloon.

Not only had Toshi gotten us our room key cards, but our winter clothing in neatly packed bags. She explained the downtown area, best places to eat (noticeably absent was any place in the hotel) and sights to see plus other tours through her company we could add on. She escorted us to our floor and the second omen appeared.

On the way to my room, a yappy dog started barking.  The dog continued uninterrupted for the next hour and a half. At least the dog mitigated the pounding bass music coming from the saloon downstairs.  I finally felt sorry for the dog and reported it to the front desk.  The gentleman at the desk said he would check.  More barking and a second call to the desk established that the woman with the dog was out, probably dining.  I asked if it were possible see was on an excursion to see the northern lights scheduled to return at 2:30 am and he assured me that was not the case.  The dog continued to bark.  Somewhere around 11 pm either the owner returned or the dog got laryngitis.

That’s when it became noticeable the walls are paper thin and my neighbor was playing their television to (1) either block the noise of the dog or (2) mitigate the pounding base music of the saloon or (3) mask the sounds of the drunks from the bar who spilled out on the street or (4) simply is used to sleeping with a tv on for background noise.

The saloon closed at 2:30 am and the drunks stayed out front for another 30 minutes (thank god it’s cold outside) and so, since 3 am, I’ve only had the tv next door to keep me awake.

I finally got up at 5 am and began to search for other hotels in Whitehorse. Others are either too far out of town or about the same as this.  This one is actually rated #3 in all of Whitehorse on Tripadviser. I intend to write my own review and call it a saloon and social club that rents rooms.

Hopefully, if I can function later, we depart at 10 pm for northern lights viewing to return at 2 am.

Itinerary

Here’s the itinerary for the trip.

DATE DAY DESTINATION DRIVING TIME Miles LODGING DETAILS CONTACT

Aug 29

1

Allen David Broussard Catfish Creek State Park, Haines City, FL

3h 7m

203.3

Primitive Camping Site 1 (1.7 miles from parking lot) Lake Kissimmee State Park (963) 696-1112

Aug 30

2

Torrey State Park, Bristol, Florida

5h 5m

344.5

Primitive Camping Site 1 (River Bluff Primitive Camp Site (850) 643-2674 (pay at either main office or Weeping Camp Ground

Aug 31

3

Tupelo, Mississippi

6h 34m

413.5

Reid Smith and Ann Newhouse (662) 213-6492 (R) (662)322-2719 (A)

Sep 1

4

Tupelo, Mississippi

Sep 2

5

Brandon, MS

2h 54m

187.2

Archie and Tanis (601) 942-7349 (A) (601) 946-4058 (T)

Sep 3

6

Brandon, MS

Sep 4

7

Lake Livingston State Park, Livingston, TX

6h 18m

400.8

Primitive Camping Briar Loop, Campsite with water 300 State Park Road 65 Livingston, Tx (936) 365-2201

Sep 5

8

Lost Maples State Natural Area, Vanderpool, Tx

5h 38m

354.7

Primitive Camping Try for campsite G or H Vanderpool, Tx (830) 966-3413

Sep 6

9

Lost Maples State Natural Area, Vanderpool, Tx Primitive Camping Try for campsite G or H Vanderpool, Tx (830) 966-3413

Sep 7

10

Big Bend National Park

6h 51m

382

Chisos Mountains Lodge Casa Grande Lodge with King Day hikes Chisos Mountains Lodge (877)386-4383

Sep 8

11

Big Bend National Park Chisos Mountains Lodge Casa Grande Lodge with King Day hikes Chisos Mountains Lodge (877)386-4383

Sep 9

12

Santa Fe, NM

9h 14m

548.2

Inn of the Turquoise Bear The Shaman Room Inn of the Turquoise Bear, 342 East Buena Vista St, Santa Fe

Sep 10

13

Santa Fe, NM

Sep 11

14

Grand Canyon National Park, South Rim

6h 55m

471.6

Bright Angel Lodge Stand Double, Shared Bath (928) 638-2631

Sep 12

15

Grand Canyon National Park, South Rim Bright Angel Lodge Stand Double, Shared Bath

Sep 13

16

Joshua Tree National Park

5h 58m

362.2

Primitive Camping Site without water $15, Site with water $20 Check back Mar 13 for reservations

Sep 14

17

Kings Canyon National Park

7h 5m

434.7

Grant Grove Cabin Queen bed, private bath Day hikes 86728 Hwy 180 Kings Canyon National  Park (559) 335-5500

Sep 15

18

Kings Canyon National Park Grant Grove Cabin Queen bed, private bath Day hikes 86728 Hwy 180 Kings Canyon National  Park (559) 335-5500

Sep 16

19

Parker House San Francisco

4h 52m

276.7

Parker House The Parker Guest House 520 Church Street, San Francisco

Sep 17

20

Parker House San Francisco San Francisco Opera Andrea Chenier The Parker Guest House 520 Church Street, San Francisco

Sep 18

21

Parker House San Francisco San Francisco Opera Dream of the Red Chamber The Parker Guest House 520 Church Street, San Francisco

Sep 19

22

Pt. Reyes National Seashore

1h 9m

42.3

Primitive Camping Try for Glen, Sky or Wildcat camp sites Mar 13 for reservations Pt. Reyes National Seashore, 1 Bear Valley Rd. Point Reyes Station (415) 464-5100

Sep 20

23

Pt. Reyes National Seashore Try for Glen, Sky or Wildcat camp sites Mar 13 for reservations, Day hikes Pt. Reyes National Seashore, 1 Bear Valley Rd. Point Reyes Station (415) 464-5100

Sep 21

24

Whiskeytown National Recreational Area

3h 58m

234.4

Primitive Camping Oak Bottom Campground Site A7 Oak Bottom Marina

Sep 22

25

Crater Lake

4h 41m

245.2

Primitive Camping Manama Campground Day hikes Crater Lake National Park (541) 594-2255

Sep 23

26

Crater Lake Primitive Camping Manama Campground Day hikes Crater Lake National Park (541) 594-2255

Sep 24

27

Multnomah Falls, Columbia River Gorge

5h 36m

310.9

Columbia Gorge Hotel Day hikes Columbia Gorge Hotel 4000 Westcliff Drive, Hood River, OR (541) 386-5566

Sep 25

28

Multnomah Falls, Columbia River Gorge Columbia Gorge Hotel Day hikes Columbia Gorge Hotel 4000 Westcliff Drive, Hood River, OR (541) 386-5566

Sep 26

29

Victoria, BC

6h 29m

276.6

Dashwood Manor Seaside Bed & Breakfast Dashwood Manor Seaside Bed & Breakfast, 1 Cook Street, Victoria, BC (800) 667-5517

Sep 27

30

Victoria, BC Dashwood Manor Seaside Bed & Breakfast Buchart Gardens Dashwood Manor Seaside Bed & Breakfast, 1 Cook Street, Victoria, BC (800) 667-5517

Sep 28

31

Olympic National Park

3h 8m

65.7

Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort Cabin, 1 king, bath Day hikes Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort, 12076 Sol Duc Hot Springs Road, Port Angeles (800) 204-3116

Sep 29

32

Olympic National Park Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort Cabin, 1 king, bath Day hikes Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort, 12076 Sol Duc Hot Springs Road, Port Angeles (800) 204-3116

Sep 30

33

Spokane, WA

7h 41m

437.3

The Davenport Lusso 1 king or queen, city view $17 on-site parking The Davenport Lusso, 808 West Sprague Avenue, Spokane (509) 747-9750

Oct 1

34

Glacier National Park

4h 56m

282.1

Grouse Mountain Lodge Standard with 2 queen beds, bath Day hikes Glacier Park, Inc, P.O. Box 2025, Columbia Falls, MT (406) 892-2525

Oct 2

35

Glacier National Park Grouse Mountain Lodge Standard with 2 queen beds, bath Day hikes Glacier Park, Inc, P.O. Box 2025, Columbia Falls, MT (406) 892-2525

Oct 3

36

Chico Hot Springs

6h 23m

369.1

Chico Hot Springs Resort Warren Wing, King with bath Chico Hot Springs Resort, 163 Chico Road, Pray MT (406) 333-4933

Oct 4

37

Yellowstone National Park

5h 16m

299.4

Madison Campground Primitive Camping (866) GEYSERLAND

Oct 5

38

Yellowstone National Park Madison Campground Primitive Camping (866) GEYSERLAND

Oct 6

39

Rocky Mountain National Park

9h 37m

521.9

Longs Peak Campground Primitive Camping, No reservations, 1st come, 1st serve Day hikes (877) 444-6777

Oct 7

40

Rocky Mountain National Park Longs Peak Campground Primitive Camping, No reservations, 1st come, 1st serve Day hikes

Oct 8

41

Mesa Verde

8h 10m

426.7

Far View Lodge Kiva Room, King
Mesa Verde 700 Years Tour (8am-12noon)

Oct 9

42

Taos, NM

5h 18m

255.7

Hacienda del Sol 1 hour massage Hacienda Del Sol, 109 Mabel Dodge Lane, Taos

Oct 10

43

Caprock Canyons State Park

6h 40m

407.0

tent Primitive Camping Quitaque, TX

Oct 11

44

Lake Mineral Wells State Park

4h 7m

259.1

tent Primitive Camping, water Mineral Wells, TX, 100 Park Road 71, (940) 328-1171

Oct 12

45

Little Rock, AK

5h 56m

401.3

Capital Hotel Capital Hotel, 111 West Markham, Little Rock (501) 374-7474

Oct 13

46

Hoover, AL

6h 11m

383.2

Robert & Lynn Buford

Oct 14

47

Hoover, AL

Oct 15

48

Greenville, FL

5h 28m

338.8

Stephanie Hurt

Oct 16

49

Fort Lauderdale

6h 16m

437.2

Total 177h 30m

10373.3

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How Times Have Changed!

IMG_0052
Back in the 70’s I used to hike the Appalachian Trail.  If you were winter camping and hiking, you were required to stop in a ranger station and have them approve your hike.  They then inspected your pack to make sure you carried all the appropriate gear.  Seems they did not look fondly on rescuing improperly prepared hikers.  My pack weighed in at 55 lbs.

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I did a dry run of packing my new Osprey Aether 70 pack today which included 3 liters of water, stove, 2 person tent, sleeping bag rated to 14ºF, air mattress, first aid kit, two days of food, and other sundry items.  It weighed in at 31 lbs!  Still, that’s a pretty good load for this out-of-shape old man but I’ll take the 14 lb difference in weight!

Camping and Backpacking Gear

The amount of gear I had to purchase was astounding.  It’s still coming in!  Here’s a list.  If you are really interested, I’ve provided the link with descriptions.

  1. Salomon Quest 4D II GTX Hiking Boots (I wore the old ones out in the Bugaboos.)
  2. Jetboil MiniMo Cooking System (it’ll 2 cups of water in 2 minutes)
  3. Sea to Summit X-Set 21 Cookset (For camping with the jeep at drive-in camp sites)
  4. Osprey Stratos 36 Pack (day hikes)
  5. Osprey Aether 70 Pack (for overnight hikes)
  6. Osprey Hydraulics Resevoir – 3 liter (innovative idea to carry water in your pack)
  7. Princeton Tech Tacitcal Quad Headlamp
  8. Sea to Summit Comfort Plus Sleeping Pad (air mattress that collapses to an incredibly small size)
  9. GSI Outdoors Pinnacle Camper Cookset
  10. Bodygluide Pocket-size Anti-chafe (no snide comments)
  11. Sea to Summit Traveller TR1 Sleeping Bag (for tropical camping)
  12. Sea to Summit CoolMax Adaptor Traveller Sleeping Bag Liner with Insect Shield
  13. Sea to Summit Talus TS II Sleeping Bag (good to 14F)
  14. Spenco 2nd Skin Blister Kit
  15. Sea to Summit Aeros Ultralight Pillow
  16. Sea to Summit Sleeping Mat Repair Kit
  17. REI Camper First-Aid Kit
  18. GSI Outdoors Ultralight Salt and Pepper
  19. Ultimate Survival Technologies BlastMatch Fire Starter
  20. NEMO Helio Pressure Shower (for those areas that don’t have showers but have water)
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  22. Sea to Summit Alpha Utensil Set
  23. Packtowl Personal Towel
  24. REI Bakcpacker Weekend First Aid Kit
  25. UCO Stormproof Matches
  26. Counter Assault Bear Deterrent Spray (How do you tell black bear poop from grizzly poop?  Black bear poop is purple with blueberries.  Grizzly poop smells like peppers and has bells in it. See next item.)
  27. Counter Assault Bear Bell
  28. Jetboil Crunchit Recyling Tool
  29. REI Sahara Tech Long-Sleeve Shirt
  30. REI Sahara Convertible Pants with No-Sit Zips
  31. REI Sahara Tech Short Sleeved Shirt
  32. Joby GorillaPod Hybrid Camera Tripod to take photos for the blog
  33. Gerber Gorge Folding Shovel
  34. REI Nalgene Narrow-Mouth Loop-Top Water Bottle
  35. GSI Outdoors Cathole Sanitation Trowel for burying my poop
  36. Convert 2 four-season tent from SierraDesigns I really like this tent.  If you put it up in the rain, the inside stays dry because all the supports are outside.
  37. DriDown Sweater from Sierra Designs
  38. Elite Cagoule Rainwear from Sierra Designs
  39. Elite Cagoul Chaps (rainwear)
  40. Outdoor Research Revolution Men’s Gloves
  41. Dehydrated food for several weeks on the trail

Greetings!

Welcome to my blog.  As you know, I’ll be driving cross country beginning the last week in August, through September and into October.  My goal is to keep a daily blog of my adventures out west.  This has been a dream of mine for many years but, as life has it, it has been deferred until now.

Last August, I joined a Tauck group for a “heli”hiking tour of the Bugaboos, a region of the Purcell Mountain range in British Columbia.  Every morning a helicopter would deposit a group of 12 or 14 people somewhere in the Bugaboos.  We would hike all morning, eat lunch in some of the most beautiful scenery anywhere, and continue hiking in the afternoon.  The helicopter would return and pick us up for dinner in the evening.  Most of this was at an elevation of around 7,000 feet.  This trip gave me the confidence to try my hand at camping and backpacking across the country.  In reality, some of the nights will be in the comfort of bed and breakfasts and old lodges, and hotels, but I’ll have my share of primitive camping.

In getting ready, I was surprised at how backpacking and camping gear had changed.  Twenty-one years ago, I was properly outfitted but you’ll be amazed at what 21 years of dry rot will do to gear.  I had to completely re-gear.  The cost was surprising (some things cheaper than you imagine and others far more expensive) but what really startled me was the advances made in gear.  It is lighter, more durable, and definitely more inventive than when I last backpacked any significant distance.
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Since I’m new to this blogging thing and I’m learning the software as I go, I’ll do a few test runs of three other shorter trips: Lakeland, Florida to tour  Florida Southern College’s Frank Lloyd Wright architecture with side trip to Mount Dora, Floria; a trip to Whitehorse in Yukon Territory to see the aurora borealis (I hope) and a trip to Warm Springs, Georgia to visit FDR’s little white house.