searcyf@mac.com – Page 100 – Travels with Fred

Linville Falls Trip – Day 6

21 June 2017

The campground was quiet last night and I got more sleep than the night before. I needed it because today was a busy day. In addition to pulling off the Blue Ridge for all their observations points as I headed south, I did three hikes – one pretty difficult and the other two easy.

Look what I found on the way to Crabtree Falls.

First hiking stop was Crabtree Falls, a 70 foot beauty. To get to the falls, you begin at the trailhead near the information center and hike through the campgrounds and begin your descent to the falls. It supposedly is a two mile loop, but typically, my gps registered over 4 miles. The initial descent is steep, rocky and muddy and I pity anyone who tries to do it without a good pair of hiking boots. The hike down and back up is listed as strenuous and I would have to agree.

You have the option of returning as you came (I would not recommend it) or take the 0.9 mile loop back. It has a very steep set of switchbacks but once you make the ridge, it levels out until the last 0.8 miles. It returns you to the campground and you must retrace your steps to the trailhead parking lot.

The signage on the trail was excellent and the trail fairly well maintained. They need to work on some of their staircases but otherwise this was an excellent hike.

My next stop was Mount Mitchell State Park, the highest mountain east of the Mississippi at 6,684 feet. This was the first State Park in North Carolina established in 1915. The park is named for Elisha Mitchell, a professor at the University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill who died trying to prove its height. He’s buried at the summit.
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Observation Deck and Tomb of Elisha Mitchell

In reality, you drive to the top (no admission fees) and wall 0.4 miles via a paved walkway to the top and to the observation tower. The views were spectacular.

There was a bicycle club of young kids that pedaled their way to the top! I was amazed at how young they were. I think it was some type of money raising event.

Lastly, I stopped at Craggy Gardens and hiked 0.3 miles up to a Rhododendron bald at the top. The path was steep but easily walked without too much effort. Again, with the rocks, a good pair of hiking shoes is recommended.

Me at the top of Craggy Gardens Rhododendron Bald

I returned to Linville Falls campground, took a “spit” shower and ate fried chicken with fried okra, mashed potatoes with gravy and iced tea at Famous Louise’s Rock House Restaurant. The famous part is the house sits directly at the meeting point of 3 North Carolina counties. Desert was homemade cherry pie with vanilla ice cream. I felt I needed to treat myself after all that exertion during the day.

It’s supposed to rain tomorrow so I may be packing a wet tent. I head to Asheville for a short visit with Joyce and Alfred Hiller and then to Franklin D. Roosevelt State Park at Pine Mountain, Georgia for three nights.

Linville Falls Trip – Day 5

I never sleep well the first night in a tent. I was a little anxious since a group camp of young kids were nearby and they were running around screaming at 9 pm. Just before 10 pm, I was getting ready to walk over to the campground host to ask him to ask the supervisor to quiet them down when it started raining and did the job for me. I tossed and turned until 1 am and finally dozed off until 5:30 am.

I made coffee and then headed out to find Jimmie and Stephen. We were planning to eat at Famous Louise’s Rock House Restaurant (not sure of her fame) near their lodge but it was closed on Tuesday. Instead, we headed to Linville and had breakfast at the Tartan Restaurant. I recommend their biscuits!

After breakfast, we headed to Linn Cove to see their famous “S” shaped viaduct. It seems to be some engineering marvel. It is 1,243 feet in length and was completed in 1987.

I heard the ranger tell some other visitors that the Blue Ridge Parkway was finished in segments and the viaduct was the last segment of the parkway completed. There are 153 segments to the bridge and only one is not curved in some fashion.

Next stop was Price Lake where Jimmie and I walked around the lake. It’s a beautiful hike, level, and for the most part shaded with Rhododendron. It was supposed to be 2.7 miles in length but Jimmie’s fit bit hit 3 miles about 3/4 of the way through.

Canopy of Rhododendron along trail at Price Lake

We thought we would have to turn around half way due to flooding from information received from a ranger but it was pretty dry most of the way. By the end of the hike it was time for lunch and we headed to Blowing Rock for lunch at Six Pence Pub. Trust me, mayonnaise is a key ingredient in everything.

I said goodbye to Jimmie and Stephen and headed back to Linville Falls. I really appreciated their willingness to share their time with me along the Blue Ridge. It gave us more time together. We travel well together and hopefully there will be other opportunities.

On my return, I stopped at Grandfather Mountain, paid the $20 admission and headed for the top.

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At the top, you have a spectacular view of a condominium across the valley. Really, it was fun to cross the swinging bridge and the views were nice.

You could see clouds rolling over the top of the bridge. After Grandfather Mountain, I headed south on the Blue Ridge Parkway and made several stops to photograph the scenery and wildflowers and the headed back to Linville Falls.

I then decided to hike to the lower falls on the recommendation of the ranger. The views were spectacular. Until today, I didn’t realize what we had seen yesterday were the upper falls which were nice but small in height. The Lower Falls are far more impressive.

As usual, something was funny about the mileage. The Chimney View Overlook is supposedly 0.7 miles from the visitor center and the Erwin’s View Overlook is 0.8 from the visitor center. My gps said 1.07 miles. So double that and add 0.2 for the Plunge Basin Overlook and it was 2.16 round trip. The ranger called the hike moderately difficult and I would agree. Most of the overlooks are uphill.

Tonight’s dinner was chicken and noodles. I think I prefer the noodles with the beef version, but what can you say about dehydrated/freeze dried food other than it helps with constipation?

Tomorrow, I head South on the Blue Ridge Parkway for more waterfalls and hiking. Stay tuned.

Linville Falls Trip – Day 4

19 June 2017

Last night, Greensboro was the recipient of a tremendous thunderstorm. I finally drifted off to sleep around 1 am and got up around 5:30 am, packed and met Jimmie and Stephen downstairs for breakfast.

I left first and they followed about an hour later in their car – destination Linville Falls. They are staying in a quaint lodge near the falls and I’m staying at the Linville Falls campground just off the Blue Ridge Parkway. My main concern was getting the tent set up before the 80% chance of rain set in.

I pulled into the camping area around 1 pm, set up the tent (10 minutes) and headed out to Linville Falls Lodge to pick Jimmie and Stephen up.

They were walking out the door to come find me (no cell reception) and it was pure luck I got there before they left. They are about a mile and a half from where I am located just of NC 226. We piled in the jeep and headed out.

Stephen had consulted with the owners of the lodge and found if we headed north from the lodge, we would come to a gravel road which would lead to the falls. Four miles further on the road and we would come to an overlook of the falls. As we were heading to the falls, it began to rain, so we decided to do the overlook first and if the rain quit, do the falls hike. The road was definitely unsaved, gravel in some places, boulders embedded in the road in other places and some mud.

You really couldn’t see the falls from the overlook but you had a spectacular view of Linville Gorge.
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Jimmie and Stephen at Linville Gorge Overlook

It was an easy walk, paved all the way and with handicapped access. It rained on us for most of the way and really poured on us on the way back. We got the jeep going over the road again and stopped at the Linville Falls access (more gravel).

After our soaking, Jimmie and I decided to hike to the falls. As you begin the 0.4 mile trip (more like 0.6 according to Jimmie’s odometer) you start a serious drop in the trail. It started raining as we started down. I had left Stephen the key fob so he was in good shape back at the car. In the back of your mind is the trip back up. We persevered and eventually the trail leveled out at the falls. We did the usual tourist photos and began the hike back up. It began to rain again, but eventually tapered off.

The falls are split into two major runs at the same level and a smaller, center run. The forest service has done a nice job of providing steps, stone retaining walls, and overlook points.

We returned to the lodge and eventually had a very nice dinner at their restaurant. It seems tourist season is not in full swing yet. The lodge was not full re are numerous spaces in the camp.

Tomorrow, I meet them for breakfast and we head north on the Blue Ridge for more short hikes, sightseeing and shopping. Temperature night is expected to dip to 59 F. Cellular reception is iffy.

Linville Falls Trip – Day 3

18 June 2017

Finally, a great night’s sleep! I dozed off sometime after 9:30 pm and didn’t wake until 6 am. It was bliss. No stomping in the overhead and no noisy neighbors in the next room. I have the entire second floor to myself. Stephen kindly offered to have someone tromp around in the attic to make me feel more like the Savannah stay but I demurred.

After breakfast and two cups of coffee, Jimmie, Stephen and I headed to the Greensboro Arboretum.

Jimmie and Stephen at the Greensboro Arboretum. Jimmie knows the sculpturer of the gate. The top is composed of many numerous wrought iron oak leaves.

The city, according to Stephen, converted some regions in the town into parks to help control excessive runoff from storms. There are several parks in town in flood plains and this one space was converted into the arboretum. This is a narrow strip along a busy road that is perfect for drainage mitigation and a public park at the same time.

Jimmie and I at the arboretum. Yes, that’s my smile.

The arboretum is well laid out with both paved and I paved pathways. It also has excellent signage. I would estimate 80-90% of the plantings were labeled and easily read from the pathways.

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After the arboretum, we adjourned to McDonalds for iced coffee. Later, we headed to the Weatherspoon Art Gallery to see their collection. It’s a part of the University of North Carolina, Greensboro and is a very neat little museum, also with classroom space for students.

The Weatherspoon Art Museum – back entrance

One exhibit at the Weatherspoon was paper art by Greensboro residents. My favorite was by Steven M. Cozart who interviewed people and drew them during their interviews on paper bags. The bottoms of the paper bags had quotations from each interview as their captions.

Tomorrow, I head to Linville Falls for three night of, in all probability, soggy camping. Stephen and Jimmie have better sense and are staying at Linville Lodge. We’ll do short day hikes while there.

There is a distinct possibility the next few days will be blogless because of lack of signal strength to do the posting. Whenever I get a signal, I’ll post but it may be a few days lag.

Linville Falls Trip – Day 2

17 June 2017

Hotel Hell. If you read my blog with any consistency, you know, like a Dickensian Scrooge, I find something to complain about. This hotel is it. In Paul Simon’s song “Duncan” he says “…these motel walls are cheap….”. In this case, so are the floors.

I chose the hotel for its easy on, easy off to I-95, economical rate and decent ratings on TripAdvisor. In fairness, the staff are friendly and efficient, the rooms clean and the bed is comfortable. However, the floors squeak and you can hear even low level conversations from one room to another. The walls must be one layer of sheet rock with no insulation and the floors sound like wood.

I had just turned in when two lead footed people entered the room above mine and proceeded to walk back and forth from the bed to the bathroom – continuously. Finally, around 12:45 am, they fell exhausted into their bed and I was much relieved they had not fallen through my ceiling crushing me.

No sooner than the dancing hippos stopped than the couple next door entered with the wife gnawing loudly at the husband’s butt. Usually, I turn the fan on in hotel rooms to provide white noise to allow me to sleep but for some reason, the fan function on the a/c in this hotel does not work. Apparently, all is well with the couple. They were simply bantering back and forth in normal street voices at 1 am. I’ve been thoroughly entertained as they prepared for bed and now, almost 2 am, she is singing to her husband.

The hippos stirred at 5:45am.

I was on the road to Congaree National Park by 8:30 am and was taken aback by the heavy traffic on a Saturday. Like Florida, South Carolina roadways are under construction which didn’t help. I pulled into the park around noon.
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This must be the least visited national park in the U.S. It became a national park in 2003 and is mostly wilderness area. You really have to have a good GPS to find it since the signage to the park is sparse. Part of the boundary follows the Congaree River and a search for the word “Congaree” suggests no known meaning.

In a lot of ways, it’s reminds you of the Everglades. When I stopped in the visitor center, the ranger informed me most of the trails were currently underwater. One elevated walkway was available and I took that. It’s the longest walkway I’ve ever seen. Only part was accessible due to flood waters and that was 1.2 miles one-way of wooden planking. Check another national park off the list. The nice part about the “hike” was most of the walkway was shaded and bug free. I anticipated clouds of mosquitoes but saw nary one.

There are several trails, back country camp sites and developed camping. Again, national parks don’t have shower facilities. Spit baths all around.

I pulled out around 1:30 pm and headed for Greensboro, NC to see Stephen and Jimmie – not without hazard. I was almost wiped off the road by an inattentive pickup pulling a trailer with a vat of some chemical solution. He was behind me and did not notice all traffic coming to a stop on I-75. He could not break in time so he pulled between me and a car in the lane left of me. I caught him out of the corner of my eye and eased to the shoulder to let me pull forward and pass me with millimeters between his rig and my jeep. It scared him pretty badly.

Stephen and Jimmie prepared a wonderful meal of fresh salad, a chicken curry with rice, garlic bread and watermelon for desert. I begged forgivable around 8:30 because I needed a shower after the hike, and because i’ve had 3 hours sleep in the last 24 hours. More tomorrow.

Linville Falls Trip – Day 1

16 June 2017

I was awake by 5:30 am and on the road by 10 am. There wasn’t much to pack since only 3 nights will be camping at Linville Falls. I probably forgot to pack things, I always do, but the more I do this, the more I remember to pack. It’s the little things like clothes pins. I generally wash a shirt and pants out on the trip. Most campsites either provide a clothesline or there are two trees to hang a line but I always forget clothespins to hold the clothes on the line. I remembered them this trip. I even packed a line.

My first night is outside of Savannah at a cheap hotel off I-95. Tomorrow, I head for Greensboro, NC for a two night visit with my cousin Jimmie and her husband Stephen. Greensboro is a neat town – typically old South, and I always feel welcome staying with them.

After Greensboro, I head to Linville Falls, just north of Asheville for my 3 nights of camping. I packed the small tent and I’m doing bare essential camping. Stephen and Jimmie will join me on the second day there and we plan to do some short hikes to waterfalls in the area along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

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After Warm a Springs, I head to Silver Springs, FL, just outside of Gainesville for three more nights in a cabin there. I’m really roughing it this trip! I think I previously mentioned my Dad visited there while stationed a Camp Blanding prior to WWII and I have photos of his trip there.

Here’s hoping for an early start tomorrow because I want to stop in at Congaree National Park in South Carolina on my way to Greensboro to add another national park to my life list.

Bahia Honda – Day 4

2 June 2017

On the way to Key West yesterday, just outside of town, I saw a sign for the Key West Botanical Garden. I’ve been coming to Key West since 1983 and either I have not paid attention to it or I did and it slipped my memory. In any case, on my way back to Bahia Honda, I decided to stop in. I was taken by surprise by the facility and grounds.

It could be a little better maintained and marked, but you must realize this is not a manicured botanical garden – it’s what the keys used to look like. It is a surprisingly large garden with primarily native plants, particularly those endemic to Key West and the Caribbean. The volunteer behind the desk was very chatty and helpful and was very proud of what Key West accomplished.

The garden is an outgrowth of efforts by the Key West Garden Club of 1934. At the time, Key West was suffering from recent hurricanes and the Great Depression. In desperation, the city turned itself over to the state and the state director of the Federal Emergency Relief Administration visited the city and determined it had great potential as a tourist destination.
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The garden club took this idea and applied for federal funding and was awarded enough money to purchase 55 acres. Over the years, this was whittled down for state and national priorities. However, it still occupies a significant piece of real estate. It is currently known as the Key West Tropical Forest and Botanical Garden. It also has several butterfly gardens. If you are in town, this is a must see. It is classified as the only frost-free tropical forest within the continental United States.

As you might guess, my last night I had to ask someone to turn their music down. It was a family of campers and they had backed their pickup truck into the campsite, opened all four doors and was blasting music from the truck. I think they thought they were the only ones to hear the music, but I was five campsites down and it was too loud where I was. I met a woman and child from New Orleans who asked me if it was legal for them to play music that loud. I replied quiet hours start at 11 pm (unusual – most parks say 10 pm) and left it at that. Finally, around 9:30 pm I decided I didn’t pay camping fees to listen to someone else’s music. I walked down, asked them to lower the volume and he agreed. However, someone else must have said something after I left because they eventually turned it off. It wasn’t the park rangers. They drove right by his site and never stopped.

I always check the weather whenever I camp, usually every few hours of so. The weather report for the area would say rain, no rain, rain, no rain. They couldn’t make up their mind. In any case, I prepared for rainfall. It was a good thing I did. About 6:30 am the bottom fell out of the clouds with blowing rain – enough that the tent was vibrating. This is the second torrential downpour I’ve been in with the new tent and everything was perfectly dry. Unfortunately, rain was to continue throughout the day, so I packed a wet tent. I’ll need to pitch the tent tomorrow in the yard (more rain predicted) and either wait for a rainstorm or hose it down to get the salt off the outside. Once that it done, hopefully the rain will let up and let me air dry the tent. Otherwise, it’s into the dryer for an air cycle.

Bahia Honda – Key West – Day 3

1 June 2017

Last night was dinner at Herbie’s in Marathon Key. Herbie’s, in one form or another has been in business since 1940 and has always been a go to restaurant for me in the Keys. They even will prepare your own catch. Since I was fishless, I let them fix me a deep fried whole snapper. Delish!

Before I made it to Herbie’s, I did a little touring of Big Pine Key and No Name Key, just south of Marathon. My first stop was Frederick C. Man I’ll, Jr. nature trail, a very short walk through some pine lands. Next was Blue Hole nature trail, another short walk to a freshwater pond on the key.

Then it was a trip down memory lane to No Name Key, past No Nam Pub (a great bar and restaurant) to visit the area a good friend had an off-the-grid weekend home. I stayed there a couple of times. I didn’t go to the house since they no longer have the place but I did get to see a Keys deer that apparently escaped the screw worm infestation.

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For a change, someone else’s car alarm woke everyone this morning. I showered and headed to Key West, 36 miles away. I have good luck finding a parking space on Fleming Street and so it was his time. I unmounted the bike from the rack and began my tour.

First stop was the Key West Cemetery, one of my favorite places. My favorite epitaph is found here: “I told you I was sick.” I then pedaled Duval, the Truman Annex, Southern Most Point and back to Simonton where I had lunch at Sarabeth’s.

I’ll probably park the bike this afternoon and do some walking. Hopefully, I last until dinner time here in Key West and head back to Bahia Honda afterwards. Tomorrow morning I pack up and head home.

Bahia Honda has been a blast. I’ll post some photos later on Facebook and my web site after I return.

Bahia Honda – Day 2

31 May, 2017

It was an interesting night. The bed was comfortable, the breeze was blowing, but I wasn’t used to the heat, even with the portable fan. As a kid, without air, I remember the term “prickly heat”. I now remember what it was like, particularly in the armpits and groin area. Then, I remembered what the solution was – talcum powder. When I think of my grandmother, I still think of that smell. I just so happened to have some baby powder in my kit. Problem solved!

One set of campers next to me came in early – around 8:30 pm – and went to bed around 10, but the ones on the other side came in around midnight. However, both sets tried to be as quiet as they could which I appreciated.

Later, the wind picked up and started flapping the tent fly that I had rolled back to allow ventilation. I thought I could sleep through it, but around 2 am I got up and tucked it in. I had dozed a little before that but after that, I slept pretty soundly.

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I started the morning with a bike ride to the Nature trail at the end of the park. It’s a very nice trail with everything well marked. I was busy taking plant photos the entire walk.

From there, I headed to the bridge at the other end of the park. You can walk to the top of the bridge where cars used to cross Bahia Honda channel. It is very narrow and you think how could two cars fit on this bridge? Before the terrible 1935 Labor Day hurricane that destroyed Flagler’s railroad to Key West, trains crossed on the bottom part of the trestle. Afterwards, the upper part of the trestle opened in 1938 for autos. The top is very scary to drive. Later, the bridge was superseded by a new bridge to the west of it.

After viewing the bridge, I toured the very small nature center and had lunch at the much larger concession stand. Tonight, I head in to “town” for some seafood.

Bahia Honda State Park – Day 1

30 May 2017

No signal strength so posts will be delayed until I can access wifi at the concession stand.

I spent yesterday gathering camping equipment and today packing it in the jeep. I managed to leave the house around 12:30 pm and had a leisurely drive down highway 1 to the Keys. No matter how many times I make the trip, it still amazes. It’s also fun to see what is new along the way and what has stayed the same. Ominously, Key Largo and several other keys have massive developments going in. At least they are building them for hurricanes and flooding. All were concrete block and elevated one story.

I pulled into Bahia Honda State Park a little after 3 pm and registered with the ranger. I’m facing the Atlantic in Sandspur campground (yes, there is some sandspur around) in site #50. I highly recommend the site. It is totally shaded with gumbo limbo and you get a sea breeze. Even the ranger commented he thought it was a good site.

I guess I’m a little rusty setting up the Kingdom 8 tent. I spent the first 15 minutes trying to set up the fly before I realized it was not the tent. Once I corrected that, it went up pretty quickly. Again, I have the port-a-potty at the ready in the tent and the queen size air mattress for my sleeping comfort – I hope. I’ve peeled the fly back from the sleeping area to increase the breeze. Hopefully there will be no rain or I’ll have to get up and pull it back over the tent tonight.
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I also brought my battery powered fan in case it is too warm tonight. All the comforts of home, minus air conditioning. Just wait until I get my airstream.

After downing 2 bottles of water and resting, I got on the bike and cycled the roads of the park, visiting the other two campgrounds (the park has 80 campsites and 6 cabins). The Atlantic side is the best, in my opinion. The Florida Bay side gets the afternoon sun and you can tell it was hotter on that side. However, most of the campsites are shaded. The distance around the park is 5 miles. If you come to Bahia Honda, be sure to bring a bike. Getting to the concession or the old bridge, or even the nature trail is quite a hike.

Dinner tonight is red beans and rice, thanks to Reed Bilbray and his recommend Cajun seasoning and brand of red beans. I made a large pot yesterday and simply warmed it up in the Coleman oven.

Tomorrow I want to hike to the top of the bridge, do the nature trail and eventually treat myself to some seafood at a local restaurant.