Travels with Fred – Page 85 – Just another blog.

Greensboro

30 April 2016

Ah, breakfast! Freshly sliced pineapple dusted with fresh (I suspect from their garden) minced mint leaves. Susan is a wizard in pairing herbs and spices with foods you would not consider pairing. We all suffered through waffles made the night before with yeast and allowed to cool rise overnight. They were so light you had to hold them down on the plate with your knife while you ate with your fork. The strawberries and whipped cream weren’t heavy enough to do the job.

I packed and loaded the car and settled accounts with James and asked him to have Susan consider opening a restaurant in Fort Lauderdale. I was on the road by 9:30 am. I was about an hour into the drive to Greensboro when the phone rang. It was James. I had left by brand new backpacking camera in the room. He said he would send it to me in Fort Lauderdale. I had my backup camera and lenses in the car and I’m not backpacking any more on the trip so I can continue to photograph.

I pulled into Jimmie and Stephen’s driveway a little after one. Jimmie is my second cousin and one of three sisters. She is the youngest of the three and the one closest to my age and we grew up together in a small town called Morton. We did everything together and were pretty much inseparable including building tree houses, learning to play bridge from her Mom, to going to Tank Hill and sneaking up the town water tank which we would have paid dearly if anyone of our parents found out.

After settling in, we headed for Bicentennial Park and the adjacent bog. I got to take some neat photos and saw some old friends I hadn’t seen in years (plants, not people). In particular, I saw bloodroot which was used on the back over of my wildflower book. I love that plant! It has a single leaf and this time of year produces a single bloom with slender, white, finger-like petals that last only one day. At the end of the day, the petals fall off, and if pollinated, produces a simple fruit. You can guess the reason for the common name of the plant.
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Later, after returning home, we headed to a local Thai restaurant for a good dinner and then headed to a local used bookstore that used to be Stephen’s old office. It’s a warehouse size space with books sometimes two deep on the shelf. If at first you don’t succeed, keep looking. I found the same title once under fiction, once under literature/classics, and once under some obscure heading.

I’m in bed early tonight but not before I read a short story by Eudora Welty. Jimmie and I started talking about her. I told her that one of the guests at Carolina B&B was introduced to me as her nephew. He certainly was the right age for that. I told Jimmie that I disliked her books – I find them almost unreadable – but really like her photos. Jimmie was fortunate enough to get to hear her do readings while at Milsaps and even once in Greensboro and she had the similar opinion until she heard her read her short stories.

Growing up we had to read her at school because she was a Mississippi writer and we both agreed we didn’t realize she was nationally known until after college.

To this day, when people not from Mississippi find out that I was originally from there, they don’t ask me if I read Faulkner, Stark Young, Tennessee Williams, but have I read Welty. I’m going to start with Jimmie’s recommendation “Why I Live at the P.O.” I’ll see if 46 years makes a difference in my opinion.

A Visit with the Bilbrays

29 April 2016

I arose to a gourmet breakfast at the guest house. Freshly squeezed orange juice, blackberries in a white wine-basil infusion that had been reduced with cream on top. Next was a broccoli and bacon/egg omelet accompanied with blood orange roasted asparagus and followed by a home made bran and apricot muffin. I never want to leave!

In any case, I programmed Reed and Sandra’s address into my gps and met the family. First up was Biscuit, the dog and then the very mature 3 year old twins, Sydney and Riley and finally, Sandra and Sandra’s mother Katherine. Unfortunately both Joyce and Alfred were down with colds and couldn’t join us.

We piled into two cars and headed for DuPont State Forest to do a short loop hike to see waterfalls and indulge my passion for photographing plants.

First up was Triple Falls, a series of three impressive falls about 0.3 miles into the loop. The state built a series of steps down to a viewing area. You could see the uppermost two falls and then look behind you to see the third fall cascading down.

Triple Falls, DuPont State Forest, Asheville, N.C.

Next was the High Falls, aptly named. The twins reveled in putting their feet in the very cool water, watching for butterflies, and making sure Reed and Sandra and Katherine and me were watching their moves.

High Falls, DuPont State Forest, Asheville, NC

These three year olds hiked like pros! There was some piggyback riding but they walked the majority of the distance.
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We then loaded up and had lunch at the Sierra Nevada Brewing Company, a massive facility near the Asheville airport. They very capably cater to kids with an outdoor play area and sandbox and fountains.

From there, we went to Reed’s new enterprise Zaniac, an after school facility to stimulate interest in STEM (Science, Technology, Engineering, and Math. Sandra and Reed recently held the grand opening. Elementary and Junior high students are first pre-tested for math skills and then placed according to a 12 step program. The goal is to get them math proficient (the 12th step) which would be equivalent to a college freshman. Tied to that are various technology, computer, design programs to stimulate interest in STEM. They even have a 3-D printer. I think it’s a great concept.

I returned to the guest house and relaxed a little, showered, dressed and made it to the wine social at 5:30 pm and met a delightful couple from the UK who come to the states once a year to explore.

A little after 6 I headed to the historic Grove Park Inn on a bluff overlooking Asheville to meet the family for dinner. This is where Reed and Sandra got engaged and I can see why Reed chose the spot to propose.

Dinner was great and the twins got their second wind. As the twins entered the hotel, they were each presented, by the concierge, a backpack filled with goodies: crayons, coloring book, stickers, drinking straws, etc. What a great idea. They colored and had a wonderful time. All the restaurants in the hotel overlook the valley and the view was spectacular.

This was a great visit to see and old friend, meet new family, and rehash old times. Although I didn’t get to see Joyce and Alfred, I talked to them by phone. Reed wouldn’t let me pay for anything. It has been too long since we’ve seen each other and we promised it wouldn’t be so long next time. Hopefully, they will plan a visit to Fort Lauderdale and I did promise to take Katherine to Key West!

Asheville

28 April 2016

I awoke this morning in a cloud of fog. Literally. I was fogged in. I had the foresight to purchase a breakfast sandwich from the Pine Mountain Subway the night before so I zapped it in the microwave and had breakfast in the fog on the cabin deck.

I made it out of the cabin and park by 9 am and headed straight to Asheville. I stopped at the REI store on the outskirts of Asheville to have my form fitting hip belt on my Osprey pack heated and fitted. This is some store. There were at least 12 people waiting on cashiers when I went in. It’s a two story affair and packed with dream goodies. I behaved myself and walked out of there for under $30.

A guy took care of me right away. There’s a machine they heat up the foam of the hip belt. He took the belt off the pack, inserted it into a preheated machine and we timed 9 minutes. I then put on only the hip belt and walked around the store. I think that’s the plan all along. You tend to purchase items while you wait for the belt to conform to your shape and for the belt to cool into that shape. In any case, the heat fixing was free of charge. Better yet, he put the belt back on the pack so I wouldn’t screw it up.

I’m staying at the Carolina Bed and Breakfast at 177 Cumberland Avenue near the city center. My room is done up in red and called the Cardinal Room. Susan and James are my hostesses and they have gone out of my way to make me feel welcome.

Carolina Bed & Breakfast, Asheville, NC.

The Cardinal Room at Carolina Bed & Breakfast.

My main reason for stopping in Asheville is to see Reed and his Mom Joyce. Reed was a Boy Scout in a troop in New Orleans that I volunteered as an assistant scoutmaster while in the Coast Guard from 1972-1974. His Mom, and Dad (conveniently named Fred) literally adopted me during my military stay at the Coast Guard Communications Station in Belle Chase. I think I ate more meals at their house than I did on the station’s mess deck.
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When Reed made Eagle several years later, I was teaching at Itawamba Junior College in Fulton, MS. I sent him my old Eagle pin. It was worn and dirty but he was nice enough to use it during his Eagle ceremony.

I called Reed when I settled into the room and the plans are to meet him and his wife Sara and their twin girls along with Reed’s mom, Joyce, and Alfred, her husband, tomorrow. As we talked, I realized the last time I saw Reed was when I was teaching at Itawamba Junior College when he and his college buddies were on their way to hike in the Smokies. That was about 35 years ago. I’m sure we both look the same.

Joyce and Alfred stopped by Fort Lauderdale many years ago when they were catching a cruise ship. I got to visit with them for a few hours during that trip, so it’ll be wonderful to see everyone again and catch up on our lives.

James, our host, recommended Zampras for dinner. It is a tapas place with eclectic decor, almost Moorish. The tapas were ok but the martini and wine were excellent. Freakishly, someone came by the bar and said the bar was donating 20% of your check for AIDS and provided an envelope if you wished to donate more. I did. Last night, Sari emailed me that her brother Rob Nathans had passed away from AIDS related complications. Rob was a good and great friend, a talented artist, and someone who came into my life when I needed a friend. He will be missed. This is the second death in the last two weeks. My hiking buddy from graduate school days, Charlie Cooper passed away. It makes me worry about the old Southern idea of death occurs in threes.

I met a young lady at the bar who was into plants. She introduced herself after she heard me explain about Rob to the person bringing the envelopes around. We discussed AIDS, plants, and Asheville and had a wonderful time.

I then walked to a used book store that served champagne. What a civilized way to sell used books! They also donated 20% for AIDS. I had a glass of champagne and had an interesting conversation with the wait staff. I pretty much staggered home and climbed into bed. I like Asheville a lot.

Little White House and Wolfden Loop Trail

27 April 2016

I got a great night of sleep and got up around 5 am. I puttered around the cabin and then went out on the porch to watch the sunrise over the valley below.

I pitched the tent on the deck to let it dry out and then left for Warm Springs to see if there was someplace open for breakfast. Nothing! The town is very small with only a few buildings. Restaurants only opened for lunch or dinner.

On my way to Warm Springs, I drove to Dowdell’s Knob and took in the view. You can understand why Roosevelt liked the place. The statue of him looks over the valley.

FDR statue at Dowdell's Knob. — FDR statue at Dowdell’s Knob.

I drove around until 9 am when the Little White House was supposed to open and accidentally discovered the original pool used by FDR and those treated for polio. As I drove into the lot, the park ranger arrived. He was in a wheel chair and it was nice to see the state hires the handicapped. David introduced himself and we talked for a while, about the CCC, the New Deal, and what Roosevelt meant to the country. You could tell he wasn’t a fan of the current administration, nor did he think Roosevelt got the US out of the depression, but he was a big Roosevelt fan.

It was pretty emotional for me to tour the pool and the attached museum. They had an iron lung. People forget the devastation of polio and David and I got to talking how no one in their right mind thought mother’s collecting dimes would lead to anything. The pool is now drained and hasn’t been used since the 60’s but they had water bubbling like a fountain so you could test the temperature.

Admission was $10 for a senior and also entitled you to visit the Little White House. David suggested a back way that took you through the Warm Springs/Roosevelt institute. The place is massive.

By the time I got to the Little White House, bus loads of school kids had beat me there. The staff routed me around them. I got to see the house pretty much by myself along with a tour guide getting ready for the kids. The house looks small but is deceptively large.

Little White House, Warm Springs, Georgia.

A really poignant moment was seeing the desk at which Roosevelt had his stroke.

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Another great moment was seeing the unfinished portrait that was being done the moment of the stroke. That is in a separate exhibition hall. In talking with one of the personnel, Georgia has a plan to make all parks self sufficient. The Little White House has done so but there is only one full time person. Everyone else is part time or volunteer and they receive no benefits.

I returned to the cabin, packed my day pack with about 30 lbs and headed to the Wolfden Loop trail. It’s 6.7 miles and traverses a variety of terrains including 3 major waterfalls. I started a little after noon and finished the trail by 4:45 pm. I was pleased I completed the trail as a warm up for my Smokies trip. It gave me confidence I could do the Deep Springs/Martin Gap/Indian Creek loop. That entire trail is a little over 12 miles and I’ll have three days for it.

The Wolfden Trail is part of the 23 miles Pine Mountain Trail which is superbly maintained by the Pine Mountain Trail Association. The trail was very well marked and foot bridges were provided when ford crossing was too dangerous.

Regardless, I logged some 7 fords of streams with my trusty walking stick (50 years old – the stick, not me) to balance my way across.

The Mountain Laurel was in full bloom and often provided arbors over the trail. It was spectacular. I always have loved this plant. The stamens are inserted into the floral tube and when an insect lands to pollinate, they pop out of their pockets and powder the insect with pollen.

Mountain Laurel - Kalmia latifolia. It was everywhere! — Mountain Laurel – Kalmia latifolia. It was everywhere!

There was a good bit of climbing trail but the PMTA was good about using switchbacks so no trail was too steep. The increase in altitude was not great but you started out at around 1300 feet elevation.

Wildflowers were in profusion and the trail was not heavily used. I met a total of seven people and two dogs.

The water falls were especially nice. Cascade is the main fall most people hike to but the other two were equally nice.

I admit I was dragging towards the end. I made it back to the cabin, took a hot shower and headed to Pine Mountain and the Aspen Mountain Restaurant for a beer and a hot meal. It’s been a good day. Tomorrow is a drive to Asheville, NC.

Franklin D. Roosevelt State Park – Pine Mountain, GA

26 April 2016

The dawned cold! It was 59 F when I got out of the sleeping bag this morning. My bag is rated to 50 F as a comfort temperature but during the night I put on a pair of socks and a jacket. I dozed a little here and there between a visiting raccoon and the erudition of a few teenagers who saw the raccoon which then followed them for a handout. It’s good to know teenagers have mastered the use of the f**k word since they used it about 60 times in 60 minutes. The raccoon obviously has a pattern of visiting all the campsites looking for food. Eventually he and the teenagers went to bed and I got some sleep.

It was approximately a 7 1/2 hour drive with stops to Franklin D. Roosevelt State Park near Pine Mountain, GA. I phoned ahead in case the office was closed but made it around 4:15 pm. I checked in and went to the cabin.

Main office and welcome center of Franklin D. Roosevelt State Park.

The cabin is magnificent! It was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the 1930’s and has been restored. I have a massive stone fireplace in the bedroom and the kitchen.

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My porch overlooks the valley below. After this posting, I plan to have a glass of wine and watch the sun set.

My Dad was in the CCC and got the word he had been selected when as he was plowing 30 acres of bottomland in Pulaski, Ms. He said it saved him. They trained him as a cook until they realized he could play basketball and then put him on a team that traveled throughout the southeastern U.S.

Dad, second row, far right on the steps of the Parthenon in Nashville during basketball CCC days.

Tomorrow, I intend to do the Little White House tour in Warm Springs and then a day hike along some of the trails. FDR’s favorite place was Dowdell Knob and the trail is a 4.3 mile loop so I may do that. Supposedly the grill he used is at the site and there’s a statue of him at the overlook.

Blue Spring State Park

Continue reading “Blue Spring State Park”

Practice Makes Perfect

20 April 2016

I’m trying to get fit for the cross country trip this fall. I’ve picked up the pace with my morning walk, added 20 minutes to my swim time and have a trip planned to hike the Deep Creek Trail/Martin’s Gap Trail/Indian Creek Trail in the Great Smoky Mountains in May.

I’ve hiked a portion of the Deep Creek Trail. Actually, I’ve hiked a portion of several trails in the Smokies but have never completed most. The first time, Crag Knox and I tried to lug a 55 lb pack up Shuckstack Trail to Sassafras Gap. That never came to completion (and we were a lot younger then).

Next was Deep Creek. Charlie Cooper (who passed away this week) and I hiked to a point and then came down. We made our own loop.

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In all of these, I was 40 years younger and in much better shape. I think you can see I’m a little worried about how I’ll do out west with peaks in the 7,000 to 9,000 foot range. The highest point in the Smokies is Clingman’s dome at 6,643 feet.

I’ve decided to be proactive. Today, I loaded up the pack (as I would have packed for the Smokies trip with 40 lbs of gear and water). I then drove to the parking garage at the main library in downtown Fort Lauderdale and hiked up the five stories of the garage (14 flights of stair with 8 stairs per flight) 3 times. I intend to do this as often as I can before the Smokies trip. I probably should have started a little earlier but better late than never.

One great tip I learned from my Bugaboos adventure was how to step in high elevation when you are not used to the altitude. Take baby steps and as you place your foot, shift your weight forward and push up with your knee. This mitigates the stress you would put on your hips and your back and allows you to breathe a more normal rate. It works. I used it on the stairs today and was able to do more than I thought.

Bok Tower and Gardens

14 April 2016

It must have been at least 30 years ago I first visited Bok Tower and Gardens, probably during a trip to Mississippi to see my parents. I remember you could drive right to the gardens and walk a short distance to the tower. The gardens were nice but not terribly extensive. In 30 years, things have changed!

First, part of the tower has been renovated and it certainly looks better on the outside these days. I don’t remember being as impressed with it the first time. Second, the gardens are far more extensive and well maintained. They have provided numerous trails through the gardens and have added an old home to their control. There are at least three new buildings on the site. One is the welcome center, another is the garden shop and another is the cafe. They were busily installing a new children’s garden on this visit.

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On my first visit, I only heard the hour struck. Fortuitously, this visit I heard the concert on the carillon at 3 pm by Geert D’hollander, the tower’s fourth full time carillonneur. The tower has 60 bronze bells with the smallest weighing in at 16 lbs. and the largest over 11 tons. Overall the tower supports over 63 tons of bronze.

You can go into the Founder’s room on the ground floor (available four times a year) if you are a sustainer or above and Tower Club members can access the carillonneur’s studio and keyboard room and bell room. I’m none of those so I enjoyed the outside view.

The tower contains the Founder’s room, above it the Chao Research Center (archive), above that the maintenance workshop, above that the Anton Brees Carillon Library, above that the Carillonneur’s studio, above that the keyboard room and at the very top, the bells.

A Trip to Archbold

14 April 2016

Many years ago, Al Will, professor of botany on Central Campus of Broward College, introduced me to Archbold Biological Station near Lake Placid, Florida. It got to where I took students twice a year for field trips for many years. The staff and researchers were always very accommodating and they had a library my students flocked to for their research papers. You could stay overnight either in their dormitory or cabins and they also had breakfast, lunch and dinner available for a nominal price – one that students and professors could afford.

The station was founded by Richard Archbold who came into possession through John A. Roebling II, grandson of the designer and builder of the Brooklyn Bridge. Roebling wanted to construct his wife a home on the grounds of the original 1000 acres but she died before construction began. In order to build the home, he previously constructed the warehouses to hold the materials. Roebling was concerned about hurricanes so he built the warehouse to withstand anything mother nature could throw at it. I think the walls are 12 inches of reinforced concrete. It’s the original warehouse that served as Richard Archbold’s research base.

Archbold was what most explorers wish they could be – independently wealthy – so he could fund, quite lavishly, his explorations. He ran the research station from 1941 until his death in 1976. The research station is now run by a board and has a full complement of research scientists, either in residence on the station or nearby.

Students loved the place almost as much as I did. It has been about 15 years since I was last at the station and much has changed. They have several new buildings (a welcome center and a new dormitory) and have revamped most of the trails. I walked the newly revamped nature trail and did some of my photography of plants native to the Lake Wales Ridge. Several parts of the trail had been recently exposed to controlled burning to renew the native vegetation (Archbold has its own 1940’s era fire truck that I assume is still used during the controlled burning).
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1940's era firetruck used in controlled burns at Archbold. — 1940’s era firetruck used in controlled burns at Archbold.

I was especially delighted to see in bloom some species that I generally didn’t get to see during my field trips to the station because of the difference in seasons.

Asimina obovata (Scrub Pawpaw) Produces a banana-like fruit from the flower often eaten by gopher tortoises and bears. — Asimina obovata (Scrub Pawpaw)
Produces a banana-like fruit from the flower often eaten by gopher tortoises and bears.

Opuntia humifusa (Raf.) Raf. - Pricklypear Cactus — Opuntia humifusa (Raf.) Raf. – Pricklypear Cactus

The research station is noted for its studies on Florida scrub jays. They thrive in the scrub oak communities on the Lake Wales Ridge. Unlike a lot of birds, these mate for life and actually live in communities of extended families – sisters, brothers, cousins, etc. They have no fear of humans and it is not uncommon to be walking the trails and one land on you to see what you are up to. Alas, it was breeding season and several areas I use to go were off limits. I didn’t see any this trip.

All day visitors are welcome. Simply sign in at the welcome center or the main office. It’s worth the trip!

A Little Traveling Music

March 30, 2016

It rained all night. When it quit raining, it continued dripping off the live oaks. I’m one of those people that can’t sleep if someone is out on the street talking, even in low voices but can sleep through storms. I especially like rain on tents. I will not say I slept all through the night but got enough sleep that I felt pretty good all day.

This trip was to shake out any bugs that I may not have thought of and I found a few things I would do differently. However, let me say up front I love my tent, my mid-temperature range sleeping bag, the air mattress, the air pillow, and the sleeping bag insert (like a bed sheet). I also am in love with my jetboil stove.

Air mattresses have come a long way from the first time I tried to sleep on one. This one has two separate sides and you blow each up individually. I was dreading the huffing and puffing but both sides inflated very quickly and surprisingly, stayed inflated all night long. It rolls up into a cylinder a little larger than a typical aluminum can of food. The pillow was also a surprise. It was perfect for my needs and it rolls up into the size of an A battery.

Here’s what I learned.

Bring a pen and a pencil (and while you’re at it, some paper). You’ll eventually need it.
Not all dehydrated meals are created equal. Dinner was a breeze. You rip off the top of the packet, pour boiling water into it, reseal and wait. Voilà, Spanish rice. The huevos rancheros for breakfast was a bust. You start the same – rip off the top, add boiling water, unable to reseal but wait. Then you cook the eggs in a nonstick pan. Luckily, the stove I have has attached a nonstick cooking surface. You were to wait anywhere from 10 to 30 minutes so the beans could soak up enough water to become tender. Didn’t happen. You really need to read the instructions on each meal before you decide to purchase it or use it. Even though meals are made by the same company, different meals are prepared in different ways.
Dehydrated food, comme vous le dites, has a peculiar effect on fecal development. I knew this but had forgotten it. You tend to be a little runny with a diet of nothing but dehydrated food. Fortunately, there was a port-a-potty at the campsite.
Breakfast would be better done using something to simply boil, such as oatmeal or cereal. The simpler the better.
Starbucks makes some pretty good instant coffee packets.
You can never have enough camera batteries. I didn’t and I could have charged them in the jeep since it has a regular 110v plug but I left the battery charger at home. I ran out of juice later in the day.
Even if you bring bear spray, you need to remember to carry it with you on day hikes. I didn’t remember and ran into some bear signs on the trail I hiked this day. Really dumb!
Caution!
Did I tell you I forgot my walking stick? I made extensive lists, including the walking stick, but forgot to put it in the jeep.
Boots are best left outside (unless you are in porcupine territory). Loosen the up before you get in the tent and as you get in, take them off. It saves cleanup afterward.
You can never carry enough water. You’ll always need more. Always take advantage of any you find.
Bear bells are not loud enough.

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The trail is fairly well marked and I took a lot of photographs. It was nice to see wild magnolias in the woods and an old friend of mine Polygala nana, one of my favorites. It’s commonly called candyroot or low bachelors’ buttons. It has beautiful yellow flowers that when dried, loose all coloration. There is a possibility the species is P. rugelii but I had no way of telling in the field.

Polygala nana (low batchelors' buttons) — Polygala nana (low batchelors’ buttons)

A word of caution if you go. It’s a nice trail but you do walk through bear country. Also, they have a couple of “bridges” which are more like planked walkways. They get covered over in slime and are quite slippery. You would be better walking in the ditch instead of the bridge.

I did see a white tail deer just as I emerged from the end of the trail and as I got in the jeep and traveled to DeLeon Springs State Park, a wild turkey crossed the road.

The trip to DeLeon Springs State Park was interesting. It’s a natural spring that comes out of the ground and spills over into the waters that lead to the St. Johns River. They were offering scuba lessons when I arrived. The main swimming area is over 30 feet deep so it is perfect for scuba instruction.

I took the $14 boat ride down the river and back. We saw manatee and osprey in abundance and everyone was excited about the alligators but you see more in the Everglades.

I walked their nature trail and that’s when I lost all battery power. They have a short loop of a trail and a more extensive 4 mile loop that takes at least 3 hours. You have to register with the ranger for that trail, so I didn’t do it but it’s a possible for a future date.

Since I was low on battery power, I decided to forgo the extra night and drove home that afternoon. Unfortunately, every route was blocked with traffic jams due to rain. It took me over 6 hours to get back home.