I’ve been coming to the Smokies since I was a little kid. Dad took a photo of my mother, my brother Archie and me (in pajamas) somewhere in the park. I figure I was around 4 or 5.
Mom, Archie, and me in pajamas. I remember I got got car sick from the curves.
I remember the tunnels, especially because back then if you stopped in a tunnel and honked your horn, it would sound like it was raining in the tunnel. Of course, you cannot do that today. You would be rammed from behind by a car following you. The Smokies are far and way the most visited park in the U.S.
I’ve been to quite a few national parks and each has its own beauty and charm, but to me, the Smokies are special. The Appalachian chain is much older geologically than anything out west and it has a mature beauty – a comfortable feel when you travel through the park. I honestly think it the most beautiful drive anywhere in the world.
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Archie clowning for the camera.
The trip out of Gatlinburg gave emphasis to the name of the place. There were several patches of fog hanging around and plenty of the “smoke” from the killer trees Reagan spoke about. There were a couple of times when I rounded a bend or curve and the fog cleared and the horizon opened up for a spectacular view of the rolling, rounded peaks and it simply took your breath away.
Archie and Mom playing around for the camera.
I will never tire of the Smokies. It’s been a part of my life as long as I can remember and will always return. It nourishes the soul in a way nothing can.
Hammock sleeping is interesting. You keep slipping down where your feet are higher than your head. It could be the slickness of the fabric. How the fabric withstands the pressures amazes me. The hammock and fly is 2 lbs lighter than my tent but yet seems as strong. I also realized the sleeping bag in the hammock was not enough. There’s the old rule of camping of having more under you than on top of you. The temperature dipped into the 50’s and my back got cold because I compressed the down. Next time, I’ll use the air mattress with the sleeping bag to give a little more insulation. However, I got a good nights sleep.
Around 4:30 am, it started lightning and thundering. I counted the time between lightning and thunder and divided by 5 (gives you the distance in miles) and fortunately, it was moving away. I got up around 6:30 am and packed up, had a breakfast bar, did my ablutions, and hit the trail. I had planned to go back to the Deeplow Trail junction (0.4 miles) and got a little confused with the trail signs. I needed to hike another mile to get to the trail to Martin’s Gap where I would rejoin the Deep Creek Trail for a camp at site 58. The total distance would be another 4.3 miles. I got to the trail head and whimped out.
Unnamed falls along Indian Creek Trail.
The day before had drained me. Eight miles for this old body, all uphill, is too tough. I can give a lot of excuses: rain forecast, poor trail signage, an all uphill day, running out of water, etc. but the reality is 6 miles a day is about my limit. I hiked back down the Indian Creek Trail. That was approximately four miles downhill, and I could tell I was dragging even with the downhill. It was a good decision. Later in the day, it probably got a huge downpour, even though I was prepared for rain.
I got to the jeep, loaded up and headed to Gatlinburg. When I go to the Smokies, I like to stop at Clingman’s Dome (highest point) then Newfound Gap, and then Gatlinburg. The way is via Cherokee, NC and the last time I was through Cherokee, it was very run down. Gambling seems to have made a difference. It looks better, and even the old tourist stops have improved their look. The play Unto These Hills is still playing I think I saw it when I was 8 years old.
I have backpacked with Charlie Cooper out of Clingman’s Dome, so it’s always a little nostalgic. We hiked a ridge from there that was a sheer drop on either side and would get your blood pressure elevated.
Newfound Gap sign.
Whenever I took students to the Smokies, we would always stop at Newfound Gap for a photo op, particularly at the memorial for the Civilian Conservation Corps.
Honoring the CCC’s contribution to the park at Newfound Gap.
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Hikers at the AT trailhead.
The one place I didn’t stop was at Chimney Tops, my favorite hike in the Smokies. Cars were parked all along the road to the trail and the parking lot was full. There must have been 50 people on that trail.
Crag Knox and I hiked it one winter where we took two steps forward and slipped one back because of the iced trail. Two young teenagers passed us and we asked them if they had hiked the trail before. They said they were Chimney Tops virgins but grandma, just down the trail, hikes it several times a year. We were much chagrined with our slipping and sliding.
Another year, Charlie Cooper and I did something really stupid. The Chimney tops are called chimneys because they form two perfect chimneys or flues. We decided to repel down using just our hands and legs to brace us against the sides. Unfortunately, they widen as you go down and if you drop, it’s about a 100 foot fall. We made it, but we’re lucky. It’s also illegal which we found out later. About halfway down I dropped my walking stick and it fell the 100 feet and I thought it was gone forever. Amazingly, I found it at the bottom.
Gatlinburg looks a lot like it used to. It’s a little more touristy, but it always has been. It is still that way but is still neat. I always think of taffy here. As a kid, my parents always bought salt water taffy. The store is still in business!
I found a decent rate at the Park Vista, a DoubleTree by Hilton. It’s at the top of a mountain and I’m on the tenth floor with a mountain view. The hotel is old and not particularly well run, but the view is to die for.
View from my hotel room in Gatlinburg.
I head out for home tomorrow with a stop in Tifton, GA for the night.
What I’ve learned on this trip is that I’m best with day hikes and two nights in a tent or hammock is my limit. Personal hygiene suffers, particularly when there are no showers at Deep Creek. This was ok in my 20’s but less so in my 60’s. Six miles is a long day, not to mention 8.3. I drink water like a salt water fish. I almost emptied a three liter water source in one day and had a sparse amount to last two more days. I could always boil the stream water and I did have a filter, but that was for emergencies. After all that water, I peed constantly after setting up camp. The deer was happy.
The morning started with a peal of thunder. It was around 5 am and I decided to get everything packed and in the car before it rained. I was at the Deep Creek Trail head by 7:23 am and on the trail by 7:30. I decided to hike to Juney Whank Falls ( yea, I know, what a name) before starting the trail. It was a steep climb and a good test for what was to come. The falls are only 0.3 miles but it is all up hill. Then it’s 0.3 down again.
Juney Whank Falls.
After viewing the falls, I decided to do the Juney Whank loop trail which ties into Indian Creek, my main destination today. It was a mile loop. One half was quite a climb. I met some park workers clearing the trail and doing upkeep. Their day stated at 7 am and ends at 5 pm and everything needed for trail maintenance had to be packed in. Let’s just say they were physically fit. All spoke and when questioned, loved their job.
Juney Whank Loop.
Once on the Indian Creek Trail (a rocky road in reality) I began a steady climb. Interestingly, two joggers passed me. It’s a popular jogging trail.
I break off to Indian Creek Trail.
Indian Creek joins the Deeplow Trail (a misnomer if ever there was one) which carries me to campsite 51. Again all up hill. I made it to the campsite by 12:30 so I had been hiking for five hours. It ensures continued flow of blood and help to enjoy rock hard erection for deeper penetration into her. viagra levitra online The fruit is also a more natural form of caffeine that gives you an energy boost but unlike, say coffee for example, you dont get the cialis sale jitters just more energy and for longer periods of time. All of this could take some time to think about the type of card that would sum buying tadalafil tablets up your baby shower party. Unfortunately it did not display sildenafil tablets 50mg remarkable efficiency versus angina pectoris and hypertension.
I’ve learned not to be in a hurry uphill. Small steps and frequent rest stops and water breaks. As it happens, I hiked 8.3 miles today. Still it was a tough day. I didn’t have a dry stitch on me. I also haven’t bathed in two days and I smell a little rank. No even the bugs want me.
I found two suitable trees and hung the hammock. Dinner tonight is Cana Masala!
Campsite 51 with my hammock.
I decided to rest a little in the hammock and after a while I needed to find a bush. As I got out of the hammock, there was a doe not ten feet from me, calmly eating. She didn’t bolt but kept on eating and then calmly walked away.
Doe at campsite 51.
Later, I realized the deer was as the spot I had chosen to relieve myself. Apparently, it was the salt in my urine she was after. TMI!
The campsite had bear protection for your food. It was really neat. A metal cable about 15 feet above ground had pulleys with wires and hooks to lift your food away to protect from roaming bears. It’s the best system I’ve seen. I simply raised my entire pack.
I never can sleep well the first night. I think I got around 4 hours. The biggest problem was I couldn’t find my inflatable pillow (yes, it’s luxurious camping) and I had to make do without it. Good news! I found it just in time for tonight.
It’s interesting what you forget. I meant to bring a towel, wash cloth and soap for the campground. I stopped in Tifton, GA and found most of what I needed at the Walmart market and the rest at Fred’s Dollar Store. Didn’t know they were still around. Deep Creek has no shower. Oh well, at least I have it for the next time.
The welcome center on the outside of Bryson City is the nicest I’ve seen. It’s what they all should be. They had rhododendron and dogwood blooming in profusion all around the place with a very nice gift shop inside.
Welcome Center near Bryson City, NC.
I took SR 28 into Bryson City. This is a very fun road to drive with twists, turns, “S” curves, and sheer drop offs all the way in to town. I put on the “Will the Circle Be Unbroken” album by the Nitty Gritty Dirt Band and cruised in with mountain music.
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Deep Creek Campground.
Now, the campground is much expanded to include group camps, picnic area, bathrooms (nonexistent then) and a ranger cabin. All the roads are paved. It took me a while to find the trail head. Fortunately, they did not pave that.
Deep Creek.
The forecast tonight, tomorrow and Thursday is 57F with possibility of rain and thunderstorms all three days. I wouldn’t have it any other way.
No posts for the next two nights. Nonexistent signals.
I got away from the house just before 10 am and fought with the GPS which wanted me to go via I95 instead of directly to the Florida Turnpike. It was pretty much 70 mph all the way on the Turnpike and then I75 except the last few miles. I cranked out 436 miles in a little over 7 hours with rest stops. No traffic tie ups and I was probably the slowest on the road.
The campsite is nice. Again, new restroom/shower facility. It seems Florida and Georgia are really upgrading their facilities. I finally figured out that only specific spots in the campground are for tents. The first clue was a tent with the circle/cross through it. You go register with a “host” in the campground who is camping just like you albeit in a fancy Winnebago with air, kitchen, etc. I suspect they get their fee of $38 per night waved. My fee was $28 for camping and I’ll pay an additional $5 tomorrow for the car which is not included in the camping fee.
Tent went up very quickly! Reed Bingham State Park, Adel, GA.
After a quick set up of camp, I took a walk down the Gopher Tortoise trail. It was after 5pm and they normally are active at that time of day. I only saw burrows. The trail is a loop of 1 mile over very level terrain, much like the scrub community of the Lake Wales Ridge in Florida. It is a condition in which a man is unable to hold the erection for Read Full Report levitra generika a longer period of time. Losing weight, Quitting smoking and exercising regularly can reduce sales viagra http://cute-n-tiny.com/cute-animals/kitten-and-bird-pals/ the risk of erectile dysfunction by making slight lifestyle changes. However, some users feel shy online order viagra when talking about this matter reading NF Cure capsules and Vital M-40 capsules review. This article sildenafil side effects find content discuses proven health benefits of Ginseng. Gopher Tortoise loop.
There is more Tread-softly here than I have ever seen. I hope they have a way of warning campers about it because it has stinging hairs that are excruciatingly painful if you touch them.
Tread-softly. I mean it. It’ll really hurt if you touch it.
Tonight is beef stroganoff, an early turn in, and then off to Bryson City, NC for one night in the Deep Creek campground. According to the GPS, it’s a 6 hour, 28 minute drive from Adel, GA.
Lake formed by dam on the Little River. Reed Bingham State Park.
Senior moments. I left the camera at the Carolina Bed and Breakfast in Asheville and left a pair of pants and shirt hanging in the closet at the Foley House Inn in Savannah. The sad part is that I looked through the rooms each time and still missed the items. Oh well.
The complimentary breakfast at Foley House was nice. Your choice was eggs any style, ham, grits, and biscuit and jelly or a frittata with ham and toast. I ate quickly and then headed out of Savannah.
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I head back north on Monday for a few days in the Great Smokey Mountains National Park where I hope to hike the Deep Creek, Martin’s Gap, Indian Creek trails.
Mary Ann made a great breakfast. Terry paid me $5 to ask for eggs and bacon and he knew Mary Ann couldn’t turn me down.
Terry knew I was interested in history (he often gives historical lectures of the area) and he showed me some early American documents and realia of some of his ancestors.
Back yard of Terry and Mary Ann.
After breakfast, we headed to Honeyhorn, a former plantation that is now an historical museum and grounds. Terry is a docent and has been involved with Honeyhorn for years. It’s a great place and is really kid friendly to teach local history and nature. They have a stable and pasture on the grounds where they have a marsh tackie, a specific breed of horse for the lowlands and swamps of South Carolina and used by the Gullah community as work horses, but also by Francis Marion (the Swamp Fox) of revolutionary war fame.
They have a butterfly house and what I really like about it is they have local butterflies of the area so people can see there what may be found in their yard. They also have a native plant area as well as an area of crops typical of the Gullah community, particularly, the variety of cotton they grew. This is a real educational gem.
We then headed to the Westin on Hilton Head Island and had a very good lunch by the pool (and beach).
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It was about a 38 minute drive to Savannah. The guest house where I am staying is on Hull Street and is called the Foley House. It’s pretty much city center and it very nicely done. Chuck, the host, originally owned was is now know as the Key West Inn and we reminisced about Key West. I was upgraded to a really nice room with a king bed and sitting area and a walk in shower.
Foley House, Savannah.My room at the Foley House. They gave me an upgrade.
They have desert from 3-5, wine and hors d’oeuvres from 6-7:30 and a full, sit down, order from the menu breakfast.
I walked around downtown Savannah, had wine and hors d’oeuvres and then headed to the Public Kitchen and Bar recommended by Chuck. The martinis were great and so was the Caesar salad and bison burger.
I intend to get and early start tomorrow for home. I’ll have a few days there and then will start a Smokies hike on Monday.
I was able to get away from Greensboro by around 9:30 am. I hated to leave. Jimmie and I have always been very close, both as kids and adults. Part of that is our similar ages, part kinship, and partly because we like each other. My mother was an Agnew and there’s something about that but we were kids and we grew up together. There’s a strong bond.
I got to Hilton Head and my friend’s house just a little before 3 pm. Mary Ann and Terry are friends I met during the French Wayerways Barge Tour of Bourgone in 2012. We were 10 couples and me and we did the waterways of Burgundy on a barge that went through locks. We’ve been friends ever since and this has been the first time I’ve had the opportunity to visit.
Mary Ann and Terry are great hosts. Terry took me on a tour of their community. He’s been very involved in the development in its early stages and active on their board. Not only that, dear to a botanist’s heart, he made sure two nature trails were developed on the properties. He had each trail developed and a map produced for each and then brochures developed for each trail.
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We ate at a great restaurant called Bistro 17. It was excellent. I had snapper and it was as good as any I’ve had. They also make a pretty good martini!
It’s really special to see these two since the barge tour in 2012. They both traveled with Tauck on the “Winter in Yellowstone” tour and I encouraged Mary Ann to do the dog sledding adventure. It seems we do a lot of similar tours. Great minds think alike.
I will head to Savannah tomorrow but look forward to hanging with Mary Ann and Twrry tomorrow for much of the morning.
I awoke to the sound of rain on the roof. It was a dreary morning, but I like rainy days. Breakfast was biscuits (prepared by Jimmie) and scrambled eggs (by Stephen).
I think Stephen and I have always related because of his work with computers and technology. We’re both gadget people. He’s also worked in publishing of computer magazines and journals and I asked him advice about the first computer I purchased, the Amiga by Commodore. We both agreed it was far ahead of its time. We also relate because he’s a real nice guy like yours truly.
After breakfast, we did a mile walk in the rain – something else I like to do and they were kind enough to humor me. Jimmie made tuna fish for lunch and the we packed off to Elon University to see the play “Working”, a musical based on the book by Studs Turkel of the same name. I had read the book years ago when it was first published and enjoyed it. It’s a very powerful journey through the lives of working men and women as told by them.
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We then toured Elon University and I finally got to see where Jimmie taught all those years before retirement. It’s a beautiful campus and in many ways reminds me of the Ole Miss campus.
From there we traveled to downtown Greensboro and ate at Natty Greene’s Pub & Brewery. You may have read where Anheiser-Busch sued them for their name and the pub beat them in the courts. The food was ok but we had a new kid on the block as our server and he was pretty lost – at least as a member of the service industry.
I leave early tomorrow for Hilton Head Island to visit friends from my French Country Waterways Tour in 2012. I hate leaving Greensboro and Jimmie and Stephen, but you know what they say about company.
Ah, breakfast! Freshly sliced pineapple dusted with fresh (I suspect from their garden) minced mint leaves. Susan is a wizard in pairing herbs and spices with foods you would not consider pairing. We all suffered through waffles made the night before with yeast and allowed to cool rise overnight. They were so light you had to hold them down on the plate with your knife while you ate with your fork. The strawberries and whipped cream weren’t heavy enough to do the job.
I packed and loaded the car and settled accounts with James and asked him to have Susan consider opening a restaurant in Fort Lauderdale. I was on the road by 9:30 am. I was about an hour into the drive to Greensboro when the phone rang. It was James. I had left by brand new backpacking camera in the room. He said he would send it to me in Fort Lauderdale. I had my backup camera and lenses in the car and I’m not backpacking any more on the trip so I can continue to photograph.
I pulled into Jimmie and Stephen’s driveway a little after one. Jimmie is my second cousin and one of three sisters. She is the youngest of the three and the one closest to my age and we grew up together in a small town called Morton. We did everything together and were pretty much inseparable including building tree houses, learning to play bridge from her Mom, to going to Tank Hill and sneaking up the town water tank which we would have paid dearly if anyone of our parents found out.
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Later, after returning home, we headed to a local Thai restaurant for a good dinner and then headed to a local used bookstore that used to be Stephen’s old office. It’s a warehouse size space with books sometimes two deep on the shelf. If at first you don’t succeed, keep looking. I found the same title once under fiction, once under literature/classics, and once under some obscure heading.
I’m in bed early tonight but not before I read a short story by Eudora Welty. Jimmie and I started talking about her. I told her that one of the guests at Carolina B&B was introduced to me as her nephew. He certainly was the right age for that. I told Jimmie that I disliked her books – I find them almost unreadable – but really like her photos. Jimmie was fortunate enough to get to hear her do readings while at Milsaps and even once in Greensboro and she had the similar opinion until she heard her read her short stories.
Growing up we had to read her at school because she was a Mississippi writer and we both agreed we didn’t realize she was nationally known until after college.
To this day, when people not from Mississippi find out that I was originally from there, they don’t ask me if I read Faulkner, Stark Young, Tennessee Williams, but have I read Welty. I’m going to start with Jimmie’s recommendation “Why I Live at the P.O.” I’ll see if 46 years makes a difference in my opinion.
