Campsite 51

11 May 2016

The morning started with a peal of thunder. It was around 5 am and I decided to get everything packed and in the car before it rained. I was at the Deep Creek Trail head by 7:23 am and on the trail by 7:30. I decided to hike to Juney Whank Falls ( yea, I know, what a name) before starting the trail. It was a steep climb and a good test for what was to come. The falls are only 0.3 miles but it is all up hill. Then it’s 0.3 down again.

Juney Whank Falls.
Juney Whank Falls.

After viewing the falls, I decided to do the Juney Whank loop trail which ties into Indian Creek, my main destination today. It was a mile loop. One half was quite a climb. I met some park workers clearing the trail and doing upkeep. Their day stated at 7 am and ends at 5 pm and everything needed for trail maintenance had to be packed in. Let’s just say they were physically fit. All spoke and when questioned, loved their job.

Juney Whank Loop.
Juney Whank Loop.

Once on the Indian Creek Trail (a rocky road in reality) I began a steady climb. Interestingly, two joggers passed me.  It’s a popular jogging trail.

I break off to Indian Creek Trail.
I break off to Indian Creek Trail.

Indian Creek joins the Deeplow Trail (a misnomer if ever there was one) which carries me to campsite 51. Again all up hill. I made it to the campsite by 12:30 so I had been hiking for five hours.
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I’ve learned not to be in a hurry uphill. Small steps and frequent rest stops and water breaks. As it happens, I hiked 8.3 miles today. Still it was a tough day. I didn’t have a dry stitch on me. I also haven’t bathed in two days and I smell a little rank. No even the bugs want me.

I found two suitable trees and hung the hammock. Dinner tonight is Cana Masala!

Campsite 51 with my hammock.
Campsite 51 with my hammock.

I decided to rest a little in the hammock and after a while I needed to find a bush. As I got out of the hammock, there was a doe not ten feet from me, calmly eating. She didn’t bolt but kept on eating and then calmly walked away.

Doe at campsite 51.
Doe at campsite 51.

Later, I realized the deer was as the spot I had chosen to relieve myself. Apparently, it was the salt in my urine she was after. TMI!

The campsite had bear protection for your food. It was really neat. A metal cable about 15 feet above ground had pulleys with wires and hooks to lift your food away to protect from roaming bears. It’s the best system I’ve seen. I simply raised my entire pack.

Deep Creek Campground, Bryson City, NC.

10 May 2016

I never can sleep well the first night.  I think I got around 4 hours.  The biggest problem was I couldn’t find my inflatable pillow (yes, it’s luxurious camping) and I had to make do without it. Good news! I found it just in time for tonight.

It’s interesting what you forget.  I meant to bring a towel, wash cloth and soap for the campground.  I stopped in Tifton, GA and found most of what I needed at the Walmart market and the rest at Fred’s Dollar Store.  Didn’t know they were still around. Deep Creek has no shower.  Oh well, at least I have it for the next time.

The welcome center on the outside of Bryson City is the nicest I’ve seen. It’s what they all should be.  They had rhododendron and dogwood blooming in profusion all around the place with a very nice gift shop inside.

Welcome Center near Bryson City, NC.
Welcome Center near Bryson City, NC.

I took SR 28 into Bryson City.  This is a very fun road to drive with twists, turns, “S” curves, and sheer drop offs all the way in to town. I put on the “Will the Circle Be Unbroken” album by the Nitty Gritty Dirt Band and cruised in with mountain music.

The first step cialis online discount in the treatment of alcoholism is for you to admit that you do have a problem on your hands. It has to be kept in Full Article discount cialis the air tight container. Those that are caused by tactile viagra no stimulation, those caused due to mental stimulation and finally, those that are experienced during health disorders can be easily overcome by make correct choices of the medicinal drugs after the approval of the health expert. However, to cheap levitra Source cure gout a proper lifestyle according to prescribes Ayurvedic remedies. Crag Knox sent me a PDFs file of our back country pass dated 1976, so it seems it was 40 years ago I last hiked Deep Creek. The Feds may move slowly but the changes are enormous.  It was a dirt road and a dirt parking lot 40 years ago.  Bryson City was a one street town with one cafe. I can still taste the ham with red eye gravy and biscuits we had for breakfast.

Deep Creek Campground.
Deep Creek Campground.

Now, the campground is much expanded to include group camps, picnic area, bathrooms (nonexistent then) and a ranger cabin. All the roads are paved. It took me a while to find the trail head.  Fortunately, they did not pave that.

Deep Creek.
Deep Creek.

The forecast tonight, tomorrow and Thursday is 57F with possibility of rain and thunderstorms all three days. I wouldn’t have it any other way.

No posts for the next two nights. Nonexistent signals.

Reed Bingham State Park, Adel, Georgia

9 May 2016

According to Joel, it’s pronounced AY dell.

I got away from the house just before 10 am and fought with the GPS which wanted me to go via I95 instead of directly to the Florida Turnpike.  It was pretty much 70 mph all the way on the Turnpike and then I75 except the last few miles.  I cranked out 436 miles in a little over 7 hours with rest stops.  No traffic tie ups and I was probably the slowest on the road.

The campsite is nice.  Again, new restroom/shower facility.  It seems Florida and Georgia are really upgrading their facilities.  I finally figured out that only specific spots in the campground are for tents.  The first clue was a tent with the circle/cross through it.  You go register with a “host” in the campground who is camping just like you albeit in a fancy Winnebago with air, kitchen, etc.  I suspect they get their fee of $38 per night waved.  My fee was $28 for camping and I’ll pay an additional $5 tomorrow for the car which is not included in the camping fee.

Tent went up very quickly!  Reed Bingham State Park, Adel, GA.
Tent went up very quickly! Reed Bingham State Park, Adel, GA.

After a quick set up of camp, I took a walk down the Gopher Tortoise trail.  It was after 5pm and they normally are active at that time of day.  I only saw burrows.  The trail is a loop of 1 mile over very level terrain, much like the scrub community of the Lake Wales Ridge in Florida.
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Gopher Tortoise loop.
Gopher Tortoise loop.

There is more Tread-softly here than I have ever seen. I hope they have a way of warning campers about it because it has stinging hairs that are excruciatingly painful if you touch them.

Tread-softly. I mean it.  It'll really hurt if you touch it.
Tread-softly. I mean it. It’ll really hurt if you touch it.

Tonight is beef stroganoff, an early turn in, and then off to Bryson City, NC for one night in the Deep Creek campground.  According to the GPS, it’s a 6 hour, 28 minute drive from Adel, GA.

Lake formed by dam on the Little River.  Reed Bingham State Park.
Lake formed by dam on the Little River. Reed Bingham State Park.

Savannah and Home

4 May 2016

Senior moments.  I left the camera at the Carolina Bed and Breakfast in Asheville and left a pair of pants and shirt hanging in the closet at the Foley House Inn in Savannah.  The sad part is that I looked through the rooms each time and still missed the items.  Oh well.

The complimentary breakfast at Foley House was nice.  Your choice was eggs any style, ham, grits, and biscuit and jelly or a frittata with ham and toast. I ate quickly and then headed out of Savannah.

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I head back north on Monday for a few days in the Great Smokey Mountains National Park where I hope to hike the Deep Creek, Martin’s Gap, Indian Creek trails.

 

Hilton Head Island and Savannah

3 May 2016

Mary Ann made a great breakfast. Terry paid me $5 to ask for eggs and bacon and he knew Mary Ann couldn’t turn me down.

Terry knew I was interested in history (he often gives historical lectures of the area) and he showed me some early American documents and realia of some of his ancestors.

Back yard of Terry and Mary Ann.
Back yard of Terry and Mary Ann.

After breakfast, we headed to Honeyhorn, a former plantation that is now an historical museum and grounds.  Terry is a docent and has been involved with Honeyhorn for years.  It’s a great place and is really kid friendly to teach local history and nature.  They have a stable and pasture on the grounds where they have a marsh tackie, a specific breed of horse for the lowlands and swamps of South Carolina and used by the Gullah community as work horses, but also by Francis Marion (the Swamp Fox) of revolutionary war fame.

They have a butterfly house and what I really like about it is they have local butterflies of the area so people can see there what may be found in their yard. They also have a native plant area as well as an area of crops typical of the Gullah community, particularly, the variety of cotton they grew.  This is a real educational gem.

We then headed to the Westin on Hilton Head Island and had a very good lunch by the pool (and beach).

I really enjoyed seeing Mary Ann and Terry again after so long from the French Waterways tour of Bourgogne.  They are perfect hosts and it seemed like we picked up right after we said goodbye in Paris in 2012.
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It was about a 38 minute drive to Savannah.  The guest house where I am staying is on Hull Street and is called the Foley House.  It’s pretty much city center and it very nicely done.  Chuck, the host, originally owned was is now know as the Key West Inn and we reminisced about Key West.  I was upgraded to a really nice room with a king bed and sitting area and a walk in shower.

Foley House, Savannah.
Foley House, Savannah.
My room at the Foley House. They gave me an upgrade.
My room at the Foley House. They gave me an upgrade.

They have desert from 3-5, wine and hors d’oeuvres from 6-7:30 and a full, sit down, order from the menu breakfast.

I walked around downtown Savannah, had wine and hors d’oeuvres and then headed to the Public Kitchen and Bar recommended by Chuck.  The martinis were great and so was the Caesar salad and bison burger.

I intend to get and early start tomorrow for home.  I’ll have a few days there and then will start a Smokies hike on Monday.

 

Hilton Head

2 May 2016

I was able to get away from Greensboro by around 9:30 am. I hated to leave.  Jimmie and I have always been very close, both as kids and adults.  Part of that is our similar ages, part kinship, and partly because we like each other.  My mother was an Agnew and there’s something about that but we were kids and we grew up together. There’s a strong bond.

I got to Hilton Head and my friend’s house just a little before 3 pm. Mary Ann and Terry are friends I met during the French Wayerways Barge Tour of Bourgone in 2012.  We were 10 couples and me and we did the waterways of Burgundy on a barge that went through locks.  We’ve been friends ever since and this has been the first time I’ve had the opportunity to visit.

Mary Ann and Terry are great hosts.  Terry took me on a tour of their community.  He’s been very involved in the development in its early stages and active on their board. Not only that, dear to a botanist’s heart, he made sure two nature trails were developed on the properties.  He had each trail developed and a map produced for each and then brochures developed for each trail.

Both are active in the community and both are active supporters of the symphonic orchestra and annual piano competition that is internationally known.  They have a beautiful home they built overlooking a tidal marsh.  It’s one of the more spectacular views anywhere.
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We ate at a great restaurant called Bistro 17. It was excellent. I had snapper and it was as good as any I’ve had.  They also make a pretty good martini!

image

It’s really special to see these two since the barge tour in 2012.  They both traveled with Tauck on the “Winter in Yellowstone” tour and I encouraged Mary Ann to do the dog sledding adventure.  It seems we do a lot of similar tours.  Great minds think alike.

I will head to Savannah tomorrow but look forward to hanging with Mary Ann and Twrry tomorrow for much of the morning.

Greensboro Day 2

1 May 2016

I awoke to the sound of rain on the roof. It was a dreary morning, but I like rainy days. Breakfast was biscuits (prepared by Jimmie) and scrambled eggs (by Stephen).

I think Stephen and I have always related because of his work with computers and technology.  We’re both gadget people.  He’s also worked in publishing of computer magazines and journals and I asked him advice about the first computer I purchased, the Amiga by Commodore.  We both agreed it was far ahead of its time. We also relate because he’s a real nice guy like yours truly.

After breakfast, we did a mile walk in the rain – something else I like to do and they were kind enough to humor me. Jimmie made tuna fish for lunch and the we packed off to Elon University to see the play “Working”, a musical based on the book by Studs Turkel of the same name.  I had read the book years ago when it was first published and enjoyed it.  It’s a very powerful journey through the lives of working men and women as told by them.

I admit the idea of a musical based on the work was a little strange but it worked and the cast put on a very nice production.  Thanks to Jimmie and Stephen for my ticket. The play was performed at Scott Studios, part of the fine arts complex on the campus.
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We then toured Elon University and I finally got to see where Jimmie taught all those years before retirement. It’s a beautiful campus and in many ways reminds me of the Ole Miss campus.

From there we traveled to downtown Greensboro and ate at Natty Greene’s Pub & Brewery.  You may have read where Anheiser-Busch sued them for their name and the pub beat them in the courts.  The food was ok but we had a new kid on the block as our server and he was pretty lost – at least as a member of the service industry.

I leave early tomorrow for Hilton Head Island to visit friends from my French Country Waterways Tour in 2012.  I hate leaving Greensboro and Jimmie and Stephen, but you know what they say about company.

Greensboro

30 April 2016

Ah, breakfast! Freshly sliced pineapple dusted with fresh (I suspect from their garden) minced mint leaves. Susan is a wizard in pairing herbs and spices with foods you would not consider pairing. We all suffered through waffles made the night before with yeast and allowed to cool rise overnight. They were so light you had to hold them down on the plate with your knife while you ate with your fork. The strawberries and whipped cream weren’t heavy enough to do the job.

I packed and loaded the car and settled accounts with James and asked him to have Susan consider opening a restaurant in Fort Lauderdale. I was on the road by 9:30 am. I was about an hour into the drive to Greensboro when the phone rang. It was James. I had left by brand new backpacking camera in the room. He said he would send it to me in Fort Lauderdale. I had my backup camera and lenses in the car and I’m not backpacking any more on the trip so I can continue to photograph.

I pulled into Jimmie and Stephen’s driveway a little after one.  Jimmie is my second cousin and one of three sisters.  She is the youngest of the three and the one closest to my age and we grew up together in a small town called Morton.  We did everything together and were pretty much inseparable including building tree houses, learning to play bridge from her Mom, to going to Tank Hill and sneaking up the town water tank which we would have paid dearly if anyone of our parents found out.

After settling in, we headed for Bicentennial Park and the adjacent bog.  I got to take some neat photos and saw some old friends I hadn’t seen in years (plants, not people). In particular, I saw bloodroot which was used on the back over of my wildflower book. I love that plant! It has a single leaf and this time of year produces a single bloom with slender, white, finger-like petals that last only one day. At the end of the day, the petals fall off, and if pollinated, produces a simple fruit.  You can guess the reason for the common name of the plant.
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Later, after returning home, we headed to a local Thai restaurant for a good dinner and then headed to a local used bookstore that used to be Stephen’s old office.  It’s a warehouse size space with books sometimes two deep on the shelf.  If at first you don’t succeed, keep looking. I found the same title once under fiction, once under literature/classics, and once under some obscure heading.

I’m in bed early tonight but not before I read a short story by Eudora Welty. Jimmie and I started talking about her.  I told her that one of the guests at Carolina B&B was introduced to me as her nephew.  He certainly was the right age for that. I told Jimmie that I disliked her books – I find them almost unreadable – but really like her photos.  Jimmie was fortunate enough to get to hear her do readings while at Milsaps and even once in Greensboro and she had the similar opinion until she heard her read her short stories.

Growing up we had to read her at school because she was a Mississippi writer and we both agreed we didn’t realize she was nationally known until after college.

To this day, when people not from Mississippi find out that I was originally from there, they don’t ask me if I read Faulkner, Stark Young, Tennessee Williams, but have I read Welty. I’m going to start with Jimmie’s recommendation “Why I Live at the P.O.” I’ll see if 46 years makes a difference in my opinion.

A Visit with the Bilbrays

29 April 2016

I arose to a gourmet breakfast at the guest house.  Freshly squeezed orange juice, blackberries in a white wine-basil infusion that had been reduced with cream on top.  Next was a broccoli and bacon/egg omelet accompanied with blood orange roasted asparagus and followed by a home made bran and apricot muffin.  I never want to leave!

In any case, I programmed Reed and Sandra’s address into my gps and met the family. First up was Biscuit, the dog and then the very mature 3 year old twins, Sydney and Riley and finally, Sandra and Sandra’s mother Katherine. Unfortunately both Joyce and Alfred were down with colds and couldn’t join us.

We piled into two cars and headed for DuPont State Forest to do a short loop hike to see waterfalls and indulge my passion for photographing plants.

First up was Triple Falls, a series of three impressive falls about 0.3 miles into the loop.  The state built a series of steps down to a viewing area.  You could see the uppermost two falls and then look behind you to see the third fall cascading down.

Triple Falls, DuPont State Forest, Asheville, N.C.
Triple Falls, DuPont State Forest, Asheville, N.C.

Next was the High Falls, aptly named. The twins reveled in putting their feet in the very cool water, watching for butterflies, and making sure Reed and Sandra and Katherine and me were watching their moves.

High Falls, DuPont State Forest, Asheville, NC
High Falls, DuPont State Forest, Asheville, NC

These three year olds hiked like pros! There was some piggyback riding but they walked the majority of the distance.
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We then loaded up and had lunch at the Sierra Nevada Brewing Company, a massive facility near the Asheville airport.  They very capably cater to kids with an outdoor play area and sandbox and fountains.

From there, we went to Reed’s new enterprise Zaniac, an after school facility to stimulate interest in STEM (Science, Technology, Engineering, and Math. Sandra and Reed recently held the grand opening.  Elementary and Junior high students are first pre-tested for math skills and then placed according to a 12 step program.  The goal is to get them math proficient (the 12th step) which would be equivalent to a college freshman.  Tied to that are various technology, computer, design programs to stimulate interest in STEM.  They even have a 3-D printer.  I think it’s a great concept.

I returned to the guest house and relaxed a little, showered, dressed and made it to the wine social at 5:30 pm and met a delightful couple from the UK who come to the states once a year to explore.

A little after 6 I headed to the historic Grove Park Inn on a bluff overlooking Asheville to meet the family for dinner.  This is where Reed and Sandra got engaged and I can see why Reed chose the spot to propose.

Grove Park Hotel, Asheville, N.C.
Grove Park Hotel, Asheville, N.C.

Dinner was great and the twins got their second wind.  As the twins entered the hotel, they were each presented, by the concierge, a backpack filled with goodies: crayons, coloring book, stickers, drinking straws, etc.  What a great idea.  They colored and had a wonderful time.  All the restaurants in the hotel overlook the valley and the view was spectacular.

View from the terrace at the historic Grove Park Inn, Asheville, NC.
View from the terrace at the historic Grove Park Inn, Asheville, NC.

This was a great visit to see and old friend, meet new family, and rehash old times.  Although I didn’t get to see Joyce and Alfred, I talked to them by phone.  Reed wouldn’t let me pay for anything. It has been too long since we’ve seen each other and we promised it wouldn’t be so long next time.  Hopefully, they will plan a visit to Fort Lauderdale and I did promise to take Katherine to Key West!

Asheville

28 April 2016

I awoke this morning in a cloud of fog.  Literally.  I was fogged in. I had the foresight to purchase a breakfast sandwich from the Pine Mountain Subway the night before so I zapped it in the microwave and had breakfast in the fog on the cabin deck.

I made it out of the cabin and park by 9 am and headed straight to Asheville. I stopped at the REI store on the outskirts of Asheville to have my form fitting hip belt on my Osprey pack heated and fitted.  This is some store.  There were at least 12 people waiting on cashiers when I went in.  It’s a two story affair and packed with dream goodies.  I behaved myself and walked out of there for under $30.

A guy took care of me right away.  There’s a machine they heat up the foam of the hip belt.  He took the belt off the pack, inserted it into a preheated machine and we timed 9 minutes. I then put on only the hip belt and walked around the store. I think that’s the plan all along. You tend to purchase items while you wait for the belt to conform to your shape and for the belt to cool into that shape. In any case, the heat fixing was free of charge. Better yet, he put the belt back on the pack so I wouldn’t screw it up.

I’m staying at the Carolina Bed and Breakfast at 177 Cumberland Avenue near the city center.  My room is done up in red and called the Cardinal Room.  Susan and James are my hostesses and they have gone out of my way to make me feel welcome.

Carolina Bed & Breakfast, Asheville, NC.
Carolina Bed & Breakfast, Asheville, NC.
The Cardinal Room at Carolina Bed & Breakfast.
The Cardinal Room at Carolina Bed & Breakfast.

My main reason for stopping in Asheville is to see Reed and his Mom Joyce.  Reed was a Boy Scout in a troop in New Orleans that I volunteered as an assistant scoutmaster while in the Coast Guard from 1972-1974. His Mom, and Dad (conveniently named Fred) literally adopted me during my military stay at the Coast Guard Communications Station in Belle Chase.  I think I ate more meals at their house than I did on the station’s mess deck.
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When Reed made Eagle several years later, I was teaching at Itawamba Junior College in Fulton, MS. I sent him my old Eagle pin.  It was worn and dirty but he was nice enough to use it during his Eagle ceremony.

I called Reed when I settled into the room and the plans are to meet him and his wife Sara and their twin girls along with Reed’s mom, Joyce, and Alfred, her husband, tomorrow.  As we talked, I realized the last time I saw Reed was when I was teaching at Itawamba Junior College when he and his college buddies were on their way to hike in the Smokies. That was about 35 years ago.  I’m sure we both look the same.

Joyce and Alfred stopped by Fort Lauderdale many years ago when they were catching a cruise ship. I got to visit with them for a few hours during that trip, so it’ll be wonderful to see everyone again and catch up on our lives.

James, our host, recommended Zampras for dinner.  It is a tapas place with eclectic decor, almost Moorish. The tapas were ok but the martini and wine were excellent.  Freakishly, someone came by the bar and said the bar was donating 20% of your check for AIDS and provided an envelope if you wished to donate more. I did.  Last night, Sari emailed me that her brother Rob Nathans had passed away from AIDS related complications.  Rob was a good and great friend, a talented artist, and someone who came into my life when I needed a friend.  He will be missed.  This is the second death in the last two weeks. My hiking buddy from graduate school days, Charlie Cooper passed away.  It makes me worry about the old Southern idea of death occurs in threes.

I met a young lady at the bar who was into plants.  She introduced herself after she heard me explain about Rob to the person bringing the envelopes around.  We discussed AIDS, plants, and Asheville and had a wonderful time.

I then walked to a used book store that served champagne.  What a civilized way to sell used books! They also donated 20% for AIDS. I had a glass of champagne  and had an interesting conversation with the wait staff. I pretty much staggered home and climbed into bed. I like Asheville a lot.