Month: July 2024

10 July 2024

Let me show you what I found when I came down for breakfast this morning.

Those are real candles, real china, real pewter. I was really taken aback. As you can tell, I was the only guest last night. There are only 3 rooms in the inn. Breakfast started with a fruit salad (not the canned kind) with a huge muffin that I guiltily ate every bit, then a Spanish omelet. Janet kept coming in and pouring coffee. There’s a bell on the table I was supposed to ring to summon her.

Janet had recommended I should visit the Revolutionary War Park for my first stop in Camden. It was actually my second. I remembered to return the room key to the Black Dolphin by stopping in at the post office.

The Park is relatively new – only 3 years old. It’s a beginning brought about by non-profits, local volunteers and donors, and the local community college. It’s impressive.

There is an exhibit building and as I walked in I was greeted by Eileen who proceeded to give me a personal guided tour. This docent knew her history. I had studied about Camden in a college course entitled “The History of the American Revolution.” Since college days, I have read one or two books about the southern campaign. From what I remembered, she nailed everything correctly.

Eileen pointed out I could purchase tickets here for the Kershaw house up the hill. Then the person who ran the gift shop gave me several additional tips including the GPS address of the Camden Battlefield.

As I let the place and headed to the next gift shop, I met a docent that gave me further information. As I walked out, I found a functioning blacksmith shop.

This was Mr. Hollis. As we got to talking we realized we had something in common. He started teaching American History at (then) Memphis State University in 1966, my freshman year at Ole Miss. We, of course, discussed football. I also mentioned my grandfather had a small blacksmith shop at his home in Pulaski. Meeting and talking with him was a treat.

It was pointed out I could park closer to the Kershaw house by moving my Jeep to another parking lot. As I started my walk to the house, the docent from the second gift shop came behind me in a golf cart and offered me a ride. I was thrilled. I was huffing and puffing up a minor hill. When we got there, he left the golf cart for me to use to return to the village.

After climbing the steps of the Kershaw house, I experience dizziness again and actually had to grab a hold of an antique trunk to keep from falling.

The docent inside the Kershaw house was equally knowledgeable about the house and the period. Joseph Kershaw built the house circa 1778 and before he could really occupy it, Lord Cornwallis used it for his base for the Southern Theater. Camden is the oldest inland town in South Carolina, founded in 1750 and was an important crossroads between the “West” and the “East.”

Cornwallis sent Kershaw to prison in the Caribbean. During the Civil War, supposedly the house was burned by the confederates to prevent it falling into the hands of the union soldiers. The beginnings of the Park begin in the 1960’s when the town came together and spurred the historical aspects of Camden. In digging on the site, they found the original foundation of the Kershaw house and what you see today is a perfect replica on the outside – since they had a photograph from the 1860’s. The interior is based on typical homes of the period.

When they started the reconstruction, they found some of the original bricks dating back to the 1770’s. The basement is paved with them.

I’ve never driven a golf cart before. The docent at the Kershaw building gave me a quick tutorial and I made my way back to the other buildings in the park.

Included in the park are several other buildings. There is McCaa’s tavern which was the office for Dr.John McCaa who combined medicine with tavern keeper. Handy, don’t you think?

Another interesting building was Bonds Conway house. He was a slave who became very adept at carpentry. He eventually made enough money to purchase his freedom and was the first slave in South Carolina to do so. He continued to thrive and to this day his descendants return to the house to celebrate his life.

From the park, I headed to the Camden Battlefield, one of the worst losses for the Continental and volunteer army of the war. For the year the battle was fought, the deaths represented 37% of the total American soldiers lost that year. It was in 1780 when Lorn Cornwallis’ 2000 troop met Horatio Gates’ (hero of Saratoga) 4000 troops and destroyed them. Gates left the battlefield early and a lot fell on the shoulders of a Prussian officer commissioned in the Continental Army. He was mortally wounded in leading his troops against the British.

Cornwallis won the day decisively but Gates was replaced by Nathaniel Greene who eventually chased Cornwallis to Charleston and I think you know how that ended. That’s why you have a lot of towns and counties named DeKalb and Greene.

The battlefield was exceptionally poorly marked. There were only seldom traveled dirt roads that were overgrown. Compared to the park, this needs a lot of work.

Camden has embraced their history in the revolutionary war and is doing a great job. Downtown is thriving, there’s a lot of entrepreneurial people in town and it’s making a difference.

Dinner tonight was at Sam Kendall’s on the main drag.

I sat at the bar and had a lemonade and a pear salad. When the bartender brought it out, it had no pears. She was terribly embarrassed and quickly brought me the pears. Apparently they have a new apprentice in the kitchen and he failed to put pears in a pear salad. They offered me a free desert but I turned it down – remember I’m trying to lower my sugar intake.

Tomorrow I head to Boone, NC, around a 4 hour trip to visit my friend and former colleague, Terry. He and his wife retired to Boone years ago. Terry and I mostly laugh when we get around each other. We seem to feed off each other and it’s a rollicking good time. I’ll leave from Terry’s house to go to Banner Elk, about a 40 minute drive where I’ll stay at the Lodge at River Run.

Stay tuned!

9 July 2024

I was out of bed at 6 am and the Jeep packed by 7:30. I noticed I was out of breath bringing the stuff down from the room and loading the jeep. Breakfast wasn’t until 8 but I asked the chef if he would serve me early and he agreed.

It was delicious with one exception. The blackberries had absolutely no taste. The drizzle of honey was a nice touch. I overheard a conversation that the chef had a new son. I gave him a tip and congratulated him and then commiserated with his future lack of sleep.

I had no soon turned the corner from the guest house than the tire low air pressure light came on. How did we exist without tire pressure sensors? I went ahead and started north on I-95 thinking I would pull over at the first rest stop and put air in the tires with my electric pump. It took a while for the first rest stop.

As I started putting air into the tires, I realized I was getting light headed. For each tire, I had to sit down and rest before moving to the next tire. I finally got all four inflated to their maximum and got on my way. It was then I realized I had not taken my insulin dose. Next rest stop I shot up with insulin. At least I remembered my morning pills. I also called the Black Dolphin and told them I had run off with their room key and would mail it back to them when I got to a post office. Memory is iffy these days.

I used my GPS to get me to Camden. I kept noticing it said I was 3 hours and 6 minutes away – for the next 100 miles. Something went crazy with the GPS ETA. I pulled into Four Oaks around 3:30 and promptly met Janet.

Janet is a stickler for procedure but maybe that’s why she doesn’t have memory problems. I had to sign in and then she brought me a complimentary Cherry Bounce aperitif favored by George Washington. It’s said he took some with him on his campaigns during the Revolutionary War and the recipe is supposedly from Martha’s recipe. A bottle is only $35. It actually is quite good.

The entry way is quite nice and when I looked, I immediately dreaded the stairs with my suitcase. That was a lot of stairs.

The common area was quite spectacular. It’s like we are in a home of some rich person during the Revolutionary War which apparently was Janet’s intention. She carried it out well.

I mentioned my problem with the stairs and had to go into an explanation about my chemo and lack of energy. She said no problem, there’s a elevator!

It supposedly will hold one person but I simply put my luggage in it and sent it to the second floor. To the right of the elevator are free snacks, soft drinks and water along with some really good chocolate chip cookies.

My room is the Steeplechase room.

The fireplace is a gas one and she suggested I might want it lit if for nothing else than the atmosphere.

The bathroom is a hoot!

In my current condition, I don’t think I could get in or out of the clawfoot tub but the shower is nice and roomy and I don’t have to step as high.

I even have my own private balcony.

It’s a little hot to sit out there right now. However, behind the house is a pool!

Janet went over a list of features in the room and then a list of eateries. I chose Salud for tonight’s meal. It was pretty good. I had their guacamole and enchiladas verde.

Downtown Camden is thriving. Unlike most small downtown areas which have numerous shops closed, this place didn’t have any empty storefronts.

They’ve even stayed true to the architectural style of the past.

You’ll see the image of the Indian shooting his bow and arrow a lot around time. This impressive building is City Hall.

I have to admit I’m concerned about the light headedness that seems to dog me with any physical exertion. The bending down to put air in the tires really kicked my butt with the dizziness. So did the simple act of removing the suitcase from the Jeep and getting it to the elevator. My question is it due to (1) medicines I’m taking (2) the Herceptin lingering or (3) my heart. Dr. Velez’ nurse did call me this afternoon and tell me to start taking some ferrous sulfate since I was low on my iron blood test. I’ll look around town for a pharmacy. Another damn pill! If my iron level doesn’t come up, it’s back to infusions.

Tomorrow I intend to give Camden a good look over. Janet made suggestions. Camden isn’t hung up on the Civil War. They are trying to push their Revolutionary War history.

Stay tuned!

8 July 2024

The omens are stacking up. I managed to fall twice in two days. Yesterday was going up the stairs to my room. Today was the step down from the bathroom into the bedroom. And yes, I hurt my ankle the second time. I took it on the chin as well when I hit the dresser with my lower jaw. I also seemed to tear some skin on my arm and it bled like crazy until I could get to the Jeep and pull out my first aid kit. To top it off, New Smyrna Beach has had two shark attacks this past week. I don’t think I’ll go in the water.

Last night, I had dinner at Riverpark Terrace, recommended by Taylor. It was a 0.5 mile walk and I was tired when I got there. I was hungry so I had their Steak au poivre with French mashed potatoes and haricot verts. It was really good. I chased it down with a local beer. I splurged and got dessert, coconut cream pie which was really more like a coconut cheesecake but good none-the-less.

While making my 0.5 mile walk along the Indian River, I noticed the houses were decked out in American flags and bunting. I also noticed that many of them had a Key West vibe.

This one had a side porch that was so tempting, I almost knocked on the door to ask if I could sit awhile. It was perfect with a wonderful breeze and shaded from the western sun.

As I approached the Black Dolphin, I noticed that I was running for re-election as mayor of New Smyrna Beach. My PAC needs to let me know these things.

I slept OK last night. I don’t think I got up any more times than I would at home. The bed was comfortable and the sheets were luxurious. The Black Dolphin is showing its age in some of the public areas but the finishings are top notch. My shower had tiny glass tiles along the base of the tub and all up the wall. The only thing is the tub is a jacuzzi but it doesn’t work. They’ve put a very nice manufactured sign (with Black Dolphins on it) that it is a soaking tub only.

I had it wrong yesterday. Breckie was French toast with apple and peach compote, a ham slice, fruit and orange juice. I saw someone with a take out tray heading to my room and realized she was going to bring breakfast to my room. I called her back down. There’s no place to eat in my room and I have no idea why they would do that. I prefer eating at a table anyway.

In my relaxed way of packing yesterday, I thought I had thought of everything. However, I failed to pack my insulin pen that still had doses in it. I packed the needles, the alcohol pads, and even a second pen that I had to keep refrigerated but not the one I wanted to finish up. I quickly unchilled the new pen and did my injection today with that one.

I’m swearing off sugar. I’ve been overdoing it with the Tootsie roll minis. I got a side look at myself in the mirror and was stunned. Just call me Buddha belly from now on.

What do you do in New Smyrna Beach? I decided you go to the beach. There’s limited access and when you find access is $20 for all day parking and you pay for all day. There is not 2 hour parking.

New Smyrna Beach and Daytona Beach are about the only ones left you can drive on. The sand is not loose but very packed. You could jog on this all day and not get bogged down with loose sand grabbing at your feet.

The homes all along the highway have kind of a wackadoodle architectural style and palette. I have a feeling the planning commission has a laissez faire attitude to zoning laws and architectural plans.

I decided to drive the length of the barrier island on A1A. Little did I know it turned into Canaveral National Seashore. Duh! Of course, I left my national park pass in my suitcase and had to pay $20 for admission. The park service can use the money.

The road reminded me of traveling to Flamingo in the Everglades. There are five parking places on the drive to the end of the park and the end of A1A. I pulled off several times to take wildflower photos. I’m sure that is a surprise for you.

Along the way was the Eldoro House. It’s the last remaining house of the heyday of the community of Eldoro, the playground of the rich and famous in the early 1900’s.

Back on the road, it’s when you get to parking area five you have to be careful.

To be honest, I didn’t realize any federal lands allowed nudity. Parking area five’s boardwalk certainly had some nudity. Most were trucks so I assume they were rednecks. However, more than their necks were red.

From Canaveral National Seashore, I traveled back into town and got on US 1 and passed through Edgewater and Oak Hill on my way to Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge. It was a long haul down US1 and then off on FL3. As I got closer to what I thought was the end, I realized in the distance was the Vehicle Assembly Building of Cape Canaveral. It was huge even from a distance.

I finally pulled up to a gate and realized I was about to trespass on the non-public area of the Kennedy Space Center. The guard took my license and kept it as he made sure I turned around.

I then headed to the visitors center of Merritt Island and found it was closed on Mondays. Oh well. There wasn’t really anything to see but more area like the Everglades.

I headed back to New Smyrna Beach and filled up with diesel for tomorrow and stopped in an auto store to get some DieselClean since I was out. I then found the historic part of town.

It looked like a pretty vibrant area. New Smyrna is the second oldest town in Florida, behind Saint Augustine.

I stopped in at the Yellow Dog Eats Bar and Cafe for a pulled pork sandwich with Cole slaw. The Cole slaw was some of the best I’ve eaten. The pulled pork was good.

Tomorrow I head to Camden, South Carolina for two nights at the Four Oaks Inn. It’s about a 7 hour drive.

Stay tuned!

As I mentioned, I’ve had it with doctors, procedures, tests etc. and I felt the need to get away from all of it for a period of time. It’s not like I’m going to be a life long patient for several physicians. It’s a strange trip hop scotching from one BandB to another. I just decided to wander a while.

I got a late start, on purpose, because it was only a 3 1/2 hour drive to my first BandB/Inn, the Black Dolphin. I finally got everything packed into the Jeep and left the house around 11 am. It was kind of nice to not be in a hurry and worry about traffic on I-95. The drivers weren’t too crazy and not too angry at me going the speed limit.

One thing I noticed on the way to New Smyrna Beach was the number of Sabal palms along I-95 and how many of them were in bloom. I should have stopped and taken a photo because it was really an amazing sight.

I pulled into the circular drive of the Black Dolphin just before 3 pm and met Taylor who was valet parking a car. He said he’d meet me at the front desk to check in.

Taylor provided a short tour of the facility and the first come, first serve parking and then my room.

He asked if I needed any help with anything and I said yes, my suitcase. I pulled it out for him and started to take my coolers and satchel up and promptly face planted on the steps to my room (I’m on the second floor). Yes, I irritated my ankle a little with the face plant.

The room is very nice.

I even have a Juliette balcony on the north side but I don’t think I’ll spend much time out there. It didn’t seem too sturdy.

The lobby and the kitchen are together. Upon checking in, you are asked what time you want breakfast and then what you want. I had three options: eggs, bacon, toast; waffle with fruit, and granola and fruit. I chose the waffle. Their menu looked pretty gourmet.

The Black Dolphin is on the Indian River. There’s a nice view from the front balcony of the hotel (a lot more substantial than mine).

The host who greeted me is named Taylor which is my middle name. It seems there is another guest whose middle name is also Taylor.

Anyway, Taylor recommended some restaurants close by so I’ll probably walk down that way a little later and get some dinner. Lunch was apples, turnips, carrots, and Snickers minis.

Taylor suggests staying off the road to the beach until tomorrow. As I was driving in, they had signs telling everyone the beach parking was full. Monday should be better because everyone partying for the 4th will be gone.

Stay tuned!