Cross Country Tour – Day 7

4 September 2016

It’s a good thing I made reservations for Lake Livingstone! When I pulled into the park office, there was a sign on the door that said “No Vacancy.” This is a large park and it is packed with picnickers, boaters, bbqers, and people like me in tents, although theirs tend to be a little larger than mine.

It's a busy place.
It’s a busy place.

I pulled led out of my brother and sister-in-law’s house in Brandon, Ms around 7:40 am and pulled into Lake Livingstone around 3:30 pm.  It was mostly four lane all the way and Texas has a speed limit of 75 mph on most four lane roads, which is good or you would never get anywhere.

All my ducks in a row!
All my ducks in a row!

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Lake Livingstone.
Lake Livingstone.

The primitive camping area is fairly nice.  At least they didn’t put pea gravel down in the tent side like the Smokey Mountains! Also, they anticipate family camping and each primitive spot has two paved parking spots and water.  Unfortunately, the mosquitoes are worse than Florida.  Instead of me transmitting Zika, I’ll probably bring back the Texas TwoStep disease transmitted by their mosquitoes.

Campsite G at Lake Livingstone State Park.
Campsite G at Lake Livingstone State Park.

Tonight’s meal is lasagna with meat sauce.  It is probably not as good as Betty’s, not that I would know – she saves that for her boys.

Cross Country Tour – Day 6

Mississippi River Bridge at Vicksburg.
Mississippi River Bridge at Vicksburg.

3 September 2016

Tanis went to play bridge and to leave us two boys alone.  She’s a lifetime master and one of the best players in the state. Several years ago, she helped host (was the chairperson) of an international tournament in Jackson, MS.

Archie and I got into his sports convertible and tooled over to Vicksburg, MS and then crossed the river to Monroe, LA. Just as you get off the bridge and head north toward the very small town of Delta, is a bar called The World.  It’s a dive personified but Archie swears it has the best hamburgers for a hundred miles.  It was pretty good.  On the way over we reminisced over the many trips we had made to Vicksburg as both kids and adults.

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One neat portion of the trip was when we got off on old, old highway 80.  Not the one I traveled to Brandon but the older version of that.  We traveled through the very well maintained and picturesque community of Bovina where Tanis grew up.

Tonight we ate ate an old standard restaurant in Jackson in business since 1956 called Crechales, known for their seafood and they say, prime steaks.  Their menu states that only 5% of beef is graded prime and they say no restaurants serve it but them.  I had snapper topped with lump crab and it was pretty good.

Tomorrow, I head off to Lake Livingstone, Texas for one night.

Cross Country Tour – Day 5

2 September 2016

I slept a little late this morning – too much wine the night before during the party.  Ann prepared a great breakfast and too soon it was time to get on the road.  I can’t express how much I appreciate what Ann and Reid did for me by hosting the party of old (yes, we’re all old) colleagues.

I took highway 45 south out of Tupelo and headed to Meridian, MS, my birthplace.  I was born in St. Joseph’s hospital on 12th Street and 28th Avenue (it’s been gone for years). My dad was fond of telling how he had to sell his prize calf to bail me out of the hospital.

Meridian holds many memories. My maternal grandmother liked to dine out on Sundays for dinner (that’s lunch to you non-Southerners – the evening meal is called supper). She rotated the restaurants and about once every two months, we’d drive 90 miles to Meridian from Morton on old highway 80 and dine at Weidmann’s on 22nd Avenue.  Other venues included the Gulf Cafe in Morton and the Heidelburg Hotel in Jackson.

Weidmann’s is fine dining at its Southern best. I had my first prime rib there and when asked how I wanted it prepared, said medium. Fortunately the chef was smart enough to send it out rare and with horseradish.

Weidmann's Restaurant in Meridian, MS - my birth town.
Weidmann’s Restaurant in Meridian, MS – my birth town.

Weidmann’s was established in 1870 and until the 1990’s never closed their doors, even for Christmas.  After that, they did close holidays and the place really closed in 2010. It has since reopened and maintains its previous elegance.

Interior of Weidmann's.
Interior of Weidmann’s.

One peculiarity, they didn’t serve bread unless you ordered it.  Instead, on every table was a hand made crock of homemade peanut butter with a stack of crackers.  I have one of the crocks at home, but alas, the peanut butter is gone.  They are known for the original black bottom pie.  I have the recipe.  Let’s just say that bourbon is featured prominently in the recipe.

Weidmann's famous black bottom pie.
Weidmann’s famous black bottom pie.

From Meridian, I headed west on I 20 to Pulaski, MS, so named for the revolutionary war general. This was my dad’s birthplace and he grew up there and went to school in a one room school house where his mother was the teacher.  My paternal grandparents lived “out of town” from Pulaski on Searcy Hill in a dog trot house built in 1885 by my dad’s grandfather.

Paternal grandparents' dog trot house built in 1885 and the birthplace of my dad, Uncle Ray and Aunt Sue.
Paternal grandparents’ dog trot house built in 1885 and the birthplace of my dad, Uncle Ray and Aunt Sue.

For those who don’t know, a dog trot house is built with a long hallway open to air with rooms on either side.  There was always a breeze through the opening and dogs liked the coolness and shade, thus the name. The house had three fire places and the kitchen had a wood burning stove. The outhouse was a two seater and toilet paper was corn cobs from that year’s harvest.

I always wondered why we never had hot food when I visited on weekends.  Much later, I realized how smart grandmother was.  She got up at 4 am and cooked all three meals of the day before the sun rose – trust me, you don’t want to use a wood burning stove in the summer!

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Sign for Searcy Cemetery on Searcy Hill.
Sign for Searcy Cemetery on Searcy Hill.
Parents' graves in Searcy Cemetery.
Parents’ graves in Searcy Cemetery.
My paternal grandparents first child who died at childbirth.
My paternal grandparents first child who died at childbirth.

I then traveled 481 north to Morton where I spent most of my formative years. I stopped at the Morton Cemetery to see my maternal relatives.

Main Street, Morton, MS..
Main Street, Morton, MS..
My maternal grandparents' graves.
My maternal grandparents’ graves.

The last stop in Morton was the most important in relation to this trip. As a kid, my parents,off and on, lived with my grandmother after my grandfather died, or I was always sleeping there with my grandmother even though we had our own house.

My maternal grandparents house in Morton, MS next to highway 80.
My maternal grandparents house in Morton, MS next to highway 80.

I would lay awake there at night and listen to the transfer trucks roar westward on highway 80 which fronts the house.  This was before Mississippi had any interstates and highway 80 was, at the time, the only highway that ran from the east coast to the west coast.  You can imagine the traffic on this two lane road!

Then there’s the story of me and my cousin Jimmie getting “arrested” by the chief of police, Lauris Sessums, for playing in the highway.

I used to dream of pulling out of my grandmother’s driveway one day and heading west to New Mexico, Arizona, California, Oregon and Washington. I can tell you this was the beginning of my trip today.  Now I get to attempt my dream.

With the graveyard visits, the “official” start of my trip, and getting to see my brother Archie, his wife Tanis, and a surprise visit with my niece Ashley, it’s been an emotional, yet satisfying day.

Tanis prepared a wonderful dinner for us all with Archie doing the ribs on the grill. Later, we watched the local Brandon Bulldogs lose to the visiting Clinton Arrows by a touchdown, thanks to the Internet and live streaming of the game.  Small town America is now high tech!

Cross Country Tour -Day 4

1 September 2016

What a day!  We started with Ann’s breakfast of hash browns, bacon, green pepper, and egg pie with biscuits and home made jelly of honey and Chianti.  It was delish.

Reid and I left Tupelo and headed to Fulton for a visit at Itawmaba Community College (formerly IJC) to meet up with a few friends from bygone days when I taught there.  We walked into the administration building and sitting there to greet us was Mike Eaton, President of the college and Billy Todd.  Mike was the football coach while I was there and he and I used to jog together. Billy was a guidance counselor and later board member. Mike gave all three of us ICC baseball caps and we sat their and remenanced over old times.

The college had grown from about 1200 students in my day to 5800 on 3 campuses.  Virtually all of the old buildings I taught in were gone and new buildings and dorms were all over the place.  ICC has the largest online curriculum of any community college in the state and is now one of the fastest growing.  It was great to see the success of the college.

I got to visit with Steve Miller, director of food services for ICC and two other community colleges in north Mississippi.  I knew his dad when he had Steve’s position over 30 years ago with only ICC as his charge. Steve was more my age then and we hit it off immediately and we have been life long friends since. His dad, when in charge, never charged me for a meal in the cafeteria when I taught there because he knew how little I made in salary as a beginning faculty member.

Steve and I used to hike and camp and we hung out together when I managed the men’s dorm.  We also did some decided illegal things during those times which, in retrospect, seem tame but were not at that time.  We had a great visit.  Steve and I even went to Europe later when I first hired in at Broward College.  He’s been a loyal, true friend.

Later, Reid and I dropped in on his daughter Carol who was baby sitting her grandchild and we relived old times.  Carol was closer to me in age of this three daughters and one son.  She now lives south of Fulton in Smithville which was pretty much wiped out by a tornado a few years ago.
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From there, we returned to Tupelo and visited the ICC campus which will probably overtake the Fulton campus in years to come.  I didn’t recognize that campus either – it had grown so much.

We returned to Reid and Ann’s place to get ready for the party. Reid’s second daughter Terry came by and we got to relive old times.

We had no idea how many people would show up for the party but Ann had everything planned to a fault. I know you are not interested in the people who came but administrators and faculty from my era showed up.  At the time, we were like family and even though all but one had retired, it was like we were at the old faculty lounge again rehashing the same topics. It was gratifying for them, me, and Reid and Ann. We had all aged a little, gained a little weight, and all of us had our medical issues, but in reality, we had not changed much.  This was one of the greatest group of people I’ve ever worked with.

Mississipi State and Ole Miss sent students who they wanted to succeed but were challenged academically to ICC to be taught by our physics professor and our chemistry professor because they knew if the students could learn under Jim and Herb, they would succeed at their institutions. They were that good.

All total, 11 administrators and faulty showed up along with Reid’s son Mark. It was nostalgic, touching, and very much fun. These were the people that molded me as a community college professor and to whom I will always be indebted. I can’t thank Reid and Ann enough for all their work and effort to make this a success.

Tomorrow I leave for a visit with my brother in Brandon, MS.

Cross Country Tour – Day 3

31 August 2016

It’s amazing how a hot shower revives the soul. I slept very soundly and awoke refreshed and ready to hit the road.  The Fairfield breakfast was pretty standard and lasted me until 9:30 am when the McDonald’s craving kicked in. I wanted a coffee and cinnamon roll.  Alas, the McDonalds in Dothan, AL no longer served cinnamon rolls so I opted for the much healthier egg McMuffin.

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Time to Tupelo was a little over six hours via Montgomery and Birmingham.  My first surprise was there is an entirely new interstate from Birmingham to Memphis through Tupelo – I 22 that was not in existence 31 years ago when I taught at Itawmaba Junior College (now ICC). I missed the old highway 78 with its quirky little towns and scenery, but I have to admit I 22 scenery was pretty spectacular.  This part of Alabama and Mississippi is referred to as the foothills of the Appalachians and the new interstate showed it off to perfection – beautiful rolling hills (or what what we refer to as mountains in South Florida).

The patient need not spend much time in the hospital after the linked here generic levitra online surgery and is usually allowed to go home within 24-48 hours. Chlamydia is one deeprootsmag.org generic cialis online of the major causes of sexual dysfunction in men. According to Envisional, there are numerous prescription medicines that are professional viagra online approved. It is available in powder, tea, oil and viagra cialis generic other forms to gain major health benefits. I pulled into Ann and Reid’s driveway a little after 3 pm and immediately fell into the catch-up mode of our lives.  I’ve know Reid for over 40 years and he’s been retired for 31 of those years.  He was my best friend when I taught at IJC and has remained steadfast over the years.  I met Ann four years ago when she and Reid came to Fort Lauderdale for a visit and I helped Ann spend Reid’s money on Las Olas.

We headed to The Grille in Tupelo for dinner and drinks.  Tupelo is I unrecognizable to me which is so strange since I spent so much time here when I taught in Fulton at IJC all those years ago.  (You could buy alcohol in Lee county but not Itawamba).  It’s a big city now with new construction everywhere.  The restaurant was at the site of the old fair grounds which was on the outskirts of the town way back when.  It’s now wall-to-wall shops and a new arena for large venues of entertainment.

Some of you may know Tupelo was Elvis’ birthplace.  When I was here from 1979-1984, it was just one little shack with one little sign.  Elvis still had iffy morals back then with all that hip action when he sang.  Today, it’s a massive area where tourists (especially British – don’t ask me, the French fever Jerry Lewis) flock en masse.  Tupelo milks it for all it is worth.

Tomorrow Reid and I will visit Fulton and ICC and some old friends there. Later that afternoon, Reid and Ann are hosting a party of faculty and students during my years at the college at their place. The memories wash over me.  Reid used the old college annuals of my years at IJC (5 years) and invited everyone he thought I would remember.  Sadly, the list of deceased was pretty long but it will be really good to see compatriots and former students during those years.  I suspect a little booze will also be imbibed during the reunion.

Day 2 Follow Up to the Follow Up

No rain, no stormy weather, no nothing. Looks like Dark Skies (and I ) over reacted. I didn’t dream the National Weather Service warning or the effective dates of the notice. Now http://amerikabulteni.com/2013/02/11/pope-benedict-xvi-is-to-resign/ cheapest viagra let’s see how ED is linked with cigarette smoking. Your fear and the reluctance to cure the problem of erectile dysfunction, or impotence in the first place wasn’t even in anyone’s mind until a decade ago, when amerikabulteni.com get viagra no prescription was approved for public use. Ignorance of canadian levitra online medical help take their condition to the next level. When one speaks of cialis tablets 100mg a medical solution for the condition of impotence issue yet. Too bad, I would have liked to have spent the night at the site.  Instead, air conditioned room in Mariana.

Day 2 Follow Up

I should have know better.  My brother called wanting to know where I was.  He was worried about the tropical storm.  The park ranger cautioned me about the weather.  Carol texted me about the weather.

Dark Skies and the Apple Weather App both said everything was fine for Bristol, Fl where Torreya is.  Slight chance of rain, low of 72F, clear in the morning.

I was just about to turn in when I checked Dark Skies one more time.  Their forecast was the same but there was a statement in red about a tropical storm for Bristol, Fl!  I read the National Weather Service alert several times.  They were predicting 2-4 inches of rain and up to 57 mile an hour winds.  Possibility of tornados.  All in effect until 8pm tonight until 4 pm tomorrow.


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Tonight! I was stunned to say the least.

The rain was no worry but the wind definitely was.  My tent is rated to 50 mph and then it begins to shred.  I agonized over the decision but I decided to hike out. I  broke camp in record time and hiked out in the dark. I made it to the jeep by 8:40 EDT.  even though the park is in CDT, the jeep had not switched over.

I made it to a Fairfield Inn in Mariana, Fl and immediately took a shower.  Let’s just say they will have to throw away the wash cloth tomorrow when I check out.  I was a little grimy.

So far, no rain, no wind, no tornados.

Cross Country Tour – Day 2

30 August 2016

I awoke around 6:30 am and had a quick cold breakfast of granola and blue berries with milk (just add water). I was packed (wet tent and all) and out of the campsite by 7:50 am.  Whoever said this is the toughest hike in Florida was right. Not a dry stitch on me by the end of the hike – and this was all before 9 am.  You climbed the ridge four different times in loose sand.

I did have a start during breakfast. A wild hog appeared behind the campsite and didn’t notice me until I made a noise. Fortunately for me, the hog went the other way. I couldn’t get a picture but it was pure black.

I waited until I got back to the jeep for my morning constitutional since the parking lot has a port-a-potty. Just as an aside, I panicked for a minute when I was in camp. I thought I had left the TP in the jeep but found it in the Bear Barrel. In any case, I shed the wet clothes in the port-a-potty and put on dry for the trip to Torreya State Park

The drive from Broussard to Torreya State Park was was about 6 hours with pit stops and lunch. I checked in with the ranger at the historic Gregory House, paid my fees, and the took at look at the Apalachicola River that the house overlooks.

Gregory House
Gregory House

Apalachicola River from Gregory House
Apalachicola River from Gregory House

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Just as you exit the entrance to the grounds of the house, they have 4 or 5 Torreya trees growing, the purpose of my visit. These trees are found nowhere else in the world and are probably the most primitive native living tree in the US. They are gymnosperms and people used to use them as Christmas trees.  There population has dwindled to 200 and the park is instrumental in propagating the species so it won’t die out.

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The hike to the campsite was much nicer than yesterday. The trails are exceptionally well marked and part of the system is roadbed. I’m in campsite 1 of Rock Bluff Overlook and I look out over a length of the Apalachicola River. It was worth the hike over a little over a mile.

Dinner tonight is chicken with noodles. I’ll probably turn in early and set out for Tupelo as soon as I pack out and maybe sneak a shower in the non-primitive campground. I’m a little rank right now – so much so the mosquitoes don’t want anything to do with me.

Campsite 1 on Rock Bluff
Campsite 1 on Rock Bluff

According to the local forecast, there is a slight chance of rain tonight. Conditions deteriorate by tomorrow afternoon but I hope to be in Tupelo, MS by then.

Cross Country Tour – Day 1

29 August 2016

The day started with finishing up little things around the house: take out the garbage, final wash of clothes, put clean sheets on the bed for my return, fasten the hurricane shutters.  It was the last one that nearly got me.  I cleaved my skull with one of the Bahama shutters (just joking) but it hurt anyway.

I pulled out of the driveway at 11:20 am and made it to Haines City then Allen David Broussard Catfish Creek Preserve State Park (it has to be the longest name for a park) and pitched camp after a 2.3 mile hike into the campsite.  It was supposed to only be 1.7 but my Garmin GPS says otherwise.

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The trail is mostly fine sand road bed which makes for difficult walking. Fortunately it had rained earlier in the day and the sand was a little more compact than usual.  Several hikers have written this is the most difficult hike in Florida and I suspect the dry sugar sand would be a challenge. It certainly was a sweaty hike.

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One problem is the trail is marked but poorly and it is one of the more complicated systems I’ve run into.  My map said to begin with the red and white trail through markers 1, 2, 3, and 4. Then to shift to red and white trail markers 12, 11, 10, and 9.  Next follow the white and blue trail to markers 24, 23, and 21 to campsite 1.  Most of the markers were not numbered and you could not tell when the trail forked where the next marker would be. In spite of all odds, I found the campsite.

Just before the campsite I dropped my pack and walked to the ridge line of the Lake Wales Ridge.  It was a nice panoramic view from the top.  This is where you will need to come when the sea rises as it was the only place not under water in previous high water eras.  The Lake Wales Ridge is sometimes referred to as islands, which they were when Florida was under water.

At the top of the ridge is a monument to Allan David Broussard. He was a biologist and avid birder and it is a very nice memorial to him. Truth be told, I had never heard of him before. It is a little strange to see such a nice memorial in the middle of nowhere.

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Dinner tonight is Shepherd’s Potato Stew with Beef.  Just add boiling water and yum.  I suspect I’ll hear thunder all night and frogs croaking their mating calls.

Home sweet home!
Home sweet home!

Day Before D-Day

28 August 2016

The jeep is all packed and I’m ready to go.  I need to add a few things to the backpack before I depart tomorrow.  I hope to leave around 10 am so as to beat the traffic on I-95.  My first night will be at Allen David Broussard Catfish Creek Preserve State Park unless Tropical Low 99 follows me up the state.  I’ve already decided if it is pouring down rain when I get to the state park, I’ll pitch camp in a motel in either Haines City of Lakeland, Florida.  I don’t mind sleeping in the rain, hiking in the rain, but I do draw the line at setting up camp in the rain except on an emergency basis.

Tomorrow has been a long time coming.  I’ve been planning this trip for a year and seriously working on the logistics for 6 months.  I think I’ve covered everything, dotted the “i’s” and crossed the “t’s” so to speak.  The only place I don’t have reservations is Joshua Tree National Park but they don’t take reservations until October.  They assume you have to be an idiot to camp out at Joshua Tree in September where the temperature has been running around 101-106 F during the day.  The only consolation is night time temps are around 69-70F.
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I’ll try to post my first trip blog sometime tomorrow after I set up camp and get everything situated.  I’ll also try to include a few photos of the area.  Until then, adieu.